The hits just keep on coming. Seems like every day is a new problem with my 2001 2.2.

Still in the middle of the cooling fan / compressor project - driving down the road last night and the headlights start to flicker. Then this morning the blower motor starts behaving erratically. My assumption is that the alternator is starting to die. Right?

Assuming it has to be replaced - I have one big question. Can it be done without messing around with the damn belt tensioner/pulley? Other than that, it looks like an easy job, but when my last S-belt broke, what I thought would be simple - became impossible and I couldn't believe what a pain the butt dealing with trying to get the belt back on - including reaching and turning that tensioner. So I made a mental note at that time that I would study how to change the alternator - but always knew that I didn't want to have to screw around with the belt. I rather just pay someone to do it if there's no choice.

So my question is - when you are swapping the new alternator with the old one, can't you just hold that belt and slide the new alternator in and up behind the belt? Or is there so much pull on that thing, that there's no way you'd be able to do that? In my past attempts, I found out that I couldn't see or reach that thing way down there and also didn't have the tools to do it anyway. So now that it looks like I need an alternator, anyone have relevant advice or experience with what I am talking about?

thanks (2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2 200K)

Ok, so convinced it had to be the alternator - made my way to Autozone and had them test the charging system. The guy said it is the battery. Well I seriously doubt that because it is a top-of-the-line battery less than a year old. He said if it was the alternator I would have the light on my dash. Figured the hell with this and went to Pep Boys for the same test. This guy told me both the battery and alternator were "good" but that the battery only had about a 70% charge. More puzzled than ever, I thought about what in the world else could cause the symptoms I was having - and then remembered that back last May when I got this battery from AAA, the side post threads were stripped inside the battery. Thinking it was my old cable bolts, I bought some new bolts but the problem was the same. The car was running fine and I had already been to this AAA place about 20 times over the past month to figure out the starter/recall/relay nightmare that went through 5 starters so sure didn't want to go back and complain about the threads and ask for a new different battery. So no problems with it until just the last 2 days.

Tonight I just tried to tighten that positive cable, but it sure doesn't grab much before it cuts loose and spins. Could probably just pull it totally off by hand. So now I have even more questions.

1. Could a loose battery cable connection cause the symptoms I described instead of the alternator failing?
2. If so, how would you go about fixing that - some kind of metal soldering or larger bolt size jammed in there?
3. If it turns out that the battery connection isn't the problem - has anyone heard of an alternator dying in the manner I am experiencing with no dimming of lights and no dashboard light?
4. Is this just the very very first sign of the alternator dying and it will just get worse?

and of course - the original question - how to deal with that belt without worrying about it becoming a nightmare when replacing the alternator. On this 2001 2.2 OHC I have, is it just a 15mm wrench that works? I have heard that a serpentine belt tool won't work because there isn't enough room to turn it far enough for the desired result so a wrench works better. True? And if you are using that method, how to you keep the belt from coming loose from everything down below and just loose enough to get that new alternator in place. Do you tighten the best by turning it the opposite direction (counter clockwise, I guess?).

thanks to anyone who take the time to read and answer. I truly appreciate it.

I only skimmed through your post, so sorry if I don't answer everything.
Check connections, positive from alt to battery and starter. By check I mean take off and put back on ensuring they are clean and not corroded. get a new battery lug if the current won't tighten, there should be enough slack in the cables for one replacement without having to change the cables. make sure the sense wire coming off of the alternator is in good shape, I think it is the brown one, goes from alt to the battery positive. check 4 pin alternator connector.

I don't remember exactly how but my father and I swapped the alternator on my 2002 2.2 with a 5 foot bar and didn't adjust the belt It took a while but nothing was damaged and our fingers came out fine. YOLO


My sig- "Doing what needs to be done, although satisfactory, is a far cry from what can be done."

I'd just scrap the battery if the threads are no good. Trying to force a bigger bolt could damage it further or might not be able to get it off if needed. The altenator is fairly simple to replace. On the firewall side of the tensioner ull see like a lip and indentation. Us a pry bar and gently pry upwards to push the pulley down to release the belt. Sounds like ur having a hell of a time with ur car and mechanics.


ReD RaiN

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I could write a novel just on the never-ending starter fiasco of last year alone. I've told people the story and it really is unbelievable.

Anyway, last night I went for a test drive after dark and with the blower motor fan on max inside to test whether tightening that positive cable did anything. No problems - so I thought that was it, although I had no idea how I was going to keep it from repeatedly happening forever with all the speed bumps, potholes, etc..... that might jar it loose again. Got up this morning and problem is back. Headlights practically go out and blower motor almost stops when I climb a particularly steep hill. That is another consistent aspect of this problem. It is worst in low gears, going up hills or when the car is being taxed the most. So I am right back to where I was 24 hours ago.

About the alternator/belt issue: Clearly that video from 1Aauto:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF-FD8-T1Gg

is the best. I guess my question is - if there is a "belt tensioner" that is for this very purpose which sits pretty much just below the power steering right in front of the firewall, but the quicker, easier way is to use the idler pulley right behind the alternator - then which should you use and why?
My main concern is not having the belt drop off every other component when I loosen it for the new alternator.

Thanks again.

One other thing that may have something to do with it. If you saw my other posting about the cooling fan motor.....

this past Saturday AM I crawled under the car and disconnected that motor so I could hook up two test lead wires from the battery before I put in a new one. Well, it was really windy at the time, and the alligator clips touched each other before I could get them clipped on, producing a big spark. I assumed that since the car wasn't running, and that I didn't have any immediate signs of a problem, I didn't fry anything. Not to mention I figured a fuse would blow before any alternator or voltage regulator damage would happen. Am I wrong or could this have been what caused it?

Remember that Billy Idol song, "Dancing with Myself"? I have that in my head as I write this.

Anyhow, since I am spending about 4 hours every day online searching for answers to all this, I figured I'd stop back here and add some more details.

Voltage drop across entire electrical system continues to get worse. What started as flickering headlights, then headlights and blower fan motor, then everything, but only uphill, or in low gear accelerating.......has now become whenever the car is in any gear and moving at all.

Fine sitting in idle. Fine moving in neutral. No battery icon on dash. No starting problem. No belt noise Not affected by bumps, potholes, rough roads, etc....so it doesn't seem like a loose connection.

So is there ANYTHING else besides the alternator before I deal with trying to get that belt off? I tried to see if my 3/8 inch ratchet fit yesterday and it doesn't so I will have to figure out something else on the tensioner to push it down.

I am also assuming it either isn't possible and/or isn't worth the trouble to replace just the voltage regulator within the old alternator.

thx

i know this sounds crazy, but i had starting issues and charging issues when my grounds were dirty. go through, and clean all grounding points between battery and alternator. and if you can, the ones on the block from the starter as well. my 2.4 is a bit easy to do this too, but i had crazy electrical issues with a bad ground. also, your battery terminal stripping out, in the battery, i've had that happen too, not the threads but the terminal itself. i hope you have a warranty on it and if so, take it back to replace it. warranty should cover it. if not id just buy a cheap auto zone battery next time. but between your battery being junk and your grounds are probably dirty at 200k miles. take a dremel tool or a small rotery tool of some sorts with a stainless wire brush at then end and clean the grounds really good individually as to not mix any wires up. for your sake not mine, don't know how experienced you are. grounds are grounds anyways. but i'm thinking this could have a big impact on how its acting.

hope this helps.