Alright, I'm getting pissed! I've had the HO mani on for about a month now and I love it. The gains are great and it looks cool too, but ever since I put it on my car runs like SH**! For a while I just had the EGR (solinoid?) thing plugged in and mounted by itself in the engine bay. It threw for poor EGR flow CEL and ran kinda rough but ok I guess. I was getting bad mileage and it would idle very sporatically. Then my dad says he wants me to put the old mani back on. (Noo!) So I told him I just needed the EGR sim and it would be gravy. So I bought it and put it on. It solves the EGR thing but now I have another CEL (I assume for low MAP voltage) and it will idle low, then high then when you push in the clutch while driving it will go up to about 1500, then to about 2100, then back to about 1500, and then fall down to about 700, and try to die. So I though I just need to find a way to get more voltage to the MAP so my electronics freind suggested wiring the sim in parallel with the MAP, basically a jumper wire from the cut ends of the MAP sensor, and I tried that, SAME THING!! And I know that it is running rich, at idle it is around 11.9, nowhere near the 14 or so a/f ratio I should be at. I just went through my first tank with the Sim and got freaking 19 mpg!! I drive my car a little hard but it never used to go below 23. I dont get it and am at the verge of having to admit that my dad is right.

Okay, I've vented. Is there some way to make this work? I dont have a lot of money and cannot afford to switch to the 99 ECM. Is it for sure my MAP sensor? Could the TPS do that? I know that the IAC is good and I have no vacuum leaks I am sure. How can I fix this and make my car run right?

you really need to try and see exactly which code is the cause of the ce light

been threw it all, it sucks

only thing i didnt try was running a resitor between the map power wire and signal wire.
(talk to mr pute about that more)

I just have the egr off my car, i clear my code when i start up the car and it runs sweet.

once u are done hacking up your map sensor wires, i do have that plug and about 6 inchs of wire if u ever hack it up beyond repair ( ) . i think i have it somewhere, hmm.

anyways, good luck and keep us udpated.

^^ yeah I know I have a friend who is a mechanic and said I could use his scan tool so I will do that.

Yeah it does suck, how do you clear your code when you start it up and whats this about a resistor?

your dad sounds like my dad, once he saw how much work it was to swap the mani he told me he wasnt gonna help... lol once he heard it might not run right he told me i wasted my money... meh... i prolly wont install mine...


but sorry i couldnt help you with ur prob, i just hope u get it all sorted...


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Now Blazing: Bunker Bud

Well, I disconnected the battery and let it all reset with the jumper wire and all, then let it run for a little while, and the CEL back and I still have a rough idle, but I got rid of the funny up-down-up thing on startup. I am still not quite satisfied and will have to see about mileage.

I would like to know about this resistor thing: or any other ideas to solve the problem.
Nice to see I am not alone with my woes.... I just wish someone who knows the fix could help us all out...

i have a code scanner. start up the car, plug in the scanner, wait for the cel to come on , clear it and drive away.

advanced autoparts will scan the cpu for free.

just unplug the EGR sim and leave nothing plugged into the EGR plug.... the code will come on for the EGR but who cares? having the CEL on for the EGR isnt going to make your car run any different...having the code on for the MAP however WILL make your car run like @!#$....so jusy unplug the sim... and drive...no need to clear it every time you start your car

EGR only works when engine is above idle, all it does is allow exhaust gas to reburn in the cylenders. At idle the valve is closed anyway, if the valve sticks and it stays open at idle it messes up the idle. But the EGR is an emmissions controll, so a CEC for it does nothing to engine performance, and removing it does nothing harmfull to the engine.

MAP sensor, however, when throwing a code will mess with everything since it is a critical sensor, it will throw your car into closed loop. The EGR sim will only keep the CEC from comming on from the EGR, and who cares about that anyway lol. Mine is blocked off bah.





22 miles per gallon and dropping fast...

Well, I tryed that,^^ just unplugging it and it coughed twice, sputtered and died! So for right now I just have everything setup as above and its a little better. As far as the EGR CEL not doing anything to performance than why am I running rich? And coincidentally bogging at low RPM when I hit the gas?

just a question....when you unplugged the egr sim ...did you also unhook it from the MAP sensor wires? or just unplug it?

I just unlugged it, thats probably what the problems was, cause then it would hae been just like unplugging the map sensor which would kill it. Ok. That was my fault. I was searching on this topic and I saw that DTP posted somthing I think I'm gonna try. I'll let you know if it works.

ya lemme know

Yeah, I will it will be at least another day or so before I can try it. But I will keep you posted.

Couple things....... make sure you have your vac. lines hooked up right (error on the install guide, Line from EVAP purge needs to go to the upper port on t/b)...... that will effect idle, and stalling when comming to stops. I just did another HO manifold install today (with Exploited spacer) and it runs mint. Idles like stock. (also did the 99 pcm reflash)

Next thing..... the EGR Sim..... The sim is designed for the 3.8 (s/c?) engine....... the map readings for that car are going to be different then the readings for our J-bods...... thats whats most likely causing the problems. The sim is designed to cause a voltage drop on the MAP signal wire, to simulate a vacuum change in the manifold, from the EGR opening up. I'm guessing the sim is dropping the voltage to much. Only way to check this, is to have a meter on the map wire, when the EGR opens..... and see what the drop is........ then check that against the sim. For now, that is just speculation on my part, but it makes sence (since the 3.8 guys dont have this problem). It might be possible to open up the sim, and change the voltage drop, but IDK yet.




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Okay, thanks, I will check about the vac lines.

Oh, and as an update the thing I was trying didn't work. I tried tapping the EGR and running a Vac line to it but it didn't work. So I put it back the way I had it (With the EGR sim gone, and the EGR itself plugged in and set off to the side.) and checked the last thing...the TPS. I took it off, and was gonna switch it with the one off my other project car (more about that soon in 'Other cars' forum ) but I took it off and found that it is a different style sensor! Must be cause I am using the 95 T/b. So I was pissed cause a new one is like $60 and I am poor. So just for fun I took the old one off my 2.4 t/b and it is exactly the same!!! So I put it on and have no more problems, other than the CEL. I am Sooooo happy!!!