Ok, well, when driving this morning, I noticed the low coolant light was on... I drove it to work and it was at roughly 240 degrees( the 3/4 line on the temp guage). I baby'd it all the way there. Well, after checking the the coolant in the over flow tank, it was dry... Before I got off work, I added water to the over flow tank (almost a whole gallon in total). My buddy checked for air in the lines and couldnt find anything. We let it run and you could see the air bubbles coming out. I drove home and decided to get on it before I was almost home, and temp guage went down... This whole time, the coolant light hasnt went off. I look at the over flow tank, and when I give it gas, you can see the coolant go through the system. but when at idle, it is trying to push the water out... I dont know if it is my water pump, or my thermostat. I do know there arent any aparent leaks... But what are your opinions? And is there a scan to see what is going on? I do know I cleaned my engine bay, and I saw a sensor on the side of the pump and I think I may have gotten some water in there, but that was 2 days ago, I figured it qould have already messed up by now. I know where everything is located to change it when the time comes, but I am worried. The accessory belt is turning the water pump, but I dont know if there is more to it than that to check for a bad water pump. I have a 2.4 twin cam engine in a 98 cavalier with a 5 speed. THANK YOU for any help. I hope I get this figured out this evening due to our tropical storm is approaching in on us quick.


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

geeze you have all kinds of issues don't you... There is nothing wrong with it that i can tell you. Becuase first off the reason at idle it boils out is because the thermostat is opening and the water and antifreeze is expanding. If you give it a lil gas though it should kind of drop down beause the water pump is sucking it throguh faster. As for the light still being on it is because the sensor is tempermental. I did my motor swap to a 2.4 last week and my low coolant light just finally went off.

Just make sure ther overflow is full every couple of days and give it time to go offf. Also the belt doesn't turn the 2.4 pump it is ran of the cam or timing set(can't rember for sure at the moment) but i do know to change it you have to take off the timing cover and all that just to change the pump.

O and watch for leaks but by the sound of it you don't have any and it has been a while since the coolant was topped off so you should be fine but watch the water pump to be sure it isn't it for a couple of days by looking on the ground and checking to make sure it isn't low.

thanks for the info. I went to auto zone to get a thermostat, and I never once over heated (just a hair over the middle 195 degrees line). The light is still on, and I am thinking that it may be due to me washing under the hood... I sprayed some wd-40 on the sensor that hooks up to the outlet housing (the part you take off to get to the thermostat). I couldnt get it back on because it is dark, raining, and I burnt myself several times! Haha! I did notice when I unhooked the sensor that the temp guage stopped working, so that is definitely the temp guage sensor. What I want to know, is where is the sesnor for the coolant light? Maybe I can spray some wd-40 in there and see if that helps... And yes, I am having a lot of problems with this DARN CAR!!!!!!! I just had my rad. weeks ago. If it keeps it up, I will take it back to the shop. Funny thing is, I checked the coolant like 3 days ago, and now I am bone dry with no leaks.. Puzzles me.???


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

I got it!!!!!!!!!! After replacing my thermostat, I noticed I was still using coolant, and upon further inspection, I noticed my water pump water leaking. So, what in all is required to replace my pump? I mean, it still works, and I dont know if I can just buy a gasket for it or what, but I am going to go ahead and by a whole new pump. I read above that I have to mess with my timing chain, would you think I would have to re-adjust my timing afer replacing the pump, or would I be ok as long as I dont move the timing chain out of place? THANKS SO MUCH! Please help.....


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

well, i changed my gaskets on the water pump, and the ble yet again! I was only using water as coolant, dont know if that was the problem or not... But I am going to go ahead and change the whole darn water pump, new thermostat and new gaskets... My ? is, will I have to re-adjust my timing if I change the whole water pump? PLEASE HELP! I have to go to work tomorrow and I need this info to be able to start working on this darn thing!


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

well, after all my troubles over the weekend, I ended up having a small hole on the underside of my water pump... Looks as if there is supposed to be a screw or something there and it possibly feel out. It doesnt look as if it was a malfunction with the pump, or a crack in it or anything, but I blue glued her right on up, and all is well, for now atleast, I still have to bleed the system good though. i still cant get my darn coolant light to go off though, where is the sensor located so I can check it out and make sure it is ok? Or is there a way to erase the "code" to get it off? I have unhooked the battery, but it still remains on...


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

the hole in the water pump is the weep hole, its a warning sign that your water pump is going if its leaking from there. i think the sensor is in the bottom of the overflow tank cant remember exactly. a 10mm bolt holds the overflow tank in its spot.

to replace the water pump the timing chain has to come off..so yes you need to know how to time the engine correctly. even if you lock the cam gears in place you can still be off a tooth.

14.82 @ 97 mph

GREAT info! I just hope the darn water pump will hold me over till next payday... It seemed as if the weep hole started POURING water out all of a sudden, not a lil bit at a time either... And it happened all in one day, do you think I will cause any further damage by sealing up the weep hole? I hope I dont, my car still has another 1000 miles ahead of it b4 I can get it to a shop to change the whole pump. I would do it my self, but I dont know squat about timing or even how to adjust it on our cars... I will do some searching. And I am going to give the sensor a look. Thank you so much man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

Sorry been busy. First off don't close that hole or atleast i wouldn't do it. It is the weep hole for when the bearings or seals are coming out. The low coolant sensor is in the bottom of the the overflow tank. If you look you can see the wire plugging into it.

