hi,
i wrote b4 about this piece of crap!
97 cav 2.2 a/t wont keep running
runs 2-3 secs dies
changed fuel pump, plugs, wires, ign coils and module
changed iac motor, checked for fuel, ok! i think
changed crank sensor and that other sensor down there
tryed the leave the key on for 10 min trick, no luck!
even changed pcm
just starts up and dies!
checked compresion, ok!
can hear fuel pump running smell gas when trying to start!
new fuel filter
someone again told me its the ignition switch
said:"turn to start and keep it that way for a few secs,if it continues u need a new switch".OK! is this theory true?
my other 97 cav parts car is same setup
but... old car has no tilt wheel, it has a plastic bodied switch,
good car has tilt wheel. different setup
has metal switch. dont know how to get it out!
took 2 screws at top out. disconnected all wires etc
how the hell can u get it out?
it just sits there! got lock plate off
can i actually use the non tilt wheel switch? they dont look the same
not as many screws + its not plastic!
im guessing its the factory security or pcm needs programed
can a dealer actually get the program out of old pcm?
ive never heard of this? this is driving me nuts!!!!!
i had mine replaced and apparently there is some special tool you need to get it off
I have a 97 sunfire with a 5 speed. I pulled my ignition out to bypass that annoying little button you have to hit to turn the lock all the way off. Here's how you do it...
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Put in your key and turn to the "run" position.
3. Need a mirror, grab your girlfriend/wife's compact. Look on the side of the lock that faces the dash for a small square metal button. It's at the very end of the lock, closest to the column.
4. You'll need to push this button in to slide out the lock. I bent a coat hanger, but an offset screwdriver should work. The key has to be in "run" position or it won't push in.
5. The lock slides out really easy after doing this.
Putting it back in is just the reverse. Put in the key, turn to "run", squeeze the tab and slide it in until it clicks in place.
I took out that annoying little pin that stops the key from being turned off all the way without hitting a button. Yours is an auto, so you shouldn't have this.
Just a hunch, but it doesn't sound like a key switch problem. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds. It's supposed to turn back on after the engine is running. Whatever senser GM used to determine this isn't working right. Check the manual, I can't say for sure.
Please post here if you get it running right.
John Wilken
2002 Cavalier
2.2 Vin code 4
Auto
Just to add to the advice John has given you
the initial 2-3 sec fuel pump run is usually powered directly from the ECM
then the oil pressure switch should close, as oil pressure is built up
then the fuel pump relay coil should then be powered via the closed oil pressure switch contacts
the fuel pump is then powered from the fuel pump fuse,
through the closed fuel pump relay contacts
If it is a fuel pump circuit problem you have it could be :-
1. The fuel pump fuse (Because the initial 2-3 secs is powered directly from the separate ECM supply)
2.The Fuel Pump relay defective (Not energising or dirty contacts)
3. The oil pressure switch defective-does the oil light go out?
4. Wiring fault in this circuit
Hope this helps
Alont
Ignition switchs cause no starts not the problem you have. Ignition switchs simply close either in the Run, ACC, and for a second in the start position.
If I have cars that come in and they say, runs and dies, or dies while driving, VERY first thing I do is find the fuel pressure gauge and hook it up.
Thats the first thing you need to do, do you have correct fuel pressure.
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
whats probably happening is your theft is coming on.
what you need to do is dig under the dash and inside a big wire loom right where the steering column is, you'll find two thick red wires. cut them completely and it will disable the theft system.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
So is the light ON, Brian--- or have you had it starting?
Bwwhaahaha! Well, somehow I've managed to wear out that lock-out key release button. I no longer give it any consideration an' jus' turn off the engine. If I knew how I did it, I'd share it for sure!
Hi Brian
This is a quote from our FAQ's Passlock relearn procedure
6-99 J-car
1. Attempt to start the vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM light telltale will flash for 10 minutes.
2. When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running, the password is learned.
Have you tried this--- following the procedure exactly?.
I am mostly convinced that the Passlock system is shutting off the injectors as it was designed to do, because the Passlock module is not seeing the correct R code.
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There is a YELLOW wire running from the ignition switch to the Passlock Module
which carries the R (Resistance) code from the ignition switch.
There is an ORANGE/BLACK or BLACK wire which is the return path for this
The YELLOW wire must not change in resistance by more than 100 ohms and the ORANGE/BLACK or BLACK by more than 7(seven) ohms or the system will not allow the car to start(and run).
So if either of theses wires are damaged,corroded or have bad connections the system will not function.
If you do /or have changed the ignition switch the system will have to relearn as in the FAQ's.
Post on here how you are progressing because the more people who see the problem, more minds can work to help.
Good Luck
Alont
