So after a few weeks of working on this off and on, I finally got the water pump and the entire timing set replaced on my Sunfire. Put it all back together and cranked it over.
It won't start.
When I replaced the timing set, the marks on the crank were lined up the entire time and i'm 99% sure the cams are timed right. I never rotated them and the alignment pins slid right in. The only thing I turned was the intake sprocket counterclockwise just a hair to set the timing chain. Haynes manual suggested I do that. After the chain went on, I turned it back clockwise, the slack came out of the chain and I put in the alignment pin.
The only slack was between the water pump and the crank sprocket like it should have been and the tensioner took it up once I released it.
Before I go tearing this thing all apart again, is there anything that I should check? The car turns over just fine, No weird noises or anything like that.
did you unplug the IDI cover at all? i know you don't need to for timing chain work but i've done it before, and forgot to plug it back in. i would just double check all your connectors before you go tearing into it again.
if the cam timing was off a tooth it would still run, just very poorly. i've even had it run 2 teeth off. 3 teeth off and you're smashing valves, when you crank it there would be no resistance and it wont start. it doesn't sound like that would be your issue though.
Yeah that's what's weird. It turns over just fine. I didn't unplug the IDI cover but I'll check that. I replaced the o2 sensor also so I was screwing with the wires over on that side but I have no idea if I plugged something in wrong or if I screwed something up taking the exhaust manifold in and out. I haven't messed with for the past few hours. Had to walk away from it before I put my foot through the windshield.
Here's a quick vid of what it sounds like.
Vid
Sounds ok to me. I double checked all those connectors on the passenger side and they seem fine. 2 of them go to the o2 sensors so they wouldn't cause a no start anyway. There is one sensor that that has a red and white wire coming into it and has a orange locking clip with it. I think I unplugged that one by mistake but it's connected now and none of the wires seem messed up.
I beat anything your timing is one tooth off...
Ask David....whitecavy about his timing problems.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
hey, minitransam, i'm right in the middle of doing the exact same procedure, but i ran into an issue with the motor mount bracket bolts. They ram into the side of the frame when i try to unscrew them, Did u have to raise or lower ur motor at all?
Yeah you need to jack the motor up to get the top 2 bolts out. The bottom one you won't be able to remove but you can loosen it enough to pull the bracket and bolt out together. When you go to put the bracket back on, put the bottom bolt through the bracket first and then lower it into position.
To update.....
MiniTransAm/02WS6TA wrote:
Turns out somehow when I changed the filter, I must have pulled on one of the wires coming off of the crank position sensor. So the PCM wasn't getting any info from that sensor and in turn was sending no spark. $50 connector later and the damn thing fired right up. Runs great too. I noticed a difference in how fast it starts and a little more butt dyno power with the pulleys. Too bad I screwed up the timing cover because it's leaking just as bad as before.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