Running straight water will eat the bearings out of the pump also and rust god only knows up real quick. If you've ever spilt dexcool on your hand you can tell its real slippery for the purpose of the pump. As for timing and all that i have no clue i haven't did it yet but i can look in my repair manual and get back yo on that. The light will go off. But if your running straight water it will take awhile or not go off for somereason.

Mine wouldn't tell i put antifreeze in it after doing my swap. Don't worry about it till you swap you pump though. when you do spay out the the over flow with water real good. And feel it up with antifreeze and water. Give it two or 3 days and see if it goes off. If not pull the sensor out and clean it off or buy a new one. But like i said mine ussually take on my 99 or 2000 sunfire between 3 to 7 days to go off for some unknown reason.

well, I am going to try to put some dexcool in there in the near future to the tune of 50/50... But I did close up my weeep hole. And I am going to keep it that way until I get the chance to take it to a shop and have them change it. After I got to thinking about it, I think my water pump may have a lot to do with my sputtering problems since I now know it screws with my timing. But I will keep yall posted on how the car is doing, I noticed I did use a bit of coolant over the past 2 days, nothing significant, but I did have to put about 8 oz of coolant in the overflow tank. Thanks for all the help guys!


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

The sensor is in the reservoir. If the coolant isn't up to the line, it tells you its low. As said above,I wouldn't worry about it unless it still does it after the pump is replaced and the system is refilled. Mine didn't tell me coolant was low after the pump was changed, but I've never put straight water in mine. Maybe the sensor doesn't pick up because the water is thinner and takes a couple days to get right again.

the 98 2200 I bought about a month ago I cant find the coolant level sensor for the resevoir, idk wth the redneck who had it before me did with it when they put the new motor in? lol oh well, doesnt throw and codes or anything, just odd that I cant find it? looked everywhere in the harness.

well, I took a trip this weekend, and 1500 miles later, she is stil running good, but I am parking it until I get it to the shop next week. I will tell yall if it cures the common 2.4 sputtering, hesitation problem as well... By the way, is it possible for me to change the water pump, and not mess with the timing? I mean like, if the chain stays in place, will my timing be ok, and is it even possible to change the pump without the timing chain moving due to the tensioner? Has anyone done this before? Could someone give me a "mini" tutorial of how to do it? Besides take the old pump off and put the new one on?


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

chain has to come off to do the water pump.

the water pump bolts are 13mm and 10mm i believe .. there are some that hold it to the block as well as the bolts that hold it to the timing cover

you need to remove the motor mounts (upper and lower) the upper is 18mm and you'll need to move the engine around to remove the 3 bolts that hold it in place
the most important part is timing the engine correctly when you put it back together.. thats a subject on its own.
depending on how long its been you may want to replace other parts ... the thermostat, tensioner, chain, shoe (removing the shoe without breaking the tab that locks it in place requires patience), as well as any of the gaskets that are exposed.

14.82 @ 97 mph

No you can change the water pump f you remove the exhaust mani. then youll be able to get right to it. you dont have to mess with any timing components. Once you remove the exhaust mani you will see it pretty self explanitory. The sensor , once you have the resevoir full unplug it then lightly tap it with a screwdriver then plug it back in turn key on see if its out. If not out then with key on and sensor plugged in tap it lightly with a screwdriver and check to see if light goes off again. When i change my antifreeze every year my light tends to stay on so i just tap it with a screwdrver while the key is on and it goes off every time.

matthew christian wrote:. I have a 2.4 twin cam engine in a 98 cavalier with a 5 speed.

14.82 @ 97 mph

hey guys, sorry i havent been on, so, what is the verditct? I am hearing I dont have to mess with the timing, and I am hearing that I do... I know I will have to take off the timing cover, and remove the motor mount as well. But, If I just try to slide the pump out, will the tensioner move my chain and I will have to time it properly? I dont know? Maybe i will google it, or even take it to a shop if no one answers by the end of the week...


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

Oh, I also forgot to mention, what can I do to keep the cam gears in place? I know I can put a bolt or something in there, but what size bolt, and does it screw in somewhere or kinda wedge itself in there so nothing moves? I am completely lost... I have searched on here, as well as googled this topic too.............


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

Matthew,
The sensor in the bottom of the reservoir is for fluid level. The temperature sensor is on the driver's side of the vehicle below where the wires plug into the coil pack. I should know since I just had that bad boy replaced several months ago. You'll see where it is by the wires going to a housing and heater hoses going to the same place.


98 Z24

RIP Specks

yeah, I realized that when I unpluged the temp sensor and my guages went crazy, and I also know where the fluid level sensor is now as well.. But thanks for the info... So, what is the deal on this timing issue?


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

an M8 bolt fits in the cam gears snugly. you will need to use two 15mm wrenches to move the gears in order to put the chain slack in the right place...getting it right is tricky

when you take off the timing cover it will be obvious - the chain has to come off to get the pump out..which means the tensioner and shoe also need to come out. on the 2.2 you dont need to mess with the timing but on the 2.4 the water pump is chain driven.

14.82 @ 97 mph

ok, thanks for the info... It seems as if trying to change this myself is going to be too tricky, so I will probably take it to the shop.... Thanks for the info tho! I will call tomorrow and see how much they are going to charge me for the swap...


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.

wow! 350 bucks... Maybe I will take a look and see what I am getting myself into.


98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.