what model/year did they come on and what work will have to be done to get it to work on a jbody?
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
and you wouldnt be able to hook up just the required wires for your a/f ratio to what needs to be hooked up to for the engine, then use the remaining two wires to power an a/f gauge? or something
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
Nope, the wideband O2 sensor is a 12v switch, the stock one is 0-1volt. If you hook it up, you'd burn out your computer. You'd need the controller to convert it to the narrowband signal, the narrowband output on commercial products comes from the controller, not the sensor.
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Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
actually its a 5v signal but yes still way too much for the stock computer to hold
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
AFAIK, the Wide Band O2 sensors used on Honda cars are made by NTK. There is a DIY kit available to use the one from the 92 - 95 Civic VX 1.5 (except California) at
http://www.diy-wb.com . This sensor is marked L1H1 and there is plenty of info on the web about this kit (and the Australian copycat kit which violates the original designers' intentions). I've been using my DIY-WB O2 sensor for 3 or 4 years without major trouble.
There are other Honda/ Acura cars using wide band O2 sensors, but they are not compatible with the diy kit above. These sensors are not marked L1H1. The list of cars includes the following:
Acura MDX 2003 V6 3.5L Uses two pre-cat WB sensors
Bosch: Honda:
front: 15402 36531-RDJ-A01
rear: 15401 36531-RCA-A01
Honda Accord 2003 V6 3.0L (VTEC??, see below) Uses two of the same sensor
Bosch: Honda:
15401 36531-RCA-A01
Honda Civic 1996-2000 L4 1.6L HX M/T
Bosch: Honda:
13025 36531-P2M-A01
Honda Insight 2000 L3 1.0L
Bosch: Honda:
15393 36531-PHM-A01
The NTK wide band O2 sensor does not produce a 12V switching output, nor does it produce a 0-5V signal. This wide band O2 sensor requires a special driver which monitors the current passing through the sensor while output voltage is maintained at a constant level. The driver circuitry can be designed to produce a 0-5V signal, or any other signal desired. The advantage with a 0-5V or 0-12V signal is that it can be routed through the ECM for data collection or as the main fuel system feedback device if the code were modified enough. In Other Words, it doesn't just plug into the ecm in place of the regular O2 sensor
HTH
-->Slow
Unless there is something I'm in the woods about i don't see the point of a wide band. This is is because your factory ECM only looks at O2 cross counts, basically it is only counting how many times the O2 produces above and below 450 mV. The ECM could really care less what is going on above and below the cross counts.
If I understand Honda's Wide band correctly, it is being used for calculating cylinder misfire. I don't remember the details of why they are using this instead of the crank sensor, so shoot me on this one.
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The point of the wideband is very simple. The wideband allows more precise tuning. Sure, we can tune the car to run, and if we're good we can tune it to not blow up. But can we tune to to lean best power, or to obtain a reliable lean cruise? And does our ecm allow us enough range to try and self tune our combination, or is it going to puke up rich/ lean codes because our combination of parts isn't quite good enough to work with the computer?
Most of you guys running OBDII are missing out on what tuning the factory parameters really allows. The wideband reports actual AFR, and with it you can alter the volumetric efficiency tables as well as the power enrichment and acceleration enrichment values for a modified engine. The correct amount of fuel can be delivered at all times. No more guessing based on factory O2 readings, no more drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold and routing an EGT gauge, just install the wide band in place of the stock sensor and tune the open loop calibration values based on what the sensor shows. No more rich running when cold, failed emissions tests, black smoke at idle, CEL, fouled plugs after several cold starts in a row, hesitation on rapid throttle opening, stalling after fast downshift or coastdown. IOW, you can make the car driveable like when it was new.
With correctly designed code, you could go a step farther and use the vehicle computer to provide closed loop fuel control in all cases. No more hoping the engine sees a 12:1 AFR under boost. You'd tell the ecm that you want 12:1 and it will adjust fuel delivery based on the WBO2 feedback to ensure the AFR stays at 12:1. For a long cruise, you could tell it to drop to a 15:1 AFR for lean operation and better mileage, and it would oblige. You could even write custom code to do like the big $$ aftermarket computers... self tuning based on WBO2 feedback. Imagine being able to drive around for a week or two doing nothing more than running the car and have 80-90% of the calibration work done for you! But I suppose you guys will need to get to a point where you can just see factory calibration paramaters before you can really appreciate this possibility.
-->Slow
I understand the OBD2 data stream, I have enough of an understanding about different blocks that the PCM has. But how do you change fuel delivery with out a after aftermarket fuel management system? I've used TECH2, HI SCAN, OTC, the red brick and modus. None of these tools let you change any parameters, you can just view live data. So I guess my question is what do you tune?
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Quote:
So I guess my question is what do you tune?
I said "...you OBDII guys are missing out" because I'm using an OBDI ecm.
There's guys working on OBDII as we speak. Hopefully they will come through for the J community.
But the tech2 will let you change some minor paramaters if you have the correct software.
-->Slow
well with the soft ware gm give the dealer it will only let you rest fuel trim. You can change parameters by re flashing the pcm, but they are not custom and gm releases them to fix bugs. So what is this TECH 2 software you are speaking of?
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tech 2 is what you use to prgram an ecu its a tool gm uses
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:tech 2 is what you use to prgram an ecu its a tool gm uses
I know that, but what I'm asking is what "software" slowolej talking about for setting custom parameters? I've never heard of its, yes I know you can do a GM recalibration with the TIS software. But I've never heard of setting custom parameters.
By the way with OTC scanner your can flash GM PCM too, its the only aftermarket scanner that can at this point.
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Resetting the fuel trim is part of the scantool function. Non GM scantools will do the same thing.
Depending on the particular vehicle, you can do things like enable/ disable DRL, enable/ disable functions of the content security system (this is why I said "minor parameters"). This is (or was) part of Techline, accessed through the SPS menu. This may not be available to OTC owners, and recent revisions of GM's dealer software may have changed what dealer techs are allowed to do.
With a valid reason, it is sometimes possible for dealership techs to call GM and get an engineering number which allows calibration of the speedometer for different size wheels/ tires. Again, this is vehicle specific and may or may not apply to a specific year J car. At one time you could flash a manual trans car as an auto, or flash a newer car with an older calibration, but recent revisions to the dealer software removed most of this flexibility.
There is no calibration software available at the technician level which allows any emissions related parameters to be adjusted individually. There is too much liability involved.
-->Slow
