Ok so my my motor locked up and i only had it in for 3 months long story on how it happened but basically im stuck, i was intrested in a stroker kit but maybe just a build up on the car pistons, rods, some head work? Im leanign more to the na side mayeb nitrous later turbo is really not my thing, any one reccomend a way to go where to look? The car is at the mechanic shop currently being dissassembled so i need to make my mind up fast i was wanting to get soemthign close to 200hp to teh wheels and maybe a 50 shot of nitrous but have the build up to run 150 shot if the time ever came???
Okay,
To handle 150 shot will take major work. Its gonna take forged piston titanium valves and extra.... In another words its like this. You need to reinforce everythign done to that engine. You also must accompidate (spelling) for the fuel and air ratios. SO you have to look into fuel rails and high performance pumps filters extra extra. It will take money and time. If this is an everyday drive I would tell your best bet is to get a valve job done on your heads with the core charge added. Your looking anywhere from 1,200 up... then you can get a high performance rebuild kit for a decent price... BUT handleign 150.... a couple hits of that will throw lifters and rods all the time if you dont put the money in it and do it right the first time. But hey what do I know
right now i have the money and the mechanic is my friend i can do the head work but a mild P & P or race? 3 angle or 5 angle valve job? Where can i get valves and valve springs i can tfind them anywhere or even a complete performance rebuild kit at that>
RJ Miller wrote:Okay,
To handle 150 shot will take major work. Its gonna take forged piston titanium valves and extra.... In another words its like this. You need to reinforce everythign done to that engine. You also must accompidate (spelling) for the fuel and air ratios. SO you have to look into fuel rails and high performance pumps filters extra extra. It will take money and time. If this is an everyday drive I would tell your best bet is to get a valve job done on your heads with the core charge added. Your looking anywhere from 1,200 up... then you can get a high performance rebuild kit for a decent price... BUT handleign 150.... a couple hits of that will throw lifters and rods all the time if you dont put the money in it and do it right the first time. But hey what do I know
Wow... thats a LOT of bull@!#$...
Titanium valves? Nah
Fuel Rail? Nah
High Performance Pump? Walbro 255lph $100
Heads? Singular, "Head" Only one...
Throw lifters? Sorry, that made me laugh...
Throw rods? That made me laugh too. If its built, and has good bearings, and is sprayed correctly, won't happen.
People say 150 shot like it'll "drop the floorboards".
Depends on what made you're block lock up, what was the cause?
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lack of oil caused the bearings to slip or spin not sure on the exact term
lmao...make sure you dont throw out any pushrods..
Oh sorry i didnt explain further it is in rebuildable condition i would just have to get the rods machined and what not but like i said i want to build it up
Forged pistons (if not going boost, do 10.5:1), forged rods, clevite 77 bearings, ARP head studs, victor rienz head gasket, light port and polishing, keep the stock valves if you don't have a lot of money. You'll probably also need to have the crank machined because of the bearing failure. Have it bored out .020 over, pick up some secret cams, a nice header (again, if not going boost), the HO intake manifold, and you'll have yourself a nice setup going there.
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who is making the valves for our cars about how much are they running and can i use stock size rods/pistons with a .020 over bore??
I payed $1200 for my race head with cams... A good head with stainless valves, good springs, and a 5 way P&P will cost you. But it's worth it. Anyways, if you need a new crank for some reason, let me know. I have one sitting in my workshop.
oh lets all give (shifted) a round of applause. Its nice to see someone dumping their hate on someone trying to help. I guess I didnt tell exactly all that needed to be told for someone that has a high self confidence but low ego.... LOOK BUDDY I never droped a hate line on you so back up.
