Hello all -
New member, not really an ecotec guy. I started a head replacement job on a friends car and of course ran into the unknown. It's a 2004 grand am 2.2. I managed to find an L61 with a working head, although I'm not positive on the year.
Off the bat I see the following differences:
-power steering setup is different. The car has hydraulic PS while the replacement head looks set up for electric PS (has a block off plate on the intake cam) Can I mount the hydraulic stuff on the replacement head? Is it as simple as removing the block off and installing?
- under the PS equipment on the (to-be-replaced) head itself has what looks like some kind of exhaust gas channeling. Its part of the casting, not bolted on. Not sure how else to explain, anyone know what this is / will the lack of this on the replacement head be a problem?
Any other tips/tricks with replacing the head is appreciated. Thanks in advance, guys!
- Attachments
- image.jpg (1837k)
Power steering pump is as easy as removing the block offplate and bolting the pump on instead, it plugs right into the cam.
If the grand am doesn't have egr, which it sounds like it doesn't, it's fine as long as that block off plate is there. Some l61s came with egr cast onto the head while others did not, no big deal as long as it fits in the bay.
"In Oldskool we trust"
That's excellent news. Thanks a lot. The plan for this car is to sell once its running again. I've heard mixed things about reusing the head bolts. Should I bother? I know a new gasket is a must, but I'd rather not drop more money into bolts if I don't have to.
Anything else I should keep my eye out for or attack a specific way on the install? Like I said, I've never played with an ecotec before, and honestly haven't replaced a head before. Pretty much every other repair possible, just haven't had the opportunity to open an engine open before.
Thanks again!
Definitely use new head bolts, they are torque to yield. And you are aware that you need to pull the timing cover correct? Re-timing it isn't fun.
When you bolt the head down, make sure you rotate the bottom end to top dead center on cylinder 1. Since you don't know where the cams are on the head I would then rotate it a little more than tdc so all the pistons are down a little. That will avoid valve to piston contact on install.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Timing cover on the head? Already off. I think in going to enlist the help of a pro for timing and stuff. A six pack goes a long way around here. Noob question: what's torque to yield? Basically one time use once torqued?
Justin Cotton wrote:Timing cover on the head? Already off. I think in going to enlist the help of a pro for timing and stuff. A six pack goes a long way around here. Noob question: what's torque to yield? Basically one time use once torqued?
No timing cover as in entire side of the motor. It's a mess in there if you don't know what you're doing. I'll attach a picture..
Torque to yield means the bolt is torqued down and then turned a certain amount of degrees more. That physically stretches the bolt to add clamping force. Unfortunately that also means you can't use them again.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Gotcha. Timing cover comes off, purpose being able to spin the crank to tdc?
Because you need to line the timing marks up on the chain that go to both cam gears and the crank gear behind the timing cover. Also because you'll need to have that cover off to get the chain routed through the guides properly.
Did you pull the original head yet? One guide has a bolt in the head behind a big plug.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Attached is a picture with the timing set off. You'll see there's 2 chains, one for the water pump and balance shafts, the other for the cams. The black guide on the right is the one with a bolt in the head.
- Attachments
- IMG_146616737618818.jpeg (109k)
"In Oldskool we trust"
That looks impossible with the engine in the car.
Head is still attached, I popped the valve cover thus far and left the timing chain alone. The original problem with the head was what the mechanics told her was a "burnt valve". Idled like crap but once it was revved/driving it was fine. At this point I'm inclined to ask if it'd be easier to repair the valve (dunno which one or how to tell) than replace the whole head?
Y3llowCav where did you get that picture? >:o
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
It's a bitch but I can be done. If you already have the head just replace it. Who knows what's really wrong.
Rob Dotterer wrote:Y3llowCav where did you get that picture? >:o
Some asshole
"In Oldskool we trust"
Yeah you're right. It's all heresay. So what else should be done while I have all this bull@!#$ ripped apart? Water pump easily accessible (well, relatively)? Anything get replaced in the timing department? Might as well sell it with a clean bill of health. The rest of the car is in really good shape.
Guessing it doesn't have a new style timing chain tensioner, that's something I would do. That part number can be found here:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Ecotec-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-12608580-P10722.aspx
If it were my car I'd put in a new timing set but it's not necessary if nothing is broken. Unfortunately, the guides have a tendency to break because that old style tensioner let the chain slap around and break them. Maybe just see what it looks like inside and go from there.
Water Pump is actually set up so it can be replaced without taking the timing set apart, so I say screw it if it wasn't leaking.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Anyone have a DIY guide or write up on the timing set or cover removal job?
