Here is a copy of the FAQ I wrote awhile back:
Below is a FAQ for timing chain tensioner replacement. Many 2.2’s have a problem with the tensioner wearing out and causing an embarrassing ticking sound. The cause of this is nylon on the tensioner being worn off by friction from rubbing on the timing chain. Symptoms of this are a ticking noise that changes with the RPM’s and the ticking growing louder as the oil is heated up. The noise should be coming from the timing cover on the passenger side of the car by the wheel.
Other parts you are going to need:
5 quarts of oil
Oil filter
Permatex RTV hi-temp silicone gasket
Timing Cover Gasket Set (contains a front engine seal as well)
Impact wrench
Special tools: *the pullers can be borrowed from Autozone I believe
A 3 armed pulley puller for removing crank sprocket (don’t know specific name off hand)
A bolt style pulley puller for removing crank pulley (don’t know specific name off hand)
A #5 torx socket for removing studs on timing cover (this is a FEMALE socket)
Removal:
Disconnect battery.
Drain oil and engine coolant.
Disconnect lower coolant hose (the one big one by the overflow tank that goes to the thermostat)
Secure front of car on jack stands (both driver and passenger sides)
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the alternator.
Disconnect the power steering pump(leave lines connected though) and position it out of the way.
Remove passenger wheel.
Remove both black wheel well covers.
Place a jack underneath the lower engine mount bracket and remove the two engine mount bolts that connect the upper mount to the engine (not the ones on the mount itself).
Lower the engine down as far as safely possible.
Remove black crank pulley.
Using the bolt style pulley puller, remove the crank pulley mount (the thing behind the black pulley)
Remove the timing cover—use the #5 torx socket to remove the studs that go through the oil pan. You may try to double nut them, but there are very few threads to work with. I’ve heard a 4mm socket may work.
Align the single hole on the cam sprocket with the timing mark on the crank sprocket (they should be facing towards each other).
Place a pin in the tensioner to remove tension.
Remove the tensioner bolts.
Using the impact wrench, remove the cam sprocket (24 mm socket I believe.) The chain and tensioner should come off after this.
Using the three armed pulley puller, remove the crank sprocket.
Remove all the silicone from the oil pan.
Installation:
Oil the shaft that the crank sprocket will slide onto, and install the crank sprocket.
Install the cam sprocket, chain and tensioner at the same time. Be careful not to mess up alignment.
Bolt down the cam sprocket.
Bolt down the tensioner.
Remove the pin in the tensioner.
Remove the old front seal.
Oil up the rubber on the new seal and place into the timing cover.
Insert the new gasket into the timing cover.
Using the silicone, create a good bead around the oil pan where the timing cover will sit.
Insert timing cover.
Insert timing cover bolts (go over them several times, but do not over tighten them)
Install the crank pulley mount and pulley
Install all the accessories you removed and connect the motor back to the motor mount.
Install new oil filter and make sure the oil pan plug is installed.
Fill engine with oil.
Reconnect the battery.
Test it out and awe at the lack of embarrassing engine noises.
I have found that the GM tensioner is longest lasting tensioner available. I would buy that from the dealer and go to your local parts store and buy a timing set (chain and both sprockets). You should definatley replace the sprockets.
Most likely when you pop that cover off, things are not going to look pretty. You may also want to drop the entire oil pan and clear out all the parts laying down there. To my understanding, this is an interference engine.
I would think that a compression test would work fine for testing the valves. Good luck with the project.
