So I hear this rattling, pinging, knocking, at both top and bottom of the motor but on the belt-side. Near the wheel. Sometimes it would shutup at higher RPM and did not follow RPM. I am assuming the tensioner broke apart from reading a few posts here. I was 30 miles from home. I get 3 miles from home and shudder, POP, car just dies. I had this happen in a few cars before, sounds like a timing chain/belt just gave way. And the starting is very hesistant, very slow, but still turns the crank, no fire. Just like it is pumping air into a closed cylinder. Would this be the cause of the slow cranking? I popped the serpetine belt of to rule out power accessories locking up. Still slow.
Just trying to make sure if I should mess with this car or junk it. I have a 4wd blazer for $600 that needs a hub that I can buy.
I read quite a few posts, but one thing wasn't made clear. Besides the fear of random bits being in the bottom of the pan, why am I removing the oil pan?
1999 Cavalier 2200 SFI (base)
This was easy....
Don't have to remove anything from the top of the engine...
1) Lift car.
2) Support engine with cinder block from underneath.
3) Lower car.
4) Undo 2-bolt mount passenger mount. And remove belt.
5) re-lift car.
6) Undo crankshaft bolts. Pulley falls off.
7) Using 3 jaw or bolt puller, remove crank-shaft pulley "hub".
8) 10mm socket and 4mm socket to remove studs on timing chain cover. (KEY to avoiding oil pan non-sense)
Problem is, if it gets too tough, the stud head will strip, because its actually a torx socket. Better off getting it rather then dealing with a whole oil-pan job.
And there is no need to remove the tensioner, alternator, PS pump, from what I saw. I don't know what started that bull@!#$, oh yea, the Haynes manual.
9) Continue with chain job (available online everywhere)
