Hey all,
I have read about spun bearings n stuff from our 2.4, and part of the cause is from the oil shifting in the pan from hard left hand turns. I do alot of Solo2 and am thinking next year to get into solo1.
Now.. it there someone out there who has develped a racing oil pan with the dividers in the pan to help keep the oil from shifting so much.
i tried searching on this site but my results were crap... and i did try a few different searches.
thanks
do your research. you can put a bit more oil or get a 2.3 pump.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
i read up on the 2.3 pump... if i'm not mistaken dosen't that require some block mods n stuff. i'm looking for an easy replacement... i try another search i guess.
thanks
if im not mistaken, karo has a custom pan on his car, but then again i may be thinkin wrong. Lata man.
3800 series II supercharged swap in progress
Not now, but someday!
his is modified for the 2.3 oil pump
no one makes a pan for the 2.4
also the balance shafts are part of the oil pump system , so it is very hard to make a custom pan around the balance shafts
best is to do the 2.3 set up and then you can chanel the oil to stay around the pick up
This site was listing something for that but the site is in construction.
http://www.millerperformance.com/
or best bet to ask Karo who know this guy.
if the guy come out with this product for real he will be richer
zouiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
-What's that noise?
-nutting, it's just my neighbour racing can (read civic).
Like most have said all ready^^
Just top off oil level and you'll be fine (right where the "F" starts on the dip stick). I recomend a racing oil as well, since those solo runs can be be cruel on engines internals.
This occurs when you are missing more than a quart of oil. Something will break with any engine when there is not suffient oil in the engine itself.
Have fun.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Thanks all for the help. I contacted Karo and yes he does have the 2.3 pan modded with the 2.3 pump.
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Like most have said all ready^^
Just top off oil level and you'll be fine (right where the "F" starts on the dip stick). I recomend a racing oil as well, since those solo runs can be be cruel on engines internals.
This occurs when you are missing more than a quart of oil. Something will break with any engine when there is not suffient oil in the engine itself.
Have fun.
I'm currently using mobil 1 for my car, and i alway check and top up before the races. Do you recomend another oil? keep in mind this is a daily driver as well. I heard that there are some racing oils that aren't good for daily drivers.
again thanks for all the info... if anyone else has any comments feel free
Quote:
I'm currently using mobil 1 for my car, and i alway check and top up before the races. Do you recomend another oil? keep in mind this is a daily driver as well. I heard that there are some racing oils that aren't good for daily drivers.
Stay with Mobil 1 - its one of (if not the best) Synthetic motor oil you can buy. Its factory fill in Corvette, Viper, Porsche, Mercedes AMG, as well as others, so you know it has to be damn good
Just keep using Mobil 1, and make sure the oil is always topped off to "F", as the others mentioned. That should give you the best protection from oil starvation, as well as keep your engine running like new. There's still no guarantee that something won't happen, but thats the fault of the engine design, not the oil itself - if you want to be completely protected, you would have to upgrade to the 2.3 oil system, which can be expensive and time consuming.
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You are doing the right thing in topping of the oil.
Mobil 1 synthetic is very very good. You can always try Royal Purple too 5w30. It is about $1 more per quart. I am running this now with a Duralube additive. I have always had good results with Duralube. [URL=www.motion-plus.com]Another good additive I've used[/URL] I have seen what it can do in many tests with my very own eyes, let me say I was shocked.
Mobil 1has also has 0w40. I think this will work best for you. When the engine is cold the oil is thin and lubricates perfectly for start up. But as temperature rises it will lubricate like 40 grade which is thicker and pistons will be lubricated properly, especially in racing. Less chance of oil burning as well with 40 grade.
Good luck
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
hey thanks for all the info guys..
i think i may have found a somewhat solution to exactly what i was taling about...
check it out
baffle inserts for stock oil pan
this is what i have been talking about all this time
what do you think about that idea?
those would be nice , but you have to have a steel oil pan , not a cast aluminum pan
LOL damn i never knew the 2.4 was cast aluminum
well now thats a set back.... unless i can get that kit made in aluminum.
the journey continues
well it would set you back some money.. if it's possible. but if you bought the kit in steel.. and took it to a fab place.. and they could fab you up something in aluminum possibly. I woudl check with them and print off a pic to take with you so they can get an idea of whut they'll be working with. That might be a very possible scenario for you.. but could cost you the first inital pruchase of the steel set & fab.. but then if others are looking for somethign similar you could haev more aluminum ones made and sell them for a small proffit
Faith is to believe what you do not see; the reward of this faith is to see what you believe.
-Saint Augustine
^^^^ true
something to look into this summer... might look for another 2.4 pan and see what i can do...
but after talking with Karo it looks like that this is going to become a bit $$$. so for the time being i think that i'll stick to topping up my oil for the races and see what happens.
like i said before the balance shaft assembly is rather large and takes up 70% of the oil pan
id even use a little more oil than required , not alot more just a little more
does anyone have any pics of this???
what this all looks like because i have no clue.... Incase you haven't already noticed
i kinda had figured that
unfortunatly i never took pics of my motor when the pan was off
there has to be others with pics of the balance shafts
I remember a while ago seeing someone posted that they had a custom moroso pan. I don't know if they just adapted that kit that you posted, but on the moroso web page, there is a section where they will do a custom pan for you. If you call them up for a quote, I would be very interested to hear how much it costs.
http://www.moroso.com/photo_gallery.asp
that sounds like a plan.. but still... it looks like i'll need a dry sump set up... but i'll see if they can just do the baffles...
baffle wont help for starvation at high RPM tough.
The product karo has would be your best bet if you solo1.
160USD for the modified pan + the pump + a new head gasket is not that pricey to be sure you dont blow anything or starve your motor of oil.
zouiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
-What's that noise?
-nutting, it's just my neighbour racing can (read civic).
As all have said keep the oil filled and you will be fine. The spun rod bearings have not been from hard cornering, but low oil, and lack of passage to the number #3 bearing. This is nothing baffles, or a pan will help. But modifing passages in the motor. I have owned 4 2.4's, 2 96's, a 97, and a 2001. Only one of those spun a rod bearing. It had a 129k on it when it happened, and I was not driving the car, so do not know what started it. All the other runs synthic oil in them with no problems. I do a lot of racing (drag mostly), and no problems. Keep your oil filled. I also run a different oil filter than stock and slighly over fill it.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:As all have said keep the oil filled and you will be fine. The spun rod bearings have not been from hard cornering, but low oil, and lack of passage to the number #3 bearing. This is nothing baffles, or a pan will help. But modifing passages in the motor. I have owned 4 2.4's, 2 96's, a 97, and a 2001. Only one of those spun a rod bearing. It had a 129k on it when it happened, and I was not driving the car, so do not know what started it. All the other runs synthic oil in them with no problems. I do a lot of racing (drag mostly), and no problems. Keep your oil filled. I also run a different oil filter than stock and slighly over fill it.
what oil filter do you run? if you don't mind me asking
AC Delco PF59, PF52 I will have to look. It is longer than stock.
FU Tuning
