With the turbo that I may be outfitting my 2.4 in, I was curious about raising my redline to accomodate the extra kick on the top end that the turbo would give me. I haven't been able to find any information on whether anyone has done this safely, so I was curious to ask.
Obviously, the bottom end will be forged, along with a ported head and upgraded valvetrain and maybe a custom intake manifold if I can talk a machinist I know into doing something different for me. Are there any cams out that make power past the original redline of the LD9?
Call me crazy for attempting, but I want to break the 350whp mark, and I have no problem spending the money to get there. I just want to make sure that things get done right the first time around.
Thanks in advance.
Raising the redline will only really help you if you have the correct cams for it. If the LD9 is anything like the LN2 powerband wise, it falls on it's face at redline (GM designed for decent all-around power, it's not an S2000 after all).
What turbo will you be using? You might not have that kick up top, depending on the turbo, and the rest of your engine...specs would help
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OHV notec wrote:Raising the redline will only really help you if you have the correct cams for it. If the LD9 is anything like the LN2 powerband wise, it falls on it's face at redline (GM designed for decent all-around power, it's not an S2000 after all).
What turbo will you be using? You might not have that kick up top, depending on the turbo, and the rest of your engine...specs would help
I agree with OHV notec.
Also, you want to make sure where exactly your power-band strengths are at. When you get your car dyno'd you'll see where your max power is. Say for example your peak is 6000 RPMs and you don't gain anymore power after 6000 RPMs, there would be no need for you to rev any higher. Now if you get cams and your power-band moves up and your peaking at your limiter, you might want to raise your limiter....but until then I don't think there is any need for you to do so.
If you do get cams, make sure they are specifically for forced inducted applications.
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with out the head mods and cams to run higher than the stock redline of 6450 , going any higher is worth less
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™)]with out the head mods and cams to run higher than the stock redline of 6450 , going any higher is worth less
Bingo
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if you DID decide you needed extra power up in that range... it would take of course, head work, the proper valvetrain, crank durability (having it at least micropolished and balanced), ARP rod bolts and head studs, and all that jazz... and the will power to shift when you stop making power at the top of your powerband
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I'm not looking for anything ridiculously higher than the stock rev limiter, I just wanted to be able to rev to around 7k or so. I'm used to driving Hondas and Nissans, so this lower redline is a bit different to me.
The turbo I'm using is a IHI T04S 60-1, which is basically a "Super T4", quick spool with big power. 60 trim turbo, with an a.r. of 70. It's pretty big basically.
I didn't really expect anything less than the cams, head upgrades, and bottom end upgrades, Is there anyone who has made aftermarket cams for these cars yet besides the "secret cam" swap?
Forged pistons, H-beam rods, cometic headgasket, arp rod and head bolt studs, valvetrain are all parts that I am coming onto purchasing.
How do you plan to raise your redline? Without this capability there's no point in worrying about the rest.
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Turbo200sx wrote:I didn't really expect anything less than the cams, head upgrades, and bottom end upgrades, Is there anyone who has made aftermarket cams for these cars yet besides the "secret cam" swap?
Contact Jbody Performance (
www.jbodyperformance.com) and they can have special forced induction cams made for your motor.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Turbo200sx wrote:I'm not looking for anything ridiculously higher than the stock rev limiter, I just wanted to be able to rev to around 7k or so. I'm used to driving Hondas and Nissans, so this lower redline is a bit different to me.
The turbo I'm using is a IHI T04S 60-1, which is basically a "Super T4", quick spool with big power. 60 trim turbo, with an a.r. of 70. It's pretty big basically.
I didn't really expect anything less than the cams, head upgrades, and bottom end upgrades, Is there anyone who has made aftermarket cams for these cars yet besides the "secret cam" swap?
Forged pistons, H-beam rods, cometic headgasket, arp rod and head bolt studs, valvetrain are all parts that I am coming onto purchasing.
so then you would be raising it just for appearance reasons if you are doing it, just because you are used to driving other cars.
like most said, without the proper parts, and especially parts that are made to handle that, its pointless.
hondas are usually lower displacement, which the stroke is shorter, so it can rev higher. the longer the stroke, the less the revs usually.
I'm going to suggest going to a dyno after your turbo is on. That will give you solid proof of where you are falling on your face and if to go any higher. I'm with everyone else by saying that you're going to mainly gain nothing without accompanying mods to back it up, however, a dyno sheet will list off exactly what your looking for.
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NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Turbo200sx wrote:I didn't really expect anything less than the cams, head upgrades, and bottom end upgrades, Is there anyone who has made aftermarket cams for these cars yet besides the "secret cam" swap?
Contact Jbody Performance (www.jbodyperformance.com) and they can have special forced induction cams made for your motor.
they already have FI cam profiles... high lift, short duration. if you ran an N/A cam you'd be leaking horribly out of your exhaust valves and losing all your precious boosted power.
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When revving to 7000-7500 rpms on a 2.4, you might want to watch out for the timing chain sprocket on the crank. I have seen 2-3 of them CRACK on a 2.4 twin cam that was revving to around 7300-7500 rpms. The first time it cracked was around 8,000 or so rpms. I guess when the sprocket cracked, the timing chain lost tension causing all of the intake valves to bend when they smacked the pistons. The other 2 times, the 2.4 was being revved to around 7300-7500 when the sprocket failed. The crack wasnt bad enough to cause the chain to loose tension, but the chain was noisy.
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Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:
so then you would be raising it just for appearance reasons if you are doing it, just because you are used to driving other cars.
No, I'm raising the redline because with the more rpm's I can turn, the more power I can get out of my turbo. I seriously doubt that a straight T4 is going to be weezing at 6300. I do plan on putting it on the dyno before I do a complete build on the motor so that I know where the strengths and weaknesses are.
Who makes the valvetrain upgrades for the LD9?
Even if your turbo is making more power over your rev limiter, if the cams are not change, it's pointless because your're still loosing power.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
Mfk-223 wrote:Even if your turbo is making more power over your rev limiter, if the cams are not change, it's pointless because your're still loosing power.
ding ding ding. he's right. without the cam profile allowing your powerband to extend into that RPM range... you are just SOL. just stick with a turbo that starts spooling around 1800, hits full boost by 3k, and enjoy 3500 RPM of solid boost.
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