Just wondering, awhile back i remember seeing a write up with pics on doing the conversion. I've been looking for about 3hrs now (tried searching etc) and have come up empty handed..
Anyone out there have pics of it (step-by-step, or complete, etc) or know of the writeup with the pics?
Thanks
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
Hey Magik1109,
Could you send me the pics, info, or a link too? I've been looking for info on the specifics of the balance shaft removal / 2.3L oil pump swap and I can never find anything decent.
Thanks for any help!
2000 z24
1985 z28
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/825536
thanks for the email, still seems unclear on the drilling though, in that email it basically said that you have to sleeve the hole you drill b/c you have to go out of the block then back in to the oul gally? this cant be right....
i always thought you could drill straight down or at a slight angle to the #5main?
_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
yeah, but this is info i got over time on here and i havent done it yet. I had this in mind since a while, but now i think its too risky and dont wanna let someone try this so i decided to go with the JBP high pressure oil pump instead! it won free up the 10-15HP from taking the balance shaft out, but will still provide good pressure on high rmp!
I've got a ton of pics of the swap, from 2 different ways...... and a write up for both ways.....
its alot to email, so if you can catch me on aim, I'll give you the pics
Quote:
2.3 oil pump install (Method 1)
You need:
a pre-95 oil pump
crank drive gear
windage tray
oil pickup
bolts for pump
1/8, 1/4, 3/8 npt pipe plugs
2 3/16" (approx. haven't measured yet) dowel pins
1/2" (at minimum) drill bits
The pump will bolt on to the block in existing 10mm bolt holes. The pump is
designed to be located and sturdied by 2 3/16"ish dowels which will have to
be drilled for. The drive gear for the balance shaft chain simply presses
off and the old style gear presses on. Oil passages for this are
non-existent and WILL HAVE TO BE DRILLED. I have seen several different ways
of doing this. One is to drill a hole from the pump outlet straight to the
main oil gallery and press in a tube because it goes throught the outside of
the block (tends to leak). My way is to drill a hole straight down (up) into
the block towards the head about 1 3/4" deep. Then drill another hole
diagonally from the edge outside of the main cap to the Main Gallery and tap
for 1/2"NPT pipe plug to close end. Other ways I've seen aren't worth
mentioning. Next you will have to tap 3 holes in the bottom of the block for
pipe plugs. These holes were for the original pump outlet and 2 balance
shaft oil feed holes. Next the windage should be installed. I cant give
specifics for that, just make it fit. You can run without it, but oil will
be well aerated. Finally, the oil pan will need some fabrication to clear
the pump and pickup properly.
I have seen it done on other cars. Other than oil leaks from other ways of
doing the oil passage, it works perfect.
No, I do not have this installed in a running car yet, myself. I will by
next weekend though.
NPT stands for National Pipe Thread. Its a tapered thread. Bolt sizes are by
the thread size, i.e. 3/8 x16 NC, 10mm x 1.5 NC, 1/8 x 27 NPT. NC=National
Course, NF National Fine and then NPT. NPT is the only one that tapers. NPT
plugs are available at any hardware store.
The holes to plug are open in pic 13 and plugged in 18. The one below the #4
main is 3/8"NPT. The one above #3 main is 1/8NPT. The one below #3 main is
1/4NPT. This hole is already tapped for a 14mm bolt which is really close to
1/4NPT, so I staked it with a chisel around the edge to be sure it stays
put.
So there is one picture is of the block where the passages are NOT plugged
and one is where they are plugged, and one to show you where they are
plugged in the case you get lost there.
If you have an access to the block and you can take a look at it you will
see what I am talking about in these pics if not, it is kinda hard to
picture it.
In the 1st picture this is the way you are suppose to dill at #5 main cap .
(if you mount the pump you will see on the bottom of the pump where the hole
is suppose to be, so drilling it just like the 1st picture says.)
1st you drill down about 1,3/4 inch and then through the edge of the cap
towards the factoy main oil gallery passage. Once you are done the edge
needs to be welder shut.
(Hint: If you look at that big hole at #4 main that you have to plug off,
that is the feed hole for the old one, and it drops down and then it goes
right towards the oil filter)
That is how your new hole is suppose to go towrds the oil filter.
White are non existent on your block and you have to drill them for the
pump.
Where the arrows point , you have to plug those off with the pipe plugs or
weld shut.
Green holes are already there and they are goin to hold your windage tray.
Blue holes are also for your windage tray, but your have to make them.
I hope the drawing helps.
Besides this work you are goin to need the pump
crank gear
pick up tube
2 bolts that hold pick up and pump together
Bracket that holds the pump
bolt that holds pick up and bracket.
Windage tray (cut it up a little to fit the block)
Modify you pan to fit the pump.
Oil pan gasket
Might need to shim the pump for the backlash, but they include the shims
with the pump.
And NO it doesn't matter weather the pump is from a Vin A,D or, 3.
Mine is from a 92 Achieva LO and so is the gear.
