Ok Well i should be doing it some time next week and what is the best way to start this? i understand you take the plastic shield off on the driver side,pull the crank pully,take off the 10mm bolts off the cover, make sure the cams arrows are pointed to the crank,have the crank at 12", put dial pins in the cam holes so the don't get out of time and then use a screw drive to release the pressure off the the belt, take out the tensioner, then the belt, set the new tensioner bolt it on and then put on the belt and put every thing back on. im also putting on new cam gears, i know i should do the water pump but theres nothing wrong with it.

Do the water pump, you will thank your self later on. Also don't forget to set the tensioner once everything is installed, other wise it won't set on its own.

Why are you replacing the timing chain? They are technically not a wearing item.

First, if that is the LD9 motor, it has a chain, not a belt. Second, there is an 8mm hole on each cam gear that you should stick a 5/16 or 8mm bolt through to keep the cams from rotating once the chain is off. That hole in each gear should line up in the 6 o'clock position in relationship to the cam gear bolt. The crank gear has an index mark on it that should align to a mark on the block. if all of that is perfectly aligned when the tension is applied with all the new stuff installed, then you can take out the bolts and turn the engine over by hand. I would recommend removing the spark plugs to remove any compression and make it easier. If you feel any resistance that you cannot get past with your bare hands and absolutely no tools, then one or more of the gears are mis-aligned. If it spins freely, then you can put the cover back on and put everythin back together.

I would recommend to replace everything in there (cam gears, crank gear, ALL guides, tensioner, and the water pump). Regardless of what someone else says, I have seen these chains gain enough slack between 85k and 100k miles to punch a hole through the chain housing and damage the crank case. To replace everything in there when you do the work is just preventative maintenance and will save you from having to do it again sooner than later.

Also, make sure you follow the installation instructions for the tensioner letter by letter when installing it. I have seen some pretty negligent mistakes made by "professional" technicians where the tensioner wasn't properly intalled and catastrophic damage was done to the entire engine.

Spend a little extra time making sure it is right instead of a lot of time and money later. Good luck.



Some people have brain storms, others light drizzles. And then there are those that have droughts.

zsquee24 wrote:Why are you replacing the timing chain? They are technically not a wearing item.

It's stretched alittle and I grad from rti which I have all tools and a lift to do it. And it was never done at 100k miles

Well I got
Timing set
Water pump with gaskets
Exhaust manifold gasket
Thermostat
Gallon of non 50/50 dex so I can mix it my self
total comes to 304$ I paid 206 with my discount

I have 130k. Never replaced my chain. I have no reason to replace it. Also on orginal water pump.

They do not say replace the chain at 100k.



FU Tuning

I don't think the scheduled maintenance for the car show changing the chain at all.

Ive had the guides wear out and tensioner get lazy. I checked the chain with 185k miles on it to a brand new one and it was the same size, there was no noticeable stretch. Owing the car since it had 50K miles on it, I guarantee it was never changed.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

Well I did all of it drives fine and every thing but when I stop completely the idle goes up and down like 1 or 200 rpms every 3-5 secs, but when I put my ac on the car is fine.

I did unplug the battery over night

Any ideas?

Probably just re-learning everything. Drive it for a couple weeks and see if it still does it.


"In Oldskool we trust"

I did my timing chain and all when I had to replace my water pump on m 01 z24 at 230,000. had a little stretch but while I was there, why not do it right?

I have 246,000 miles on my '99 Z24. Timing chain has never been done. It's starting to knock, so I was wondering how easy is it to do? Any special tools required?


You Must Be Fast, 'Cuz I Was Haulin' Ass When I passed You!!!
1999 Cavalier Z24 w/ Toyota Cavalier tail lights.
1988 Buick LeSabre T-Type
1983 Buick Regal T-Type

i have a 97 z24 2.4l and m timing chain needs replaced its alread slapping around.. my question is how do u even do it without pulling the engine???