Okay the parts store closes in one hour, I want to do my PS pump on my new engine and need a thermostat while I am in there, should I get the 180 or 160 degree thermostat? I would assume for performance reasons 160, which is what I have seen done by others, so what should I do?
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
do not get the 160 , it will cause you problems
get the stock size t-stat
180... even as close as my header is to the t-stat it works fine. E's right.
The lower temp thermostat was used on older carswith solid cast iron block/head ect.. lower temp thermostat meant the engine would runn cooler making slightly more power... on our little all alluminum 4 cylider engines the heat transfer rate is alo better then cast iron, running a cooler thermostat can actualy cause the car to runto cold, not heat up as much as it should which pisses off the car
he's got the 2.4L.
Iron block, aluminum head. the 160 may be alright for his motor. Get it and if it seems worse than the 180, go get a 180 and put it in. what does a thermostat cost $10 or so.
It will open before the car reaches the operating temp. that the PCM is calibrated for . The PCM will think the car is always warming up . The PCM will be firing longer pulses to the injectors causing you to waste that much more fuel . It is just tricking the PCM into running richer longer . You would get the same benefit is if you were to totally remove the thermostat .
A 180* thermostat is all you need in the car or even the OEM replacement will work just as good . That way your car reaches it's operating temp faster saving you money at the pump .
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
pretty much what he ^^^ said
the computer is set to run on the stock t-stat temp
the lower temp will cause the motor to run richer , and it wont run efficently
my friend tried it , and it ended up cloggin his cat
if we had a programer that would allow us to tune it like they do the camaro's truck's , we would be able to remap the pcm to take advantage of the cooler t-stat
untill then doing it is a lost cause
so if we get the programmer going one day
it might be worth something
so what if your running boost? since boost usually causes the motor to run hotter, might a 160 tstat be a good thing then?
Land Pirates sail the open roads
DISCLAIMER: If anything I say offends you, I don't care..wear a helmet. Also, the information
I post is what I know to the best of my knowledge. If I am wrong, please correct me so that
others as well as myself may learn.
Premium sinc 6-17-04
There are people running boost with 180* and OEM thermostats already . You could probably get by when running boost but it would probably be better to drop the money and pick up a better radiator . Something like a aluminum 4 pass . Possibly ditching the single factory fan and replacing it with two 12" pusher fans mounted on the front of the radiator .
When I get my car running and get the turbo on that will be the route I go . That way the engine will still reach its operating temp and will still cool off when I get into it .
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
Just put some Redline Water Wetter in the coolant, and your car will suffer far less from heat soak, yet run at the normal operating temp. It does however take a while to get up to operating temp if you live somewhere with cold winters (and none of this sissy skiff of snow winters, I'm talking -30C)
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
For Sale:
'01 SFGT springs $50CAN
Getrag '00-'02 2.4 8000kms $800
Im glad nobody is saying that the 2.4 came with a 195 like in previous posts. pay 500+ and get your computer reflashed for a 160t-stat that would make it worth it... But to tell you the truth i always thought that if your 02 sensors where all warmed up then it would come outa open loop mode regardless of eng temp but it all makes sense though
Mr Goodwrench wrote:It will open before the car reaches the operating temp. that the PCM is calibrated for . The PCM will think the car is always warming up . The PCM will be firing longer pulses to the injectors causing you to waste that much more fuel . It is just tricking the PCM into running richer longer . You would get the same benefit is if you were to totally remove the thermostat .
A 180* thermostat is all you need in the car or even the OEM replacement will work just as good . That way your car reaches it's operating temp faster saving you money at the pump .
The car will go out of "warm up mode" before the thermostat (160) opens. I plan to put a 160 in my turbo Z, it justes gets too hot too quick with the turbo. I could see on a all motor car it causing problems with it running rough wihile still wamring up. Just because the stat opens at 160 does not mean the car will not get hotter.
FU Tuning
Car will enter closed loop about 5mins after its started. i dont see a problem running a 160 degree thermostat, the car doesnt care it will adjust accordingly. it begins reading the sensors once the O2 is heated up.
Chase wrote:Car will enter closed loop about 5mins after its started. i dont see a problem running a 160 degree thermostat, the car doesnt care it will adjust accordingly. it begins reading the sensors once the O2 is heated up.
actually your wrong , it does cause problems , my friend cooked his cat ,and got really bad milage
with out reprograming to comensate for it , its a waste of time and money
I ran my Ho without a thermo and a new cooling system and the temps wsas not going up. Result - I was wasting alot of gas and the performance wasn't better. That's a thing you can't ignore. Use a 180+ thermostat. If it overheat, check the rest. IE-Water pump, coolant, radiator.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
so does the reflash just make the engine run colder? jbp is good place to get that right?
AkA joe m.
Ricer ELIMINATOR!
New Picture comming this summer.
If operating temps are the issue, why not check out the oil cooler kits on turbotechracing.com. They are claiming upto 40 degree cooler. I'm not sure if this would lead to the same problems above, but I know there have been some days this summer when i wish i had 40 less degrees.
Does it go faster?
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™)]
Chase wrote:Car will enter closed loop about 5mins after its started. i dont see a problem running a 160 degree thermostat, the car doesnt care it will adjust accordingly. it begins reading the sensors once the O2 is heated up.
actually your wrong , it does cause problems , my friend cooked his cat ,and got really bad milage
with out reprograming to comensate for it , its a waste of time and money
Yes he is wrong, but I'm pretty sure the car enters closed loop before 160. For me, or people with turbo set ups a 160 will not effect the car. Wut that turbo sitting behind the motor it heats up alot, and quick.
Quote:
If operating temps are the issue, why not check out the oil cooler kits on turbotechracing.com. They are claiming upto 40 degree cooler. I'm not sure if this would lead to the same problems above, but I know there have been some days this summer when i wish i had 40 less degrees.
I have a oil cooler already, do not see a difference in engine temps with it, but see a difference in the oil lasting longer.
FU Tuning
I havnt had a prob with the 160. the car still will climb up to temp when it idles so i just used the cooling fan override to take care of that. i did have a problem with running rich but i found out it was the p.o.s bosch platinum 4 plugs. the 160 definatly made no performance increase its only good for keeping temps down and if you live in a really cold climate i could see where it could cause probs in winter.