All I was saying was. Put 150 shot on a stock cavalier motor. I would laugh at shifted if he thought he could get by with it. What would be the first thing to happen Mr. shifted? Buy fuel and air I ment. Without added fuel you will deprive your system from the capabilities it could have and without proper flow you could do the same. I WAS SAYING ALL IN ALL IT WILL TAKE TIME AND MONEY!! with Tit. Valves he can REV limit all he wants IF YOUR GOING TO DO IT DO IT THE RIGHT WAY.... Sorry for your post being trashed GM_GUY.... I give your my apologies. Though all I'm saying is is take your time and do it right...
No no problem I apreciate the help from every one now I just have to take the time and decide what im going to do if im goign to do anything at all.
RJ Miller wrote:oh lets all give (shifted) a round of applause. Its nice to see someone dumping their hate on someone trying to help. I guess I didnt tell exactly all that needed to be told for someone that has a high self confidence but low ego.... LOOK BUDDY I never droped a hate line on you so back up.
All I was saying was. Put 150 shot on a stock cavalier motor. I would laugh at shifted if he thought he could get by with it. What would be the first thing to happen Mr. shifted? Buy fuel and air I ment. Without added fuel you will deprive your system from the capabilities it could have and without proper flow you could do the same. I WAS SAYING ALL IN ALL IT WILL TAKE TIME AND MONEY!! with Tit. Valves he can REV limit all he wants IF YOUR GOING TO DO IT DO IT THE RIGHT WAY.... Sorry for your post being trashed GM_GUY.... I give your my apologies. Though all I'm saying is is take your time and do it right...
no one is talking about putting a 150 on a stock motor.... that pretty much goes without saying.
shifted was correct in his reply.....you can rev limit with stainless steel valves, you dont need titanium. titanium merely drops weight so that things rev quicker. has nothing to do with reaching or not reaching redline.
and like said, you dont need a fuel rail. not many on have a need besides looks to surpass the stock rail.2.2 or 2.4
and you are kinda being heavy on the "drama" with you "lets give an applause stuff"....
he didnt call you any names, he just simply called BS... he could have posted
instead of writing it out. some feel less offended, but really its saying the same thing.
what he posted isnt hate, its calling a spade and spade and not sugar coating it. HATE is when someone makes it personal with intent to damage your ego.
gm guy, was it the number three rod?
RJ Miller wrote:oh lets all give (shifted) a round of applause. Its nice to see someone dumping their hate on someone trying to help. I guess I didnt tell exactly all that needed to be told for someone that has a high self confidence but low ego.... LOOK BUDDY I never droped a hate line on you so back up.
All I was saying was. Put 150 shot on a stock cavalier motor. I would laugh at shifted if he thought he could get by with it. What would be the first thing to happen Mr. shifted? Buy fuel and air I ment. Without added fuel you will deprive your system from the capabilities it could have and without proper flow you could do the same. I WAS SAYING ALL IN ALL IT WILL TAKE TIME AND MONEY!! with Tit. Valves he can REV limit all he wants IF YOUR GOING TO DO IT DO IT THE RIGHT WAY.... Sorry for your post being trashed GM_GUY.... I give your my apologies. Though all I'm saying is is take your time and do it right...
ummm hate to break it to ya, but shifted is right. 150 shot although a very big step is not the end of the world when it comes to nitrous and will not take anything "out of the ordinary" to run it and to do it safely. I have no clue why your talking about getting valves and throwing LIFTERS and rods? a modified stock bottom end (get all the rods checked for cracks, i would reccomend getting them shot peen'd but thats only for safety and incase you wanted to go bigger later, and forged NITROUS pistons (yes there is a difference)) can take a 150+ shot no problem. Nitrous is NOT going to make you throw lifters and is not going to make you snap rods.
