Here maybe this will help you.. its the write up that Suncavi did
Here it is man, it will be different if you have a 2000+ J.
Ok guys I told you I was going to write I nice guide for a Eco swap, and yes
this is SunCavi.
1st of all this is only available to My friends from the ORG and good luck.
I am not even going to bother writing how to pull the 2.4L or the OHV motor
or the tranny out because if you don't know how to do it you are not going
to be able to do the swap, and please have someone else do it if you really
want it.
The parts that are needed for this swap are:
*Engine with full accesiories.
*Alternator
*Starter*
*TB
*power steering pump
*Power steering hoses
*Extend the gas lines
*Cooling hoses both
*Radiator, if you want or just rig the crap out of the old hose
*Complete engine wiring harness
*Headlight wiring harness, unless you wanna splice and stuff.
*Body wiring harness because the pin outs are NOT the same and IT WILL NOT
WORK.!!!
*Gauge cluster
*BCM
*ECU
*Center console if you want it or just cut the old one
*Brake master cylinder
*Bend your old brake lines.
*Upper motor mount BTW too.
Ok another thing I wanna add is Trottle body bracket to hold the Throtlle
cable.Ok now what I did with the fuel lines since mine were cut it I went
and bought like a couple of feet of just regural hard brake line that fits
in my stock fuel line and then bought more fuel line and extended it that
way with some hose clamps. GHETTO. lol
This tranny crap is for the guys that are doing a 5 speed swap Getrag.
*Tranny
*Tranny mounts
*Axles
*Shifter
*Shifter cables
*Flywheel
*disk
*pressure plate
*throw out bearing
*Rear tranny mount bracket
*bracket on the tranny that holds the shifter cables
*MAKE SURE THEY GIVE YOU ALL THE BOLTS FROM THE BELL HOUSING AND THE
PRESSURE PLATE TO FLYWHEEL, AND GIVE YOU THE CLIPS THAT HOLD THE SHIFTER
CABLES DOWN, AND THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER TOGETHER WITH THE THROW OUT
BEARING.
If you don't have these clips when you push the clutch pedal it WILL pop out
of the bearing and you won't have pedal.
Now I found the problem to this damn thing because I just got Nitrous put on
my Eco and what I did is, I bent the little clip, kinda of like folded it
and doubled up on it with some plyers and stuck it in there so that is
doesn't flex and it doesn't give me crap anymore, hence NO problems there
anymore I have been spraying on the motor like there is no tomorrow.
If your car had Isuzu 5 speed in it that you WILL be able to re-use the
front tranny mount bracket it just needs to be shaved a little to clear the
Getrag and drill a different hole in it. What I mean with this is that if
you are looking straight at the bracket once you pull the wheel off you will
see it as a little rectangle, well just shave the bottom right edge of it
and RE-DRILL a hole about 2-3 inches to the left and you will be able to
work with that.
The rear one, cut it off, go to GM dealer and buy a new one and weld it on.
PART NUMBER IS 22629361!!!!!!!!!!!.
The way you are going to do this is, bolt the tranny on the motor, and the
tranny mounts on the tranny. Then put the bracket on the mounts and adjust
the motor and the tranny with the cherry picker or a Jack where it need to
be positioned and stuff, so that way the motor sits correct in the engine
bay and not crooked.
I can also tell you about Evap canister, and the gas tank and the module.
Ok lets start and see what I did 1st.
I don't have any pics or anything, I am sorry because these swaps are pain
in the a$$ and I am NOT usually happy when I do them because my car IS my
daily driver and I need it on the road. I am going to referre to engine
harness as EH, body harness as BH and head light harness as HH.
I pulled the Quad 4 out with the tranny so 1st of all I put the Eco motor
with full accessories in it and mounted it on the upper and lower motor
mount, I was looking at it and I said why not try to start it without the
tranny with just the flywheel on and my old BH in it. I hooked everything
up, all the new EH and left the old BH in it, and it did not crank
whatsoever, the car was not ALIVE and that is when I figured out that I need
the BH and the BCM and more crap.So I said I am going to junk yard and I am
going to pull the BCM and the BH and go from there, I am also going to pull
the cooling hosss out because they were different.
Next day I went to hook up the cooling hoses when I realized that the
radiators were different and I had to find a way to hook it up, so I used
the Ecotec hose that goes to the tranny side of the radiator and the other
one, well lets just say I made that damn thing fit by, zip tying it to the
oil dip stick away from the damn belt.Ok now I have to figure out the heater
hoses, so I went to Auto Store find a hose with a 180 degree bend in it and
just BYPASSED the heater core since I don't have a heater in the car. Gas
lines were already done, Power steering was done, so now we are off to brake
master cylinder. I had the 00+ master cylinder and let me tell you, you have
to put the bracket 1st on the booster and the the master cylinder on the
bracket and tighten down, and make sure you don't mix up the break lines,
but you can just bend them to fit. Ok so now you have the cooling to the
motor and you got gas, you have power steering and brakes. The motor is
mounted, but the tranny is not.
