Well the Z24 is now 5.5 yrs old and has 221,000kms so I need to change the coolant.
What are the steps involved in doing this? Is it as simple as pulling a hose, running water through the system and then adding new coolant?
Thanks
Mike Madill
2000 Z24
Also interested, I have a 2.2 but should be the same.
I would think there'd be a drain plug in the bottom of the rad, let the coolant drain out, then flush it with water (warm/cold?) till it drains cleant.
How much coolant do you add after it's flushed?
buy a kit, splice the tee into the heater core line. Open drain plug, flush a little then start the vehicle(while its flushing) Let it all drain, fill it with antifreeze/water, start it and feel it more. Make SURE you burp it well.
http://www.ohiocichlids.com <<<<If you keep cichlids
I also need to do this but I'm not sure if the process is the same on GM car's using dexcool,as it is with reg. anti-freeze?
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Stock!!!!!
i would not recommend puttin a coolant tee in there.......if the inside of the coolant system has corrosion at any points, flushing it may cause a leak......just remove the lower radiator hose and drain it that way......then add fresh antifreeze and bleed system of air.....run and check fan operation...hope this helps
So my buddy at his shop uses this fancy coolant machine to completely flush my purge/flush my 2.4L motor. Now, once the fan comes on, it won't shut off till I turn the car off? Car is not overheating (according to the temp guage). I am thinking either there is a nasty air pocket in the system or something happened mechanically somewhere during the purge/flush?!
1. How do I clear the system of any air pockets?
2. How do I test if my water pump (replaced 25,000kms ago) or thermostat may be defective?
Thanks!
J
BTW, there is no leaking coolant at all from the system, and I get plenty of heat in the car from the air vents.
Also, I have noticed when doing a search for this issue, that people have mentioned defective rad caps. Now, when I take off my rad cap when the engine has been running for a bit, there is no hiss/release of pressure at all since the coolant flush? Weird I thought. Thus, brings me back to the air pocket issue I may be experiencing currently.
J
let the dealer do it, its like 99$ CDN and it'll be done properly
ZStyling - To clear the air out of the system take the radiator cap (over-flow) off. Then start the car. Let it get up to operating temperature (upper hose gets warm and the cooling fan comes on). Then rev it up to about 2000 RPM. This will move the coolant through the system and work the air out. You will probably loose some coolant into the system so after you have held the RPMs up for a little while you will want to start replacing the coolant. I did this by holding the throttle open so it was above idle and put more coolant in and then quickly put the cap back on. I haven't had a problem (2+ years) with overheating. I'm not sure if there is a bleeder screw or anything on our engines? I'm not sure.
To drain the coolant i opened up the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator. I dont recall which side it is located on though. Be carefull because I have heard stories of people applying too much force and breaking them off.
You would also know more than likely if your H2O pump was bad because they drip coolant out of the weep hole once the seal inside goes bad. You would see the coolant on the ground by the passenger side under the engine.
You could tell if your thermostat was bad if your car never really heats up (thermostat stuck open) or if your car was overheating (thermostat stuck close)
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Well I did run the car with the rad cap off for quite some time but only at idle. So this is the only way to relieve the system of air pockets?
The fan does come on after a couple of minutes but never turns itself off.
We did not drain the coolant out via the drain hole in the rad as my buddy had access to the coolant flush machine at his shop and we just used it. Wonder if I should drain the rad via the drain plug at the bottom and see if the air pocket is elimated that way?
J
Like I was saying, you could increase the revs from an idle to get the water pump flowing faster. I know with most cars, that have the radiator cap located on the radiator, that the coolant level will drop because it is being forced through the system at a greater rate when compared to idle. Then let it idle for a minute and then raise the RPMs, do this for a few minutes. It has worked for me in the past. Maybe someone else can give you some more advice.
I dont think that it would matter if you were to drain the fluid from the radiator now. Air will find its way up and out I believe.
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Well I have tried many times with the high idle to get that air pocket out and still no luck, so I went and had my buddy (again) use the purge/flush machine and we re-did the who flush. Well, NOW the stupid fan doesn't come on at all (unless I turn the AC on) and the car will now overheat and bubble coolant out the reservoir when the cap is off. I talked to GM and they did make mention that the 2.4L was a pain in the butt to rid the system of air pockets. Man, this is not for the DIY person, even with the proper equipment it seems...
J
