Alright so my car was acting retarded. It would run strong for a week and then out of the blue not start for a day or so. I threw all kinds of parts at it from ignition, passlock, new fuel pump, etc. Still it was happening. I finally figured it out. With the key on I was getting 12 volts to the car side of the fuel pump harness. No running of the pump. Ran 12 volts back to the pump and it ran. So evidently the car side connector is bad. Down side is GM doesn't offer that connector. So I have something to try today to see if it works. I'm just happy I finally figured out the problem. And perhaps it might lead some of you in the right direction if you share the dilemma.
Diagnosis is always the hardest part
Can you explain a little more? This is the connector in the rear of the vehicle? By the gas tank?
Were your injectors firing?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Injectors were firing and everything. Well I tried splicing my own two wire connector in to no avail. 12 volts was present but nothing when you plugged it in. Finally tracked things down to a junction box under the dash near the clutch pedal. I am going to try and post some pics here. My question now is, what is this specifically, can you get just the pigtails, and where does it go? Clearly it doesn't go where it is just floppin around behind the carpet. What was happening was I was inadvertantly pressing on it and it kinkex the gray fuel pump feed wire shorting it out. Any help or ideas is welcome thanks guys.m.flickr.com/photo.gne?id=5615393794&
im sure you could get a newer connector and the wreckers and rewire it all up
Before you go and start replacing the block, I would try a wire to jump across the block and see if that fixes the issue, If so then replace the block and terminals, if not then keep looking. Goodluck.
Well straightening the wires and getting them unstuck from eachother, the car cranks and runs fine. I might just jump across the connector or I might see what style the terminal is and replace just a length of the bad wires. 6 of one half dozen of another I suppose.
Like was said, find the appropriate fuel pump power wire (generally pink with GM) and jump across the block wire to wire bypassing the whole unit. if it runs just fix the appropriate wire termainls (no need to replace the entire connector).
Was one of the parts changed the oil pressure switch?? If not, find it, (sorry dont know off the top of my head generally near the filter block) Disconnect it and jump it, this should turn on the fuel pump. (key on) the switch could be bad or the oil pump is failing. Drop in oil pressure tells the computer something is wrong and kills fuel to save the engine. If the pump runs power wire is fine,
Meter the switch should be an open circuit (if my brain is working right this late), if its good your oil pump is likely intermittantly failing.
This is a prominent issue with Diesel engines as the oil pump directly fires the injectors. essentially hydraulic injectors.
I replaced the oil pressure switch about a month ago because it was leaking. The 12 volt power to the pump is gray on mine. Pink comes off the o/p switch to the tank but that failsafe is working. Yeah I agree. I am only going to fix the damaged wires. I was looking at getting the whole rear half of the harness if the price was right that way I would know everything was fit. Well with one new available at 1400 dollars ill pass. I'm real leery of junkyats electrical parts. Anyways thanks for the input guys. Oh and that connector, anyone know where and how to properly mount that? My thought is zipties but if the correct way is easy I would rather that.
Ok so a little update. The fuel pump was fixed with the above solution. New problem, no power to ICM. I have power to both sides of the fuse just not down behind the motor. I am thinking for a temp fix till i find time to trace the wire, just running a toggle. Ghetto yes but it gets it back on the road. Any cons to this i am missing? I dont want to burst into flames or anything.
