Just joined the site. I have an 05 cavalier, 2.2 eco, 2 door, 5 speed with 70K miles. Had issues with the temp gauge. It would sometimes read too hot(which was annoying to say the least) and sometimes wouldn't zero out when the key was turned off. After much research, I found that GM used faulty stepper motors in the clusters. So ordered 2 new updated stepper motors off ebay and just replaced the temp gauge motor myself. Now it seems to be working properly again. Now, my only concern is that the fans don't kick on to over 220*F and the thermostat opens at 195*F. That's too hot for my liking. 220 is well over boiling and that's the temp at the sensor, the actual internal engine temp is probably even greater!
So I plan on installing a 180* thermostat first. . Then after that, I found adjustable fan temp controllers on ebay. It would be cool(no pun intended!) if I could have the fans kick on at around 200*F. I wanted to simply change the fan control switch, but The thing is that the fan is controlled by the ECU and not by a actual switch. So if I can install the adjustable fan control, it should work perfectly. I will let you guys know how it goes. I plan on leaving the ECU connected to the fan relay and tap in my fan controller.
Just wanted to share in case somebody is running into this too.
I don't know if you use it, but HPTuners can change what temp your fan comes on, and also how long after the key is out of the ignition the fan remains on. Just an idea if you have access to the program. Also look into a better fan that draws a higher cfm, ours suck. Check the Phoenix Craigslist under "slim fan", a guy is selling two-speed fans made for performance apps like drag cars, rock crawlers, sandsails, etc that have fan shrouds and draw 4500cfm! And maybe a bottle or two of Water Wetter added into your coolant.
"Vroom."
"Yo I wouldn't race him, there's not even an interior in his car man."
"Vrooooooom PSSSSHHH!"
"Oh sh*t. F*ck that, dude..."
Justin Paul wrote: Now, my only concern is that the fans don't kick on to over 220*F and the thermostat opens at 195*F.
completely normal, EVERY THIRD GEN J BODY DOES THIS.
Quote:
That's too hot for my liking. 220 is well over boiling
of water at sea level. but what you have is a antifreeze/water mix, under pressure. boiling point is now roughly 260* at sea level, and goes down with elevation, but only slightly.
Quote:
and that's the temp at the sensor, the actual internal engine temp is probably even greater!
ehhhhh, notsomuch. your engine is all aluminum, and is constantly being cooled as the water pump does it's job, and don't forget, engine oil also acts like a heat sink.
Quote:
So I plan on installing a 180* thermostat first. . Then after that, I found adjustable fan temp controllers on ebay. It would be cool(no pun intended!) if I could have the fans kick on at around 200*F. I wanted to simply change the fan control switch, but The thing is that the fan is controlled by the ECU and not by a actual switch. So if I can install the adjustable fan control, it should work perfectly. I will let you guys know how it goes. I plan on leaving the ECU connected to the fan relay and tap in my fan controller.
i wouldn't bother. honestly, you'd be wasting money on a situation that is functioning normally.
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Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Justin Paul wrote: Now, my only concern is that the fans don't kick on to over 220*F and the thermostat opens at 195*F.
completely normal, EVERY THIRD GEN J BODY DOES THIS. Quote:
That's too hot for my liking. 220 is well over boiling
of water at sea level. but what you have is a antifreeze/water mix, under pressure. boiling point is now roughly 260* at sea level, and goes down with elevation, but only slightly. Quote:
and that's the temp at the sensor, the actual internal engine temp is probably even greater!
ehhhhh, notsomuch. your engine is all aluminum, and is constantly being cooled as the water pump does it's job, and don't forget, engine oil also acts like a heat sink.
Quote:
So I plan on installing a 180* thermostat first. . Then after that, I found adjustable fan temp controllers on ebay. It would be cool(no pun intended!) if I could have the fans kick on at around 200*F. I wanted to simply change the fan control switch, but The thing is that the fan is controlled by the ECU and not by a actual switch. So if I can install the adjustable fan control, it should work perfectly. I will let you guys know how it goes. I plan on leaving the ECU connected to the fan relay and tap in my fan controller.
i wouldn't bother. honestly, you'd be wasting money on a situation that is functioning normally.
So maybe I should just leave it alone then? I just don't want the engine to blow a head gasket or somthing else running that hot.
It seems to be holding a constant temp a LOT better now since I changed the stepper motor in the gauge cluster.
Though my vehicle is not an Ecoteh, from my experience I had a 93 Vortex CPI s10 Blazer with a HyperTech 160 thermostat, and when I bought the SUV I had 111k, by the time I was ready for a new vehicle the truck had 250k, and the only thing that ever went bad was a blown intake gasket and that was easy to fix. The motor was still strong like the day I bought it, but the freeze plugs were about to go, and the fuel pump stopped working on me while I was on i-70 heading toward vegas, I gave it to a guy that offered to drive me to vegas and that was the only reason I gave it up.
5 months ago I bought my 02 cavalier 2200, the one problem I had with it from the start was the rad fan only turned on when the AC was turned on. I installed an after market fan and a 160 failsafe thermostat.
Aluminum cools down faster and its lighter however heat will warp a aluminum head within just 2 years at 220F. 220F is to hot to my liking and im not willing to chance a warped head with seed cracks between the valves it is "unrepairable" damage to the cyl head.
Just my 2 cents
Proud owner: 2002 Cavalier Sedan 2200SFI LN2 4-speed auto.Slowest compact car, only designed for school and groceries.
