what should i look for when buying a junk yard motor - Maintenance and Repair Forum
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hey guys my 2.2 is knocking so im going to buy a junkyard motor. what should i look for or check to make sure its a good clean engine any help is greatly appreciated. thanks.
i wouldnt buy one.
unless you get some kind of warranty, find something that is running,
or was running when pulled with a warranty.
junkyard motors are in the junkyard for a reason, and they've prob sat for a while w/o being cranked, meaning bad seals etc.
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2001 Chevy Blazer
4.3L 5 speed manual
Alpine deck, Type R 12in. sub.
145k miles
1997 Pontiac Sunfire
2.2L automatic trans
146k miles
well a junk yard motor is my only option its all i can afford. my 2.2 started knocking like crazy out of no where so i have to get another motor. i have gone to the guy who has the motor before for other things. and have a friends who own a shop that do business with him. he wants 350 for the motor and i know he keeps them in a litte shed thing covered up. i know if it is messed up he will take it back as well. i just need to know little things to check for to make sure its good
visable leaks, there's really not much you can do...maybe get a big ratchet and socket and turn the crank with it just to insure it's not locked up
alright well what you guys think about this 350 bucks has 132k on it and just had a timing chain put in and the guy wrecked the car . sound ok to you guys price wise and all
with atleast some sort of warranty maybe... or if it could be heard running??
2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car
yea the guys pretty good on his word. if it was screwed up i know he would make it right. and he even told me he wont sell a motor unless hes heard it run and its good. ive never bought a motor before so im not sure that 350 is a good deal or if i could get one cheaper? what you think?
its pulled i take it? If I went to pick n pull and pulled a motor myself, I think its $2xx but part of that is a core charge, thats for a complete long block w/ acc I think bare long block is like $180
So probably a pretty decent deal if you trust the guy. maybe see if he will drop it down to 300?
2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car
wow our pick n pull is like 260 for a complete motor plus core. yea he wants 350 its 100% complete engine and its already pulled out and has a almost new timing chain in it. has 132k on the motor. so i guess its not bad i only found one other place that had the motor and they wanted 450 and it had 160k on it. i was really hoping my car and original engine would go to 300k but it didnt its at 208k and is knocking it was pretty all of the sudden to no warning.
Ive pulled several motors from the junkyard in unknown condition and never had a problem.
The last motor I pulled was a 97 LD9, odometer read ~75k miles in the car. I put it in my cav and got another 110K from that motor.
Ive gotten a couple 4g63 mitsubishi motors that way too, never an issue.
I always go for a wrecked car though. Chances are if it isnt wrecked, its in there for an engine problem.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
well this car was rolled lol good sign then. im just nervous never had to replace a motor. cant 2.2 usually take a beatn? i get on it once in awhile and push it before i shift on occasion but i didnt think i was that hard on it. and i was going pretty high rpm in 2nd just about ready to shift to 3rd and it hiccuped and started to rattle and knock. didnt think i was that hard on it though. ive been just as hard or harder on other cars. can this motor just not take it?
dakota sutherland wrote:well this car was rolled lol good sign then. im just nervous never had to replace a motor. cant 2.2 usually take a beatn? i get on it once in awhile and push it before i shift on occasion but i didnt think i was that hard on it. and i was going pretty high rpm in 2nd just about ready to shift to 3rd and it hiccuped and started to rattle and knock. didnt think i was that hard on it though. ive been just as hard or harder on other cars. can this motor just not take it?
i beat the fcuk out of my 2.2, just keep your oil full and keep up with regular maintenance....how was your oil when it started knocking?
well just changed it like less tha a 1000 miles ago and its full. i used 10w30 casterol syntec. it has208k but reallt didnt expect it. i didnt use oil or anything seemed very healthy and the bam it happened
dakota sutherland wrote:well just changed it like less tha a 1000 miles ago and its full. i used 10w30 casterol syntec. it has208k but reallt didnt expect it. i didnt use oil or anything seemed very healthy and the bam it happened
mine has less than half that, that's probably why lol mines 102k, maybe 103k havent looking in a while
well i know it had some miles on it but it seemed so healthy didnt use oil didnt rattle or nothing. ive had chevys with 250k on it so was kinda dissapointed. ive never broke a chevy engine until now. does anyone know about these like when they get aot of miles is it common for them to throw rods?
yea honestly 200k miles isnt that much for 2.2s but i guess around then if it goes, cant really say u were surprised
yea i thought it would do alot more honestly. i know i ran it hard sometimes just reving it pretty high before shifting but thats really it. i also ran synthetic the original owner never used anything but conventional oi. could the switch have killed it? i got another motor for 350 bucks with 132k thats the best i could find. hope it lasts awhile.
we scored many engines in yards. i looked for a car that was wrecked cause then chances are that is why the car is there. if the car has no major acccident visible then chances are its cause the motor or trans is done. Around here 2200s are a dime adozen n i bet i can throw a rock and hit a running one lol. So far other then basic maintance we have had good luck with them. So just be observant with your choice.
i thought they would be more common around here than they are. i had to get either a 96 - 97 ive never replaced a motor is there any thing i should automatically replace before i put it in and use it? should i be worried that the engines been sitting?
the normal stuff...plugs, thermostat, etc
new oil. let it run for 10 minutes or so, then drain and look for anything out of the ordinary. flush the coolant system.
get a gauge and check the oil pressure. wouldnt hurt to do a compression test before starting it.
im prob being a little over-cautious, but that's what i'd do.
___________________________________________________________
2001 Chevy Blazer
4.3L 5 speed manual
Alpine deck, Type R 12in. sub.
145k miles
1997 Pontiac Sunfire
2.2L automatic trans
146k miles
id change any belts and tensioners while its accessible. oil, cooolant flush, spark plugs/wires. and give it a good cleaning before you put it in this way youll beable to spot leaks better on a clean motor.
you think it would be ok to use my plugs and wires that are in my motor already they are almost new.
dakota sutherland wrote:you think it would be ok to use my plugs and wires that are in my motor already they are almost new.
just check the gap before u put them in, most likely theyre still good but u might as well since its out lol and yeah do wht bluedriftcavvy said, clean the engine before u drop it in....with mine i just coverd the plugs and holes with little bags and rubber bands and hosed it down with a pressure washer, i dont really care what my engine looked like as long as it was running, but it is nice to not see gunk and dust everywhere....also a little bit of spray paint goes a long way haha i sprayed my whole transmission silver, not the prettiest paint but when its in, it looks brand new
yea when the motor started knocking i checked the plugs just to see if there was any oil on them they still look like new. im kinda worried and kinda excited . worried because i dont know how the motor was treated and all that. excited because if it all works out i get to keep my cavalier alot longer. i really like my car so im happy about that. should i replace my clutch? it works fine but does have 207k miles on it. or should i just replace it when it is needed?
replace the clutch, flywheel, belt, tensioner, hoses, thermostat, front and rear main seals, transmission input shaft seal, oil pan and valve cover gaskets.
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