What can I expect from the following mods.. I'm putting the orders in tonight I think.
Unorthodox Underdrive Crank Pulley,
Bomz Accessory Underdrive Pulley,
Ebay Intake,
Pacesetter headers,
Ohh I'm also having my Throttle body bored to 59mm
and running 2.5" piping from the headers back..
I'm guessing I will net about 16-20hp... Am I close?
so you dont have to go to the profile... Its a 01 z24
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pacesetter HEADER (no plurl)
i'd stay away from the ebay intakes. if you are throwing down money, buy the AEM cold air intake. you don't want 2.5" piping. you want 2.25" catback built, muffler of your choice with a 2.25" inlet. invest in some solid mounts from Karo at
carcustoms.net. With pulleys, header, catback, intake, bored TB, and mounts you should gain somewhere in the region of 25 to 30 whp.
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nothing wrong with an Ebay intake. there is no difference in Ebay intake, AEM, or Injen. its just a pipe with a filter at the one end. and most of the people on this site would agree with me on that one
i would not go any bigger than 2.5 for a catback.
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
its hard to say an exact figure.... all cars are different and the region that you live in effects how your car reacts to mods believe it or not.... just do it, and test it.. thats all you can do.
96 All motor 5 Speed Z24, Best time 15.97@86MPH
Only get 2.5" if you plan on getting boost or doing motor work. It won't hurt having a 2.5" for the time between now and boost/motor work, you'll probably won't have as much power as you would with a 2 1/4" piping.
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2.25 for naturally aspirated if you open up the air flow too much you might run lean, ebay intakes are fine just get a good filter cause those usually come with terrible filters, also you may want to consider fuel mods next, maybe an adjustable fpr.
fuel mods?
wtf are you on?
just get bolt ons for now
if you want boost then worry about fuel
skinny E wrote:2.25 for naturally aspirated if you open up the air flow too much you might run lean, ebay intakes are fine just get a good filter cause those usually come with terrible filters, also you may want to consider fuel mods next, maybe an adjustable fpr.
you will absolutely not run lean if you go bigger than 2.25" exhaust piping or if you "open up the air flow". that doesnt make sense at all. you want the most airflow you can get in and out of the cylinders. you'll get more low end power with 2.25" piping and more top end power with 2.5" piping. its up to you.
you wont need any kind of fuel mods until you get into highly modifying your NA engine. this means port and polished heads, high compression pistons, high performance cams, and so on. then
maybe you might need more than what the stock fuel system can flow. too much fuel in an NA car and you'll run unnecessarily rich and you'll visit the gas station 3 times as much.
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450WHP Turbo Ecotec swap in the works...
skinny E wrote:2.25 for naturally aspirated if you open up the air flow too much you might run lean, ebay intakes are fine just get a good filter cause those usually come with terrible filters, also you may want to consider fuel mods next, maybe an adjustable fpr.
I'd hightly suggest an SAFC instead of an Adjustable FPR...with an SAFC you can control how much fuel you get in each selected RPM range and it's much easier to adjust yourself. I have it on my car and problem the best supporting mod I can make.
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So much misinformation it makes my balls hurt.
you can run lean from bolt ons, all a engine does is pump air, but to pump air it needs to have fuel to burn with it and stay as close to 14.7lbs air to 1lb of fuel as possible, I don't know if the ecu and stock injectors can comphensate for these mods I was'nt saying that a 2.5inch exhaust would make it run lean it will just loose power because of the lack of backpressure. I suggested fuel mods because increasing the fuel pressure slightly on a car with the bolt ons he is suggesting usually turns out making quite a bit more power. If the stock computer and ecu can handle it than there is no need for fuel mods, hook it up to a 4 gas analyzer after the mods and see what the air the fuel ratio is, don't buy a air/fuel ratio gauge cause thats just a short band and does'nt tell you very much.
^ what you are saying is only true is the stock fuel system is operating at maximum efficiency... which with those mods... it won't be.
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skinny E wrote:you can run lean from bolt ons, all a engine does is pump air, but to pump air it needs to have fuel to burn with it and stay as close to 14.7lbs air to 1lb of fuel as possible, I don't know if the ecu and stock injectors can comphensate for these mods I was'nt saying that a 2.5inch exhaust would make it run lean it will just loose power because of the lack of backpressure. I suggested fuel mods because increasing the fuel pressure slightly on a car with the bolt ons he is suggesting usually turns out making quite a bit more power. If the stock computer and ecu can handle it than there is no need for fuel mods, hook it up to a 4 gas analyzer after the mods and see what the air the fuel ratio is, don't buy a air/fuel ratio gauge cause thats just a short band and does'nt tell you very much.
