I need some expert advise here, My car runs great with no issues at all, most of the time. But now that the cold weather is back she seems to have some issues. She drops to about 400 rpm when i let off the gas and then regains rpm's to about 900. when i accer;trate it feels like i a pulling a trailer , its trying to go but its woring too hard. if i turn her off and start her again she works like new. i tried resetting the ecu and it worked for about a week and started doing it again. I am thinking i have a computer problem cause it is erratic and mostly in cold weather. has anyone else had this problem.
thanks
Mike
also i have checked the plugs and those seem to be fine, im not ruling out coilpack as well.
thanks
I think that's a fairly common thing among our Ecotecs. My car will do stuff like that for a week, then be fine for a month. I think it started right after I put in my intake. It doesn't seems like anything is really affected, I just watch my tach when I push the clutch in.
Your car is an '04. I thought only the '03's did that.
Yea, its weird. it almost seems like a vacume issue as well.
I've had my car over a year now...through 2 winters...Canadian winters of -20C and lower. I haven't had that prob. My fuel consumption is my only problem.
My car loves the cold air.
If the prob is only intermittent I would take the plugs off my ecu and clean them. They may be corroded or have some moisture in there.
I took the ecu out and made sure all the plugs were clean and there was no moisture there at all. it does not throw any codes either. GM has no idea what the problem is either.
weird
fuel pump????
If it doesn't like cold than maybe its something with the IAT sensor...put a resistor in the plug instead of the sensor. I think a 4.7Kohm = ~0deg C(32F).
Maybe your not getting enough fuel for your engine to burn in colder temps. This little check should tell you if its a prob with your sensor. Just leave it in for a week or so and see if you still have the prob. Since this sensor only works by reading resistance if it were reading the wrong value the ECU wouldn't know that the sensor is screwed. For example it could send the reading for 72F at 32F. This would be considerably less fuel than you should have at the lower temp.
All the ECU sees is the resistance value and sends instructions to have the predetermined a/f ratio for that resistance value. It would only send a CEL when the value is 0 or OL.
In the end there is just way too much it could be if its just intermittent.
I dont know about it acting up during the cold but I would check the air filter. Sound like it could be some kind of filter starting with the air filter. Then try checking the fuel filter because once that gets dirty it's gonna start pulling. But in that case why not just do an all around tune up.
OBJECTS ON MIRROR ARE FORDS AND HONDAS
I have a K&N drop in filter for the moment that i serviced last week. I know the plugs are still good, i just replaced them with new delco's also. I am going to try the IAT sensor trick see if that helps. It is just weird because it only does it when it feels like it,
But thats the least of my worries at the moment, some a$$ vandanlized my car on freaking christmas eve, so i need to worry about replacing the hood, ( at least i am getting insurance to cover all the minor dings and scratches )
Just another minor setback in the turbo build up
Thanks for the advise guys
I will let you all know what the problem is when i figure it out
Mike
Okay here we go again. This is a common problem with (MANUAL) automatics do not have this problem. If you want to search this topic and you will find many posts on it. Here is a quote from a previous post that may help.
Quote:
I've done testing on my own and have come to the conclusion that it has to be the PCM. The IAC works correctly, it is not dirty or clogged in anyway, and there are no electrical issues. I have kept track of when it happens: When it first started (When I was still under warranty) it was completely random. Now however it always happens when I first start the car. The idle will drop to about 500 then slowly increase to about 900 then fluctuate slightly and then settle to a normal level. Then I start to drive, at any point during that initial movement I come out of gear and drift in neutral the rpm will drop to 500 and fluctuate slightly. it will continue until I have come to a complete stop and then it will return to normal. For it to idle normal, I must start, drive, get up to speed, and come to a complete stop for a period of at least 5 to 10 seconds. This process must be completed approx. 2 times for the car to run right. The other idle issue (Extremely high idle) happens after traveling in 5 th gear at approx. 45 mph or more for an extended period of time. When I come out of gear after this the car idles and sometimes fluctuates between 1500 and 3000 rpm. After coming to a complete stop the idle will return to normal. Immediately after this the car idles like it does when it is first started and the process mentioned early has to be repeated in order for a normal idle to be achieved. This leads me to believe that since the only way the PCM knows when the car is at a complete stop is the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) the program used to determine IAC position for idle uses the VSS signal in some way. I do not know the program used so I cannot connect all these things. Like others I have just learned to live with the problem. If anyone does find a solution please share. Also if anyone does decide to visit a dealer and decide to go through the hassle of making them fix it, please let them know that this is not a freak random problem, tell them that many many Eco's have this problem.
The problem is solely in the computers used for the manual tranny eco's so someone with an auto will not have this problem. Now as far as winter is concerned I'm not completely sure. But come to think of it the first time my Eco started to act up was when it got cold. Maybe the programming issue has to do with the computer adjusting to dense, cold air for the first time. I'm not sure but it is a possibility. So once again if anyone has the patients and the money to get the dealer to fix the problem please let us know.
03 Ecotec
How long ago did you get the reflash done Ernesto?
I had heard about this, but was also told that it only worked for a short time before things went back to "normal"
I've been having this problem for the past few months now, I try to ignore it, but the last time it did it it was stalling right out and I'd have to restart my car at ever light. Would be great if this flash actually fixed it though.
By the way, for some added information/question, I've been paying attention more often and my car seems to do it more often when the front and/or rear defrost are on. And thinking about it, the first time it started acting up was when fall was starting and I was on a long drive. It was doing both the dying rpms and the sticking rpms.
Anyone else notice anything like that?
It does like to bog when the a/c is on.
Tampa Cav 04 wrote:It does like to bog when the a/c is on.
Agreed, so does mine quite a bit when it's first started. The lights dim quite substantially, which I realize they'd do at least slightly since the ac is taking a handful of the car's power. But it seems like it's a little much. Now lately when I go to turn the car on after work and give it a minute or so before turning on the defrost it has an odd smell that I'm not sure how to describe. I have no idea what it could be, but if anyone else has any suggestions?
Since it's kind of on topic, there was a post a while ago about the website you can go to and enter your car's VIN and see a list of recalls I believe. Were the ones listed ones that have already been done to the car, or ones that the car can have done? And would they be free?
"Idle Flare or Decel Stall
This condition may affect 2002-04 vehicles with 4 cylinder 2.2L engine
(VIN F - RPO L61) (Chevrolet Malibu, Cavalier, and Classic, Oldsmobile Alero, Pontiac Grand Am and Sunfire).
Some owners may comment about an engine idle flare when the clutch is depressed. Also, some owners may comment about a low speed engine decel stall when coming to a stop.
The flare is caused by the vehicle entering stall-saver mode when the clutch is depressed. The low speed engine decel stall is produced by an interaction between the engine control software and the IAC motor.
Reprogram the PCM with the latest calibration available. The new calibration was released beginning with TIS satellite data update version 6.0 for 2004 available June 2004. As always make sure your Tech 2 is updated with the latest software version."
Hooray
TSB FAQ
Bah, need edit button...
Add [ quote] [/ quote] on there instead of " :p
