When I start my car, and especially when I start driving, I can here a tick and it sounds pretty fast, as if it is happening everytime one of my cylinder fires. I dont know a lot aobut engines so I dont know where to start.
Once the engine warms up the tick seems to go away.
Sounds like a tick, maybe a real quick hiss.
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser.
According to the Good Book- if it goes away within a minute and a half it's normal and acceptable. You can check if this is it by grounding the secondary ignition circuit of the specific cylinder- it should go away when you do that.
Other possibilities-
incorrect oil viscosity
incorrect oil filter (without anti-drainback feature)
high valve lifter leak down rate
worn crankshaft thrust bearing
damaged or faulty oil filter by-pass valve
The fixes for any of these is simply to inspect the offending part and replace it. So that oughta give you a place to start. Hopefully it's just normal valvetrain noise. Good luck, man.
I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box, but at least I'm a pretty color
or you could do some research and see that its more than likely a bad exhaust gasket. dont start thinking its an internal part until something else signals that too
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Im running 5w30 for oil right now, usually run 0w20 in the winter. Would it be fine to run 0w20 year round or would it be too thin in the hot months?
And the ticking did just start within like the last week... Nothing has been done to my car, and no accidents or anything. Nothing of the sorts, started on its own.
Im gunna have my neighbor (toe truck guy) come over and look at it with me tonight see if we cant figure it out.
Thanks, peace.
You're reading my line-break, you are a loser.
Saw this problem once while perusing the TSB details. I don't know what the limitations are, or who that it applies to (did for me, but my ticking was typical lack of oil pressure at startup). It's the pistons rocking in their bores. Allegedly it does no harm other than anoying the hell out of the driver. If real loud, the customer might have the option of getting the pistons replaced, or something. BIG time investment, but GM does pick up the entire tab -- IF car is still under warranty.
J D wrote:According to the Good Book- if it goes away within a minute and a half it's normal and acceptable. You can check if this is it by grounding the secondary ignition circuit of the specific cylinder- it should go away when you do that.
Other possibilities-
incorrect oil viscosity
incorrect oil filter (without anti-drainback feature)
high valve lifter leak down rate
worn crankshaft thrust bearing
damaged or faulty oil filter by-pass valve
The fixes for any of these is simply to inspect the offending part and replace it. So that oughta give you a place to start. Hopefully it's just normal valvetrain noise. Good luck, man.
I'm new to this site. I've been searching the site for the last couple of hours & this looks (sounds?) like the problem I'm having. The noise doesn't go away in the first couple of minutes, but will go away eventually once its warmed up. I'm running 10W30 synthetic oil. How do I know if the oil filter doesn't have the anti-drainback feature?
I normally use the Purolator PureOne (blue one) oil filters.
If that's not it, anyway to narrow down the problem? I do notice that when the engine load is lightened (like coasting down a hill), I can't hear the noise. Does that indicate the crank thrust bearing more likely than the lifters?
its a lifter or a exhast leak.
i would never run even 5 30 in a car way to thin. lowest ive run has been 10 30
-Borsty
Borsty wrote:its a lifter or a exhast leak.
i would never run even 5 30 in a car way to thin. lowest ive run has been 10 30
.......GM says to use 5w30........... always have, always will.. NO problems.
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
If its a lifter, would using one of those engine flushes before I change the oil help? Or am I just asking for more trouble if I do that?
The weird thing is that it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes I start it up & it runs fine (no ticking noise). I've got about 167K miles on it, so unless it quits running completely, I guess I'll just live with it.
Short Hand wrote:Borsty wrote:its a lifter or a exhast leak.
i would never run even 5 30 in a car way to thin. lowest ive run has been 10 30
.......GM says to use 5w30........... always have, always will.. NO problems.
oh yeah cause they dont want costly repairs
s eyes*
-Borsty
So, what does everybody think about doing the engine flush? Good idea or bad?
Will it unstick my lifter (if that's the problem)?
If it makes the noise more on a cold morning, my guess would be piston slap. GM claims piston slap is harmless, as it goes away after a minute or two. I wouldn't bother with an engine flush unless maintenance has been neglected. Instead, I would use www.autorx.com. if you think there is sludge in the engine.
God bless America.
Oops, wrong link. Try www.bobistheoilguy.com to find out more about autorx.
God bless America.
Borsty wrote:its a lifter or a exhast leak.
i would never run even 5 30 in a car way to thin. lowest ive run has been 10 30
I don't mean to offend you , but do you even understand what the 5w30 and 10w30 mean?
The 5 or 10 represent the viscosity weight of the oil when it's cold .. the W means Winter and the 30 represents the viscosity weight of the oil when at high temperatures
...
So, when the car is warmed up, there is absolutly no difference in viscosity between 5w30 and 10w30.
if you live in the south where temps in the winter rarely get below 40 deg F .. you can actually run SAE 30 and still be ok ..
the 5w30 is not neccessary but it's sort of a "one size fits all" because GM has no clue where the car's home will be and what the climate will be like.