From the way you are talking it sounds like you are wanting to use a wet kit but instead of running a separate fuel system for the nitrous you want to use the stock one. Being a fairly expirienced nitrous person i can tell you this is NOT a good idea, go get yourself a 1gallon fuel cell and a in-line pump (holly blue,etc is sufficient) if you dont do this, your running yourself into a basket of trouble. Basically for bottom end mods you going to have to get everything checked for micro-cracks, and when you get the new pistons i reccomend getting the rotating assy ballanced (even a CHEAP ballance job is better than non)
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plus he's (shifted) a moderator isnt he...... dumbasss
96 All motor 5 Speed Z24, Best time 15.97@86MPH
You know I have no idea I had saved up every penny to get that new motor put in had it in for liek 3 moths drove it fine raced it once not even hard had a leak from the pulley seal wasnt bad took it to pep boys they said call us in 2 hours i did and they dont me hey you rcar dont start, the motor is locked up, not cool at all im really bummed out its my 3rd motor and i ahd decided not to driv hard and this time it wasnt my fault, pep boys denies evrerything leaving me in teh hole big time, i just took it to a friend he is going to do the work for free if i help him out so looking at about $500 or so due to gaskets and guessing basic machine shop costs, motor just didnt turn at all no idea what rod it was, sorry, to answer yoru question, im just so afraid of anything happening again so i want to build a motor worry free even if i get the urge to race and use nitrous once in awhile, so yeah thats where i stand, thanks for all the help guys
event... just to inform you, not saying anything of what you said is wrong, but here lately, it seems like many peoples oil pumps are failing on the 2.4L and they are spinning all the rod bearings. I have 3 motors in my shop right now all 2.4L and all have at least 3 spun bearings on each one. That oil pump royally sucks, I just had to rebuild my engine for that same reason too. I am looking into tearing the engine back out just to put the 2.3 oil pump in there. By the way... its good to have you back, we need the old timers to get back in here.... has anyone seen or heard from evil major? sorry no trying to post jack
96 All motor 5 Speed Z24, Best time 15.97@86MPH
hey so what oil pump do you reccomend where can i get it and any mods to install it or direct fit?
ahittz24 wrote:event... just to inform you, not saying anything of what you said is wrong, but here lately, it seems like many peoples oil pumps are failing on the 2.4L and they are spinning all the rod bearings. I have 3 motors in my shop right now all 2.4L and all have at least 3 spun bearings on each one. That oil pump royally sucks, I just had to rebuild my engine for that same reason too. I am looking into tearing the engine back out just to put the 2.3 oil pump in there. By the way... its good to have you back, we need the old timers to get back in here.... has anyone seen or heard from evil major? sorry no trying to post jack
nah its cool. thanx on the rewelcome, brah.
just goin back history wise, cause for a long time alot of #3 rod bearings were failing due to lack of oiling.
if its the oil pumps that are now failing, gm guy this may help you as well, check out melling.
melling usually carries a reg oil pump
then also a HV version (high volume)
and then for those that may need it, a HP (high pressure) versions of the original.
i know they have it for the 2.2 ohv, so i assume with the 2.4 being more parts for it, they should have something similar.
if possible, see if something can be done about the oil passages when the engines are torn down. even if it can be extrude honeda slight slight bit to smooth out and open it up a bit.
gm guy, also how many miles did you put on it in those three months being a new engine, and how was it broken in after you got it installed?
just running through some ideas
If that guy knew how big event was I bet he'd quit talkin crap lol
Event...WELCOME BACK! WE MISSED YA!
Back on subject...the one guy up there is right...go have your block treated, bored as needed (if it's ok). After that, have them contact JE/ Weisco/Ross whoever...and the shop that treated your block/crank will make sure you get the right rods/pistons, and make sure they know you're building the motor for nitrous. I had a friend of mine build his saturn motor up a lot, but since the machine shop didn't put the motor together with nitrous in mine, he blew his block in half LONG WAYS lol. System design is everything...design it to run nitrous, you could run 150...maybe more
yeah well I'm 6-foot-5 225 plds been lifting weights for 4 years and trained for "Golds Gym Boxing" for 1 year... ha ha ha make me laugh again
^im 5'8 with a lil muscle and i can prolly take a better beating then your mom did when you were conceived. what is your point?
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^^LOL
-da chinchilla
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