I've did my search'n all night in hopes of finding something. I was one of the victims of the rough idle/stall/bog crap about 2 years ago. Thing is, i replaced things, cleaned things, and nothing helped, then one day it didn't do it anymore. Well that problem hasn't came back, thank God, I think.
I had an earlier post about my alternator issue, my car was idling realy low like arround 600 to 550 at stop lights, to the point i had to put it in neutral to keep the charge going. And that only provoked every punk as$ in every town to rev theirs up think'n it was showtime. So i thought, fix the alternator, end of issue, well put a brand new one in. It seamed to be doing good, turned the system up, and it didnt' cut out at all, and neither was my radio. All is well, but if you know j-bodies, when you get that feeling, you know it's too good to be true. Sure as the sky is blue, back again.
Close loop it runs at 1100 steady. Comes out of closed and runs smoothe at 650 to 700. As soon as the temp meter hits operating temp it drags. Sounds like it's doing everything to stay alive, lights dim as the rpms drop to 550 and the car gives all of it's strength to get back up to 600 to 650, then back down again. Not drastically, but like i said enough where the headlights are really dimming. And this is doing it with the system shut off and no HVAC once so ever, the only thing that is sucking power is the headlights. So now i'm stumped, mad, frustrated, questioning why i didn't just buy another car 5 years ago.
Any ideas, or has anyone ran into this? As it was doing it, i undid the FPR vacum hose to jack up the fuel pressure, and it still didn't bring it back steady. It's not missing or anything, just acting like it's on it's death bed electricly.
Here is my set up.
96 2.4 Z24
New Alternator
Underdrive Pulley (I know, after 3 years w/ no problems i'm putting the stock pulley back on)
5 month old battery
Clean TB
Tomarrow i'm gonna put the stock pulley back on, put some TB cleaner in, and put a new air filter on. I just don't want to rack up the bill agian to not figure out what it is.
Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Does a 96 have a TPS(Throttle Position Sensor)? This problem sound's more sensor related. That's why I'm asking.
Close loop it runs at 1100 steady.
Comes out of closed and runs smooth at 650 to 700.
AS SOON AS THE TEMP METER HITS OPERATING TEMP IT DRAGS
Sounds like it's doing everything to stay alive, lights dim as the rpms drop to 550 and the car gives all of it's strength to get back up to 600 to 650, then back down again.
How about the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the one with Yellow/Black leads that feeds into the ECM
Just an idea that it is sending an incorrect signal to the ECM once the operating temp is reached, or that it has a bad or intermittant connection
Is the Black/White ECM ground wire making a good contact with Ground?
Alont .
This might be a dumb comment, but wouldn't the underdrive pulley make your alternator spin slower at than stock at idle? Maybe that is the problem.
Well today, I am putting on my stock crank pulley, cleaning the TB and Intake Mani, cleaning the IAC, and replacing the cone air filter as well as the IAT sensor.
Is the coolant temp sensor one of those ones where you can't just change it, but have to reprogram the computer to accept it like the crank sensor? If it's not i'll replace that sensor too.
Any idea's about the EGR? Is there a way to check this?
First off the car runs in open loop and goes into closed when the following conditions are met, the car has been on for atleast 60 seconds, the O2s have heated to up 600F.
Secondly adding a biigger pulley or a smaller one will change the rotation that everything else spins at. So if your alternator is spinning to slow it cant keep the batery charged up.
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
alont wrote:Close loop it runs at 1100 steady.
Comes out of closed and runs smooth at 650 to 700.
AS SOON AS THE TEMP METER HITS OPERATING TEMP IT DRAGS
Sounds like it's doing everything to stay alive, lights dim as the rpms drop to 550 and the car gives all of it's strength to get back up to 600 to 650, then back down again.
How about the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the one with Yellow/Black leads that feeds into the ECM
Just an idea that it is sending an incorrect signal to the ECM once the operating temp is reached, or that it has a bad or intermittant connection
Is the Black/White ECM ground wire making a good contact with Ground?
Alont .
I've actually heard off this a lot of times. Also there's a ecu update that i know of, i think it udates the parameters for idle rpm's(or something like that). I think there was like 5 or so for the z24's. Mines had them all done..but while off warranty your going to be charged around $70.00 est.
There was a post awhile back with a link tto find out what updates have been done by vin..if yo usearch you should be able to find it.
As for changing the cts, pretty basic and no configuration is required
So what's the fix? Did anything help?
John Wilken
2002 Cavalier
2.2 Vin code 4
Auto
