I followed all the instructions in the repair guide to remove the intake cam housing cover but the cover still seems to be connected somehow i tried beating the housing cover off and everything and i cant seem to remove it is there something im doing wrong? i removed the power steering pump the fuel rail the intake manifold and all the bolts and connections but that intake cam housing cover just does not seem to want to come the efff off is there a way to remove it? or do i have to remove the whole motor to get it off?

did you take off the timing chain cover and chain and remove the 4 bolts that hold the timing case to the intake cam tower? (behind the cam gear, which also needs to be removed) if so then you just need to pry the cover off. it comes off kinda weird but it will come off.

well i mean the motor is still in the car do i have to yank the whole motor out in order to remove the timing chain cover and take off the timing chain?

nope. motor can stay in. god knows i've done this more times than i'd like to remember..
remove R/F wheel and splash shields, pull off crank pulley. you're probably going to need a pulley puller. get one that screws into the pulley, not the 3 jaw style. support engine with a jack remove upper engine mount and bracket, remove all the little 10mm bolts/nuts on the timing cover and pull the cover off. you can jack the motor up and down a bit to gain access to some if you need. when i get the cover off i usually like to line up the timing mark on the crank with the one on the case and use the IDI cover bolts to lock the cam gears in place against the cam towers, then reset the timing chain tensioner and remove it along with the chain and guides. never a bad idea to replace the timing components while you're in there, but most of the time not necessary. then remove the cam gear and then the 4 10mm bolts holding the tower and cover to the timing case. then if you've got all the other bolts out you can pull off the cam cover.

for re-assembly you HAVE to reset the timing. most likely the cam will have turned a bit when you take the cover off. lineup the dot on the crank gear with the dot on the timing case, lock the cam gears in place against the cam towers using the IDI cover bolts then install the timing chain. keep all of the slack on the water pump gear side of the motor. make sure the chain is taught on the intake side and there is no slack between the cams. install the tensioner and guides and release tension. pull the bolts out of the cam gears and rotate the crank by hand 2 full times. recheck that the mark on the crank and the holes in the cam gears lineup where they are supposed to then you can seal it all back up.

last time i had to crack into the timing case with the motor in the car i had to replace the lower exhast cam tower gasket. got it down to about a 2 hour job, using air tools. it can be a pain in the ass, but its not all that difficult. this motor is idiot proof when it comes to setting the timing. its retarded how simple it is. just read over a service manual (haynes, chilton or GM if you have access) and you'll be fine.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 28, 2011 6:30 PM

I usually use the fuel rail bolts as they are a little shorter than the IDI cover bolts. In my days of dicking with my 02 I had the headgasket replacement down to about 3 hours. This engine is stupid simple to work on.

this motor is dun anyway rod went clean thru the block im jus taking stuff off piece by piece i got a rebuilt bottom end sitting in the garage i also plan on shaving and porting the head any idea how much power gain ill get? also with the secret cam swap du u notice any power gain?

yea the IDI bolts do stick out kinda far. if the motor is shot anyway i'd just pull it out and work on it then. no need to screw around with the tight area there is on the timing side of the engine bay if you can avoid it. just yank it out and rip it apart.