Third time out we are attacking the tranny: So I did have Ishizu tranny in
the car and I had the bottom bracket on there and the rear one, not that
rear one mattered I had to cut it off and orded the GM one, I left you all a
part number.Ok I mounted the tranny without the flywheel and the clutch on
the motor with a couple of bellhousing bolts on there and positioned it how
it is suppose to be in the engine bay and just left it there. Smoked a
cigarette, brought out the welder, cutting wheel, and a drill. I put the
tranny mounts on the tranny and tighten them down and then put the rear
bracket on the mount and the bolt trough the middle, come on you guys know
the drill, positioned the rear bracket and welded it. I cut the bottom one
and RE-DRILLED the hole. Took the tranny off and installed the flyweel with
the bolts, pressure plate and clutch disk with the aligment tool and the
bolts, and broke one (THEY ARE BRITTLE), and went to put the tranny on the
motor.It took me about 4 hours and it wouldn't clear. My friend came over
and said you are tired aren't you, I was like why?? He said you didn't even
undo the lower motor mount so HOW DO YOU EXPECT THE TRANNY TO GO IN THERE??
After I chased him away with the 23 mm WRENCH I did that and the tranny was
on, with no PROBLEM, So from now on that is how we are doing it. Tighten the
mounts and everything on and I went to sleep
Next time out, I am almost ready I got my BH and the BCM and HH and EH that
was already in there. I changed the shifter and the shifter cables, changed
the BH and the BCM put the HH on there I was like what the hell, threw some
axles on the car (Getrag ones) Here in a Big one( 1st TIME I PUT THE ISUZU
AXLES IN IT AND THEY WORKED!!!!!)but my dad made take them off because he
MICKED THE AXLES ON THE GETRAG and told me they were thicker, he was sick of
me braking the axles, so I did that. Now that everything is hooked up I am
tired and went to sleep.
Next time out Everything is hooked up but the car will crank and it won't
turn, MAN WAS I MAD!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I saw that my speedo won't hook up to
the new BH so I thought that was the problem and I went and got one. Hooked
it up and the Theft light came ON!!! Damn it!!! So I also realized the the
RADIO plug is different and the cigarette lighter!! Damn it. Before you guys
do this make sure all the FUSES ARE IN THE FUSE BOX AND THE ARE GOOD!!
Please. So I call my friend at local GM dealership and he said the PASS LOCK
IS ACTIVATED BECAUSE YOU ARE USING BCM, BH from one car, and the KEY with
the magnetic pick up from your old car with the ignition. He said this is
how you TEACH THE BCM to take it up the A$$.
You disconnect the battery and connect it while the ignition is off, get in
the car and sit and DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING ASSOCIATED WITH POWER EVEN DOOR
CHIME!!! Just sit there. When you get in the car, put the ignition ON and
the Theft light SHOULD BLINK, leave it because it WILL blink for 10 minutes
and stop, you have to catch it because as soon as it stops, you have a 5
second WINDOW, turn the ignition OFF and back ON, and it should start
blinking for another 10 minutes. After the second 10 minutes it will stop
and again you have a 5 SECOND frame to turn it OFF and back ON, now wait for
the 3rd time and when the Theft light goes OFF, you can go ahead and START
THE ECOTEC.
Ok now, it takes about 4-5 quarts of ENGINE OIL, 4.1 Quarts of Dextron
Mercon Auto tranny fluid in the Getrag. You need to fill up the power
steering, Coolant, and the brake master cylinder and the clutch(same fluid
like the brakes). I am not going any further into the details about putting
the master cylinder on and the throttle cable, you all should know how to do
this, and I TOOK THE CAR FOR A SPIN!!!!!
Ok I am going to tell you all I had the motor in the car for almost 2 weeks,
and I have:
*3 inch turbo exhaust on it, * Just regural air filter* No AC (but the
compressor is still there)* RK lower mount* 55 shot Zex dry* strut tower
bar* lower A-arm bar with poly bushings* Azenis at 20 PSI.
I ran a 9.53 in the 1/8th at like 73 mph with my gilrfriend in the car with
me, and 2.2 60" time so I am guessing about 9.30's for me and the motor is
bone stock. So about 14.3's in the 1/4.
Well that is about it and I am going to find the belt to run with NO AC, and
I am going to post the DAMN belt size since everyone"""""" who has this
done""""""", won't say the belt size number a$$holes, except you Craig.
SunCaviEco member since ealry 2000 contributing to you all like always.
From 2.2 OHV 3 speed to 55 shot to 65 shot, to 2.4L 4 speed to 55 shot to
65 shot, to 2.4L 5 speed to 2.4L all forged Turbo 10 PSI, to 2.2 DOHC 5
speed Getrag to 55 shot to TURBO VERY SOON.!!!
