Well tonight at the arcade, I won $1200 playing keno. I'm really wanting to beef up my engine. I'm driving a 2k Sunfire auto with the LD9 and 100k miles on it. Right now I have an AEM intake, Pacesetter header, Magnaflow catback and Prothayne engine mounts. I also have a B&M shiftplus and both RSM pulleys in my trunk waiting go on. I'm also getting my TB & IM ported out when I do the pulleys. I'm considering buying the head off of RSM with the harder valves, valve springs, P&P, and a valve job. I was also considering getting the JBP stage 2 cams and lifters with it. Now the questions:
1. Would buying all of that take care of the entire vavle train?
2. Would I need to do any more mods (fuel or ignition) for this setup to work properly?
3. Is it retarded to do the entire valvetrain and not touch the pistons or rods?
Drop me any info you can on any of this. As always, thanks for your help. If I hadn't found this site, I probably would have never started modding my J.
Larry wrote:Next time some dork revs his engine, just sit there smile, and when the light turns green blow his F#@*IN doors off. He will leave you alone after that.
BTW, I realize $1200 isn't going to buy all of this, it's just a good foundation to start with.
Larry wrote:Next time some dork revs his engine, just sit there smile, and when the light turns green blow his F#@*IN doors off. He will leave you alone after that.
time for some suspension. i think that with that many miles i would do both upper and lower end of the engine.
but i say suspension and breaks then power.but this is just my thoughts
see ya!
the RSM head will be a pretty decent gain, as well as the stage 2 cam. that's going to give you more high-end power. but honestly, my best advice would be to stick to things keeping your low to mid end power up after you do all that. there's no point in trying to make a motor that redlines at 6260 a high-RPM motor.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
i would suggest doing a 5 speed swap
It's a Pontiac Chevrolet Cavfire Sunalier GTLS!!
What would you reccommend to keep the lower and midrange hp up then?
Larry wrote:Next time some dork revs his engine, just sit there smile, and when the light turns green blow his F#@*IN doors off. He will leave you alone after that.
Dr Mengele wrote:Well tonight at the arcade, I won $1200 playing keno. I'm really wanting to beef up my engine. I'm driving a 2k Sunfire auto with the LD9 and 100k miles on it. Right now I have an AEM intake, Pacesetter header, Magnaflow catback and Prothayne engine mounts. I also have a B&M shiftplus and both RSM pulleys in my trunk waiting go on. I'm also getting my TB & IM ported out when I do the pulleys. I'm considering buying the head off of RSM with the harder valves, valve springs, P&P, and a valve job. I was also considering getting the JBP stage 2 cams and lifters with it. Now the questions:
1. Would buying all of that take care of the entire vavle train?
2. Would I need to do any more mods (fuel or ignition) for this setup to work properly?
3. Is it retarded to do the entire valvetrain and not touch the pistons or rods?
Drop me any info you can on any of this. As always, thanks for your help. If I hadn't found this site, I probably would have never started modding my J.
just one question, what kind of arcade do you go to? i want in?
I would invest in motor mounts and a wet nitrous kit and call it a day. If you want the best gains for the money, you really can't beat it. $1200 is too much to spend on a motor without a full build or boost/nitrous. I just can't see it being worth the gains unless you are going to invest it to go allll the way.
55-75 wet shot and stick the rest in a jar.
Cardomain|
Myspace
on the head subject tho that part of the vavle train is what determines the "red line" so with them it would rev higher.
mostly true, but i think other components are taken into account when the red line is determined. an engine has lots of moving spinning stuff and making it move faster than it was designed to do is always asking for trouble. regardless, how would you change the rev limit set in the ignition system?
save up another 1,000 bucks or go play more keno. Then buy the Gm supercharger package.
2006 Black Cobalt SS Supercharged G85
13.91@102.77
97racecavy wrote:on the head subject tho that part of the vavle train is what determines the "red line" so with them it would rev higher.
That "red line" is just where GM felt it would be safe for the valve train and bottom end would survive the longest with the cheaper mass produced parts they use. GM programed the ECU to limit the motor to 6250 RPM(6000 RPM on the 2.2/2200's), thats why if you try to take it past that RPM, the rev limiter kicks in and the motor starts sputtering and bucking. The stock valve train will rev higher, but longevity becomes an issue, as well as liability.
BTW, IMO if you plan on doing further mods to the powertrain to get more power, at 100k miles, I would start looking at building the bottom end stronger first. It won't do you no good to build a powerful motor on the top end just to have the bottom end break.
My 2 cents worth.
LGO my eggo (Josh Roberts) wrote:I would invest in motor mounts and a wet nitrous kit and call it a day. If you want the best gains for the money, you really can't beat it. $1200 is too much to spend on a motor without a full build or boost/nitrous. I just can't see it being worth the gains unless you are going to invest it to go allll the way.
55-75 wet shot and stick the rest in a jar.
^^ I agree ^^
that's definalty more bang for your buck that you can see the most results out of.. but make sure you buy all the safetly accessories for whutever kit you buy, Like WOT & the fuel pressure switch that can save your motor if something should arrise and go wrong. I will soon be running a Wet 50 shot EFI into my 2.4 and im making sure that ALL the extra things that can save my motor will be bought & installed to prevent to all my abilitys of somethign happening to my motor.
But it is the bet bang for your buck! If you do any engine mods.. Pistons.. maybe a bore (pending which direction you want to take the motor.. ie turbo) and rods, mayeb thena P& P w/ a valve job.. it's always nice to have one of those, so i hear
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You know what Id suggest? Id suggest looking into changing your nickname. Im both offended and disgusted that youd use the name of a Holocaust Butcher of a Doctor, known for his horribly grotesque experiments and operations as your userID on this site. Granted, this aint the place for it, but I was really appalled at your lack of tact, taste, and sensitivity to such a horrific event.
