I received A waring for selling in this forum. I hope this is ok?

So all I am saying is If your are interested in this item, to simply send me an Email to discuss this further more. Ken52307@yahoo.com



You must send me an Email for me to respond to you, I can not use this Forum!!

JBO does have a CLASSIFIED section. try there



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

I am most likely going to use Ebay, but i figured I would share witht he org. I am not starting some big business, just doing it for fun, then i move on.

Nobody checks the classifieds anymore.

My Cars slower than your Car!! wrote:Nobody checks the classifieds anymore.

True.



^^Home made sig^^ ghetto, I know. http://members.cardomain.com/blackoutfire

bolt-on braces are damn useless anyways *shrugs* if they are not welded solid for the whole length they just flex and it does absolutly nothing.


_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

You obviously don't know what your talking about.

Strut braces work without being welded on their entire length. A subframe brace, if made out of proper materials, will work without being welded (you can't even weld across since there is a 2' GAP).

I think a subframe brace made out of .125 - .250 thick rectangular steel tube would be plenty strong enough.

Manitoba Motorsports wrote:bolt-on braces are damn useless anyways *shrugs* if they are not welded solid for the whole length they just flex and it does absolutly nothing.

Obviously you've never tried one, or looked at how the subframe was set up on our cars. We benefit greatly from these things, welded on or bolted on. Not sure how something bolted on flex's more than something that isn't anyway, they all get attached extremely securely.





4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!

Hell most of your Suspension is bolted on stock. Bolt on braces, and supports help alot. I have a base cavalier, and with these bolt on I have made my car handle a great deal better. Try them before you knock them.

how many of these do you plan on making?

ROFL, I've done enough custom fabrication in my lifetime so far than you'll ever see or know about...
I know J-bodies very well and i know racing and the twisting forces that can be seen. in many applications, i have seen uni-bodies flex so much its blown the back glass out of the car, popped trunks open and buckled 1/4 panels.

I know i might have over exadurated abit on them being junk, fact is that if you really think about it (And i've seen it) they have the ability to flex quite easily unless welded in. anything is better than stock, but not to the full extent. especially not with 3/8" bolts




_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

how about rivits?

I dont plan on making a whole lot of them. I mean if there is an interest in them, then i will produce them.

personally i wouldn't want it welded, if you ever had to pull the trans you'd have to pull the enitre subframe off with it

Quote:

personally i wouldn't want it welded, if you ever had to pull the trans you'd have to pull the enitre subframe off with it

Good point.
Even simple auto trans fluid change/flush would be a headache.

At least for us daily driving folks.

-M


Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.

Darkstars wrote:personally i wouldn't want it welded, if you ever had to pull the trans you'd have to pull the enitre subframe off with it

wrong, we got my trans out with my subframe brace in

btw those bolts look really wimpy...



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Yea I know those bolts looked weak, I have since then Changed them. I am using Grade 8 bolts, and nuts. I will have to update the pics. I wish there was an edit.

Quote:

I am using Grade 8 bolts, and nuts.

Go crazy, use ARP bolts.


-M


Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.

instead of the aluminum tubing how much more would stainless steel cost. lets' see aluminum or stainless steel.
aluminum- lighter, might break, cost less.
stainless steel- little heavier (don't quote me on that), cost more, won't break.

giive me an e-mail at mdw_9_83@hotmail.com an see what u think.

Mike Wilson

why do people think aluminum is so weak? is it the pop can thing? you do know that what they make the little black boxes in airplanes out of, and they always survive. theres is a big difference between a can that was made with being recycled in mind and something that was made with industrial applications in mind. if theres anyone here who is going to be going high rates of speed for extended periods of time, then they most likely will not be driving a cavalier. and is its "based" on a cavalier you can be sure that there is allot more than a brace bolted or welded on. the bar that i have apperes to be more heavy duty than the one above. but i think it boils downt to tuning your suspention to where you want it.

<img src="http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/221/221110/folders/176882/1478116bwalumsfb.gif" width="436" height="286">

<img src="http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/221/221110/folders/176882/1478120aluminnd.gif" width="470" height="394">

I made my own a few months ago, around the same time i posted interest in pics of the HD sub frame brace. Now i use rubber gaskets to eliminate any possible squeels and Grade 8 bolts with thread locker. I will say it made a little differance from stock without a sway bar, but feels so much better with the swaybar.


Fact 1:


“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.

Manitoba Motorsports wrote: in many applications, i have seen uni-bodies flex so much its blown the back glass out of the car, popped trunks open and buckled 1/4 panels.

I have to threadjack this... What "applications" are you talking about? You would have to be doing some serious baja's for that kind of twisting. I don't know anyone that does REAL racing with a unibody anyways. Everyone always uses a tube frame.

the aluminum is going to have to be a whole lot more thick than a steel brace. and why drop the damn engine out the bottom? i've always pulled them from the top much much easier in my books.

Using grade 8 bolts or not, unless you have some crazy ass bracing inbehind them you're only grabbing a small surface with the bolt. even with a fender washer on each side thats only 1-2" of metal over the whole length your grabbing. If your too cheap to weld it in solid atleast weld it in partially, or be redneck and pop rivit it with some race rivits along with the bolts.. atleast then it will have some strength.

Cinny, that "pop" can effect is flex, your making these to be solid not to flex.


_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

Okay, we all know that all cars have a twisting motion, But I'll tell you right now your going to have to try reall f%$#ing hard to pop the rear glass out, or bend your 1/4 panel on a front wheel drive CAVALEIR... If you are doing something that can cause that in a cavi you either already wrecked your car fliping it over off a damn bridge or you already are serious enough to have a full role cage and full redone and tuned suspension. And I would really like to see someone have a front wheel drive car launch so hard with so much torque that you pop out your rear window... A small bolt on can go a long way on a car that weighs 2800 lbs !

Some people really need to think about the aplication b4 they say something or nothing but will come out.

P.S. Ken you don't plan on dropping a 454 and changeing it to rear wheel drive right? No okay then you should be okay. Your window will still be there tommorrow.

^^LOL I am shooting to have my 2200 in the 800hp range by spring j/k

Guys I know that welding, and adding roll cages is the best, etc. I am offering a BOLT on brace to IMPROVE handling, and eliminate wheel hop some what. I am not trying to make the SUPER DUPER ONE OF A KIND MUST HAVE SUPPORT BRACE. If you don't think its your cup of tea then thats you, and your intitled to your opinion. But do not come on here and say it does absolutely nothing.