PART #'s
22531309 Pump Gear
22540199 Screen bolt
22536409 Baffle
24570677 Support Brace
22542521 Stud
22535081 Nut
11516802 Bolt
22539133 PumpScreen/Pickup*
11514149 Bolt
Quote:
2.3 Oil Pump Conversion For the 2.4 Twin Cam (Method 2)
Here is the how to for doing the 2.3 oil pump conversion, so that hopefully all those who search from hereon will find something solid.
The how to comes from Mantapart (thanks Tim) and it seems to work.
Parts Needed
2.3L Pump: 24571299
Crank Gear for the pump: 22531309 ($46.40)
Windage Tray: 22536409 ($8.11)
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2 ($.62)
Baffle Bolt: 22540299 x2
Oil Pick Assembly: 22539133 ($10.20)
Brace: 24570677 ($7.96)
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2 ($2.19)
Nut For Brace: 22535081 x2
Bolt Flange Head: 11516061 x2 ($.79)
Oil Pump Bolts To Block: 14050422 x2 ($2.28)
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2 ($2.28)
2.4 TC Crankshaft Modifications (Replacing the oil pump drive gears)
The 2.4L crank drive gear must be carefully heated and pressed or tapped off the crank. Be careful not to damage the crank surfaces or apply a lot of heat to the crank. The new oil pump drive gear should be heated and pressed back onto the crank. Use a brass hammer only if needed so you do not damage the teeth.
2.4L TC Block Modifications (These need to be done by a qualified machinist)
The oil passages to the pump must be re-machined to match the 2.3L pump. This operation must be done with the engine apart since it will require thorough cleaning when finished. Make a template from the right side of the oil pump that includes the bolt holes, oil passage and dowel pin holes. Lay it over the bolt hole on the block and carefully center and indicate the large oil hole center. This hole must be started and then drilled at an angle to intersect the horizontal oil passage that runs below it on the block. If you look from the back side of the block you will see where the passage pipe plug comes out. Draw a line on center with it and the hole center punch you have indicated and that is the angle the hole must be drilled. Drill the hole small and then increase drill sizes up to 9/16”. You will break through the casting and then drill into the oil passage casting. Make sure the final drill with the 9/16” bit is done slowly and smoothly, since you have to install the 2”x9/16” sleeve afterwards. Cool the sleeve and coat it with sealant. Gently tap it into the hole until it is flush with the block deck. Remove the oil galley plug to clean the passage and make sure the sleeve does not protrude into the oil passage bore.
Mount the pump up to the block and square it with the back of the block and snug it down gently. Take a small center punch and indicate the right side dowel pin hole into the block. Remove the pump and drill the hole to size #A machinist bit about 5/16” deep and then tap the dowel pin into the hole. Block the existing oil holes on the bottom of the 2.4L block: You must block the passages on the #3 and #4 main bosses on the bottom of the block, also. The larger angled hole can be tapped to a 3/8NPT (May require re-drilling to 37/64”) Remove the small round sleeve next to the hole first. And the smaller hole on the #3 boss needs to be drilled to a #R Machinist drill and tapped to 1/8NPT. The best is to use flush Allen pipe plugs and coat them with pipe sealant.
Install the pump on studs on #4 main bosses. A 14mm plug or short bolt can be installed in the other hole on the #3 boss. The sheet metal oil pickup holes will need to be slotted or you can carefully braze 2 small washers on it to line up with the studs that are installed on the #4 boss holes.
Fit the windage tray up – you will have to bend the left side up some to clear the thicker oil pan flange rail on the block. You will also have to enlarge the two holes at the studs to fit onto them. You will then have to indicate and drill two new holes for the windage tray front on the #2 boss flange area also. We suggest either a 3/8-16” coarse or 10mm x 1.5 thread bolts here, about ¾” (20mm) long.
2.3L Pump Modifications (The pump comes supplied with all other mounting hardware, etc)
The bottom boss on the oil pump must be ground down to clear the bottom of the 2.4 oil pan and the oil pickup may have to be moved up some to make proper clearance with the bottom of the pan. Make some trial fits with the pan and pump with the old oil pan gasket on the block to ensure proper fit. Some pans may require grinding and/or welding (aluminum) on the pan also for clearance. Make sure the pickup is not flat against the bottom of the pan.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Very nice directions Brian! This is on my wishlist, if I ever get around to building a new bottom end this will make the cut for sure.
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
For Sale:
Getrag '00-'02 2.4 8000kms $800
I've got all the parts, and the holes drilled to mount the pump...... now to just get someone to do the oil passage for it.......
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Speed can you send me by email all the pictures that you have ?
mcmoney
Location: Montreal, Quebec
its a lot of pics...... way to much hassle to try to send them out threw hotmail
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Magik1109 wrote:so i decided to go with the JBP high pressure oil pump instead! it won free up the 10-15HP from taking the balance shaft out, but will still provide good pressure on high rmp!
would this cure the infamous #3 bearing issue? like accel and hard cornering then it goes boom?
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
eh, someone should know.......
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
yea im curious about the jbp oil pump. Im probably gonna go with the 2.3 conversion since it will free up power. I just gotta find a shop and all the parts. but for now i can live with the stock oil pump cause if it fails my car is under warrenty till 2008 or 09. but its always nice to have a back up plan.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/827643
