Hey,

I'm thinking of pulling my head off my motor. I want to port and polish it. How long does it take to unhook everything and pull the head off. Im just curious if anyone wants to help me one weekend and ill supply some food and beer.

thanks

I found a local shop that will port and polish it for $250. I just need to get it off my motor and take it into them.

Well, you have to remove the rockers, the push rods, and the lifters and some brackets. then you have to put it all back on, which you will need to adjust your valves once you get it back on. i would take it to a shop if your not absolutley sure of what you are doing.

well ive done everything on my car from body work to paint, so im sure i can figure it out.

Im going to check out the 2200 rockers too, and upgrade mine

well actually the only valve train component u have to remove are the push rods. You can take every thing off inside the head as one unit. Just unbolt the head bolts and remove. But chances are it's going to be slightly fused to the bock so ur gonna need to wack at it with a rubber mallet. Be sure to drain the fluids as well! U wont need to adjust anything unless of coarse u move them for some reason. TO be safe put the rods back in the same slot they came in because of wear patterns.




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thanks danny for letting me know. Me and labora are going to do it. Were going to pull it off and pull the tb off as well. Im going to port and polish both of them. I will also get some roller rockers too when im doing this. This should help me add a few more horses to my car. In a few months ill be painting my car also and getting it back on the road. Im going to start wetsanding the whole car since the taillights are finally finished. Im just ready to finish the damm thing and start saving for my turbo.

Danny-What have you been up too lately?

full kitted, is the shop in dfw



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oh yea u gotta remove ur intake manifold as well. Thats a tight squeeze. Lots to take apart. let me know when u are gonna do it i'll see what i can do to come out and help.




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alright cool greenfire, we can get pizza and drink a few beers, all on ME. I got labora coming out too, just have to pick a date that both of you could come out.

I got port n polish should cost more than $250

sounds like all hes gonna do is a port match... which isn't really worth it

go to a shop experienced with race engins and get an aggressive port n polish, 5 angle valve job, buy new stainless steel valves from karo for $100 with free shipping

if you go really crazy upgrade the pushrods, springs, retainers, locks, and rockers too

Howell automotive, Jbody performance are your best friends when it comes to OHV valvetrain components

my port cost $950 from a well respected race shop, if you factor in all the parts I had to buy to it was roughly $1300 but I dropped .5 in the 1/4 mile with no other mods other than the head port.

well you got ripped off. I found a local guy that owns his own shop. He said if i pull everything and just bring in the head, he would do it for $250, and prolly another $100 for the tb, plus the cost of new roller rockers. So ill have some cash into it.

and BTW, I WILL BE DOIGN PORT AND POLISH FOR THAT PRICE.

full kitted sunfire wrote:well you got ripped off. I found a local guy that owns his own shop. He said if i pull everything and just bring in the head, he would do it for $250, and prolly another $100 for the tb, plus the cost of new roller rockers. So ill have some cash into it.

and BTW, I WILL BE DOIGN PORT AND POLISH FOR THAT PRICE.

I dunno he probably didn't get ripped. When you add in a 5 angle valve job, and race spec P&P + putting all the parts together price goes up quick. For 250$ the guy is probably just going to do a street/mild P&P, port match, and match it to your intake. A 5 angle valve job and and some serious headwork cost big bucks. Then again not like 2.2 guys have alot of options for aftermarket heads or anything so what yah gonna do..



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Quote:

full kitted sunfire
Yesterday 11:53 PM

well you got ripped off. I found a local guy that owns his own shop. He said if i pull everything and just bring in the head, he would do it for $250, and prolly another $100 for the tb, plus the cost of new roller rockers. So ill have some cash into it.

and BTW, I WILL BE DOIGN PORT AND POLISH FOR THAT PRICE.

right... whats that mantra? cheap or fast?

owning your own machine shop doesn't mean that you specialize in race engines... which happens to be the forte of the place I went.

I don't think I got ripped off...

not only did i get a port and polish, i got a 5 angle valve job, new valves installed, race springs, chromoly retainers and locks, all the mating surfaces got resurfaced, and the head was cleaned, and spec'd for flatness since I warped it (doh)

not saying $250 isn't a good price because it is a good price, but instead of going to a generic machine shop you may want to goto one that specializes in performance.

