im in the process of putting a new rksport lower motor mount on and well i have my car jacked up its all set but i cant get the damn bolt that holds the motor mount off...i have already SHATTERED a 15mm CRAFTSMAN socket trying to pry this thing off...any help?

Try taking off the bolt end that's on the other side. You're probably trying to take off the welded side.

Quote:

Originally posted by -JaysonZ24-
like i said if i pull up to the line and want to race
a guy, 4000 RPMS arent nearly as intimidating as 7000 rpms

lol no i was trying the bolt...it broke one of my impact sockets....i took it to sears and had them exchange it for free then came back and started at it again and it finally came off... and i got the new motor mount put in...nice change if you ask me

yea those bolts can be hard my problem was using only a short rachet...no torque



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85

i used a hammer and a wrench to get mine off



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

wow huge difference between the rksport mount and my broken factory one haha

what all did u do when jacking up the car to take the lower mount off did u jack up the motor to take thw weight off the mount i know u jacked up the car to get to it wondering the whole procedure to get the mount off i have mine sitting in my car


<img src="http://ourworld.cs.com/FireNv3/eco1.jpg">

Jack up car, support on jack stands. Take the passenger side wheel off.
Remove the passenger wheel well cover.
The mount is held in place by (2) 15mm bolts. Remove
them, and remove stock mount.
Insert your new RK Sport mount and line up one hole, insert bolt, tighten a bit.
Now, take your sacrificial screwdriver and line up the second hole. I put the bolt in once the one side was close, and then used a hammer to tap it through. Then simply reinstall the nut, and you're done.

these are the instructions from teamforwardmotion.com

heres my added 2 cents

make sure you jack up the whole front end of the car and put it on jack stands...this way the engine is level. after jacking up the front end place the jack under the oil pan with a board on top of it that should be about 2 feet long and about 6 inches wide or so...big enough to even distribute the pressure across the oil pan so you dont bust it..after removing the passenger wheel and wheel well cover... jack the jack that is under the oil pan up just enough to take the pressure off of the motor mount...using your 15mm wrench ( helps soooooooo sooooooo sooooo much to use an impact wrench trust me..you will be there forever if you dont use air tools) take off the 2 bolts holding the motor mount in place....if the ecotechs are anything like my 96 then the nuts on the back will not come off because they are welded on so you dont have to worry about reinstalling the nuts when your done... pull the factory motor mount out and place the larger end of new motor mount in the slot towards the back of the engine( the bracket thats attached to the car) and line up the hole.....it helps to use a deadblow hammer to tape it in there....then put the bolt in and use your impact wrench to once again to tighten it...then line up the other end with the other hole the best you can ( on the bracket that is attached to the engine)..there should be a little bit of the whole on the motor mount showing thru the whole on the bracket . take your flat head screw driver and stick it into the whole on the motor mount the best you can and then just pry at it untill the 2 holes line up...it should move and line up pretty easily..then place your other bolt in and put the wheel and wheel well cover on and lower your car. and your done...install time - with air tools approximately 30 minutes or so...hope this helps

you could just jack up the side your dealing with, cut the plastic crap in your way (ghetto way) and then just remove the bolts, and put the new one in.

and then duct tape it all together!!


Signatures Are Silly....

lol hell i didnt even do have that, i pulled the car in the garage crawled up underneather the car with a 15mm socket 1/2" rachet took the mount down hung one side of the other mount went to swivel it into place (RSM Racing MM) wouldnt fit had to take it back off grind a small portion (was to wide) went to put it back the 2nd hole wouldnt line up so i go from under the car pushed the car fwd (still in park) which causes the motor to rock as the trans tries to hold park, pulled the ebrake and got back under the car and viola bolt lined up n went about my day.... woah nice vibration feels all tingly at 2k-3k


The Mods
Mostly the bolt-ons: Greddy Type 31 Fmic, Chipped (Stock, 93 octane, Testpipe),
3" TurboBack/Catless, CAI, N75-J, 4bar FPR, Cranked Wastegate, Colder Plugs, 4.7V Diode
Mod, Forge 007 Diverter Valve (Yellow 20lb spring), N249 Bypass:
250whp/300ftlbs Tq & Stock clutch dying

But more impressive is my Replacement List:
<55K Miles: 4-OxS, 2-Thr. Body, 3-MAFs, 1- MAPs, 4-Coil Packs, 2-Sets Of Plugs,
1-Water Pump, 15-Visits to the stealership, 80-CELS/EPC/Combinations, 1- APR
Chip ReBurn, 2-Heated Seat Switches, 1-Pass Seat Cover, 1-Suction Pump, 15'-Vac Line.
Finally CEL Free and love'in my 1.8t. Yea i drive a VW

put it on stands and you can us the flange to support the engine as well just be ccarefulthat you ddon'tblock the way your pputtingin the mount and taking the old one out. and son;t let ttheengine shift while your doing or if you do just remember where it was before you moved it. wobbly Lil sucker w/o the mount.

I just turned my wheel and used a 15mm wrench and a hammer, I didn't even have to jack my car up. I felt ghetto

You don't have to take the wheel off, etc. Just jack up the front of the car (if you're lowered) and just use a wrench to take out the two bolts. I would say it's not much harder than taking out the drain plug in your oil pan.

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

meh i just figured id rather be safe than sorry

all i did was take my wheel off put a block under my oil pan and 10 minutes later i was back on the road..


beer is like a chick.. well not really its just beer, it be cool thou huh?

what is the benefit of putting in a lower and upper motor mount? to rduce the engine from twisting/binding?

The RKSport High Performance Engine Mount eliminates play in your OE mount maximizing torque and the transfer of energy to the driveline.

all i did was put the car up on a lift. was done in 10 mins. now i heard its a good idea when putting the upper mount on to support the engine. can anyone back this up? i'm about to do the upper mount here shortly.


Cost of mods: $2500
Number of headaches: Too many to count
Look on your face when you realize you got beat by a Cavalier: Priceless

yes support it! always!


beer is like a chick.. well not really its just beer, it be cool thou huh?

lower mount = 2 minuets (using my impact gun that puts out 1,000 ft/lbs or toque, came out nice and easy) and yes surpor6t the engine for the upper mount

Don't support the engine for the upper mount. It will rest on the rubber. I just did mine yesterday. I will have pics and a short write-up for an install shortly. However, Darkstars may be right for the Ecotec mount. I have no idea how the Ecotec's mounts work.







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