I can tell you from personal experience, our computers tend to dump tons of fuel when you modify your car/motor. I have an SAFC and I keep turning that sucker down and it gets even stronger and stronger. Soon I'm going to get an A/F ratio to make sure I don't run lean from turning it down so much.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NJs Honda Killa wrote:skinny E wrote:you can run lean from bolt ons, all a engine does is pump air, but to pump air it needs to have fuel to burn with it and stay as close to 14.7lbs air to 1lb of fuel as possible, I don't know if the ecu and stock injectors can comphensate for these mods I was'nt saying that a 2.5inch exhaust would make it run lean it will just loose power because of the lack of backpressure. I suggested fuel mods because increasing the fuel pressure slightly on a car with the bolt ons he is suggesting usually turns out making quite a bit more power. If the stock computer and ecu can handle it than there is no need for fuel mods, hook it up to a 4 gas analyzer after the mods and see what the air the fuel ratio is, don't buy a air/fuel ratio gauge cause thats just a short band and does'nt tell you very much.
I can tell you from personal experience, our computers tend to dump tons of fuel when you modify your car/motor. I have an SAFC and I keep turning that sucker down and it gets even stronger and stronger. Soon I'm going to get an A/F ratio to make sure I don't run lean from turning it down so much.
get the Innovative LM-1 if you need to know about a/f ratios because the narrow band of a standard gauge won't really tell you anything unless you are always at WOT, it's good for a flashy light show.
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Spotabee Racing wrote:get the Innovative LM-1 if you need to know about a/f ratios because the narrow band of a standard gauge won't really tell you anything unless you are always at WOT, it's good for a flashy light show.
Really? Ain't that a bitch, didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NJs Honda Killa wrote:Spotabee Racing wrote:get the Innovative LM-1 if you need to know about a/f ratios because the narrow band of a standard gauge won't really tell you anything unless you are always at WOT, it's good for a flashy light show.
Really? Ain't that a bitch, didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
not a problem man. any cheap a/f gauge you can buy has such as narrow band, as do the o2 sensors (unheaded 1-wire.... the widebands are heated 5-wire sensors) and they just can't do that great of a job. the pcm is concentrated on keeping a stoich 14.7:1 a/f ratio constantly which is why you get the flashy light show unless at WOT. there was a GP on the LM-1 wideband controller a while back, check the GP forum you might still be able to get a deal on one.
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Hey guys thanks for all the help, think I'm going to just bolt everything up and see how it runs. If i notice anything other then an increase in performance I will look at some fuel mods...
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Spotabee Racing wrote:NJs Honda Killa wrote:Spotabee Racing wrote:get the Innovative LM-1 if you need to know about a/f ratios because the narrow band of a standard gauge won't really tell you anything unless you are always at WOT, it's good for a flashy light show.
Really? Ain't that a bitch, didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
not a problem man. any cheap a/f gauge you can buy has such as narrow band, as do the o2 sensors (unheaded 1-wire.... the widebands are heated 5-wire sensors) and they just can't do that great of a job. the pcm is concentrated on keeping a stoich 14.7:1 a/f ratio constantly which is why you get the flashy light show unless at WOT. there was a GP on the LM-1 wideband controller a while back, check the GP forum you might still be able to get a deal on one.
the reason you get that light show is because the o2 sensor is contantly telling the pcm to add and or remove gas.
your car naturally switches from rich to lean. if you have an AF from like autometer, you are pretty much seeing the 02 sensor switch from lean to rich constantly, hence how it works.
so its not really a light show, its actually showing you that the sensor is working, hence the reson why there is a guage to monitor it.
if your sensor fails or gets damaged and reads only lean or rich, it will also show as well.
i agree wide bands are more accurate, usually showing numerical terms, but a guage and a single wire is a decent addition for you to keep check on making sure your o2 sensor is reading accurately. theres was a time were my original o2 sensor failed, and then i noticed it. along with the wrong sensor i was given at the parts counter i noticed it on the guage as well, from running lean.
the computer may be concentrated on keeping it stoich, but its like a man on a log in the lake trying to balance himself, he will constantly go back and forth rolling that log trying to keep his balance perfect.
i like your analogy event. i'm investing in a wideband myself for the swap because it's those little things that will just piss me off when they dont' work right.
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Spotabee Racing wrote:i like your analogy event. i'm investing in a wideband myself for the swap because it's those little things that will just piss me off when they dont' work right.
well anything will def work right as long as its installed and or hooked up right.
those who will be going boost, or possibly nitrous, those are the areas when widebands are past beneficial and almost crucial simply cause precision is needed, or else bad things can happen.
for an N/A car not really neeeded as much, as a reg a/f meter works more than fine. there are those who get them "modded" so the lights dont sweep constantly and accurately as they should, but thats basically de-engineering it.
OMG its Event! The head honcho! How you been?
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Torque Monster wrote:So much misinformation it makes my balls hurt.
No $hit youre not kidding.
And whats so amazing...it just keeps recycling itself over and over and over...
...and over
Say it with me, "Its not what you know...It's what you can prove"
15-20hp was a good guess.
25-30 as someone else stated is way off for these engines with those mods.
fuel mods are not needed for those mods.
Don't steal, the government doesn't like competition
^^^^^^^ Don't listen to him. You can easily get over 30 hp with those mods. Just make sure you put ALL the stickers on that come with the parts.
But seriously, you'll get a nice gain over it but just expect what you thought and if you get more congradulations, all cars respond a little differently. If you get alot more though, please don't call it a factory freak, we have enough of them running around.
Rich