The price may be a bit more... it might be a lot more, but why waste all that time pulling the head, having down time on the car to get 10hp with a mild port job? go nuts... spend a lil extra money... make that head capable of withstanding ANYTHING you throw at it (nitrous or boost)

BEFORE


AFTER

oh btw when you do pull the head

leave the intake manifold ON

just unplug everything, unplug all the vacuum lines and wiring and hoses and the throttle cable going to the TB

leave the fuel rail and injectors in there too wrap em up in something to keep em safe....

::::VERY IMPORTANT::::
if the car is going to sit for more than a few days coat the cylinder walls with vaseline to keep them from getting surface rust (a thin layer will do, but make sure NO ait can get to the walls) and also leave a lil puddle of oil on the cylinders to protect them from rust too

the exhaust manifold I'd take off tho if I were you... but leave the intake manifold on and the upper water pipe

if anything else comes to mind I'll mention it... its actually pretty easy yanking the head.. putting it back on is a lil more... interesting

Quote:

leave the fuel rail and injectors in there too wrap em up in something to keep em safe....

I meant in the car... you have to undo them from the head obviously... shoulda read a lil better before i posted don't bother unplugging the fuel lines tho.. thats stupid

Wow that is alot of head work. :O Looks good after everything is said and done. To bad you don't have pictures of the port work done. BTW have any before/after flow numbers????

You are probably right about the mild port job. I was telling him it may not be worth all the trouble since you won't see a big gain from it unless you go nuts like you did. Given even a mild port job and better ratio rocker will give some gain but is it worth the $$/trouble? Debateable.





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its debatable until you punch the go pedal after getting it all back together

all the pain and $$ i went thru was so worth it when I felt the extra power

my car ran .5 faster (from 16.2 to 15.7)in the 1/4 with just the ported head, stock cam and stock rockers and stock throttle body

I do have pics of the port work, but they came out like crap so I didn't bother posting them =\

head work is the REAL weak point for the ohv

a nice extreme port n polish will really wake the thing up... the only draw back is you'll wish you had an extra 500rpm, I crash into my limiter still making some power

throw in an all motor cam from JBP and you're golden or if you're going turbo like me get their forced induction cam

bottom line the head is a very good focal point for power with this engine decide what you want to do (all motor, nitrous or boost) and build the head to spec according to where you're going... you'll thank me later

TheFlyingSquirrel (PJ) wrote:its debatable until you punch the go pedal after getting it all back together

all the pain and $$ i went thru was so worth it when I felt the extra power

my car ran .5 faster (from 16.2 to 15.7)in the 1/4 with just the ported head, stock cam and stock rockers and stock throttle body

a nice extreme port n polish will really wake the thing up... the only draw back is you'll wish you had an extra 500rpm, I crash into my limiter still making some power

throw in an all motor cam from JBP and you're golden or if you're going turbo like me get their forced induction cam

bottom line the head is a very good focal point for power with this engine decide what you want to do (all motor, nitrous or boost) and build the head to spec according to where you're going... you'll thank me later

No no no. You got me backwards. A good working over of the head like you did is very worth it MUCH MORE so if you plan to add a power adder later! .5 seconds is a pretty good gain for a stock cam/intake!

Now doing just a mild P&P, with diffrent rockers (from a diffrent year/model engine) to get some more lift. Is debateable for the $$/trouble.



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ahhhhhh gotcha

its too late I should prolly goto beddddddd

greenfire-if you want to help let me know a weekend yoru available.

Buy a torque wrench too!




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Just FYI...
When porting a 2200 head, the machinest cannot do too much porting on the intake side since the intake ports are almost perfectly matched to the runners on the intake manifold. Take your intake manifold to the machine shop just incase the guy doing the porting can take a little bit out of the intake side.
When I had my 2200 head ported, the machinest barely took off any material from the intake side, but he did polish the intake ports.
Make sure to bring your exhaust manifold gasket so he can gasket match.

While you are at it, go on and order a set of oversized stainless steel valves and have the head machined for valves.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

One more thing. When removing the upper engine mount on a automatic jbody, make sure to support the motor. If not, that @!#$er will fall forward.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

full kitted sunfire,
Hit me up on IM next time you are on. I might have a pretty good offer for you if you have cash.....ported head, stainless steel valves, 2200 turbo kit, bullet proof 5 speed trans, strong ass axles, slicks, etc...




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!