I don't want to hear the facts, because I've heard it, read it, and talked to a seller already.
I just want to hear from the people that have actually tried this. I simple yes or no and if you still drive the car how it runs will do just fine. I'm not trying to promote a certain product, I would just like to find better stuff than what i used on my last engine. I love my car and want to continue to learn about all the things that make it tick.
So my question before I bore you all to death is: Does Amsoil work the way they claim it does?
Again I apologize if the question is bold
Honestly I know that nothing can stop my engine from wearing over time. Its just when I drained my oil around 2800 miles and it was still on the black side I felt like I could be doing myself a favor.
I like this site a lot and know the majority of you are way to cool to argue over this stuff which is why I even bothered to ask such a question.
Thanks again all
Ive used Amsoil once didnt really see the big hype about it, I did notice performance was little more peppy, The oil wasnt much cleaner, I would just try and see if you get a different oil filter that collects more particles, example: K&N / B&M Double filters, See if that corrects youre oil condition, Or an oil treatment STP additive also work pretty good too, Also Sea foam has the best results.
Good Luck.
just use Lucas and call it a day
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen
I used Amsoil for several oil changes when my car was a bit younger. I never bothered to pay having a used oil analysis done, so I can't really claim just how "good" it was. As for "feel" - it
may have been slightly quieter, but for startup noise, I've found more of a difference between oil filters on my 2200. Some seem to let the oil drain out more when the engine is off - creating more noise when started until the oil is fully circulating.
I can say though - that even after an extended drain interval (with Amsoil my intervals ranged from about 17,000 to 23,000km with filter changes around 12,000), the magnet on the drain plug still had nothing but the slightest thin black film on it. Of course the oil was starting to darken-up a bit by that point, but nothing awful. My friend went about 10,000km on his 2200 with regular oil, and it looked like nasty sludge - the Amsoil was still clear, and felt very slippery between the fingers (although I don't think that's a very scientific test).
Since the car's getting higher in mileage now, I find I like to get underneath a little more often to keep an eye on things, so I've gone back to conventional oils throughout most of the year, and just use whatever synthetic I find on sale during the winter for better low temperature performance. The extended intervals were nice in the colder months so that I could be "lazier" when that crappy white stuff was on the ground - but I still feel better changing it out more often now.
Although I'm sure that synthetic oils still have an advantage in many ways, I think that as technology has improved our "conventional" oils, the margin of difference has shrank compared to what it used to be. Using the more expensive oil certainly won't hurt the car at all, but don't expect it to suddenly perform like new again. Your wallet is likely to feel the most effect.
Personally I'm not a fan of any additives - unless you've got a real problem you're trying to cover up (like oil consumption).
Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com if you want to read for days on end about this kind of stuff. Like many of these things though - if you ask 100 different people, you'll probably get 100 different answers. Just use whatever you feel comfortable with and stick to it. As long as you use products from name-brand manufacturers, you probably can't go too far wrong these days. Just stick to the recommended grades.
Just my 2 cents worth - which will be nothing if they get rid of the penny!
John
There are different grades of amsoil. The best is a 25,000 mile oil, and ester based.
I've used amsoil for at least 25 years, and I've never had a gasket or oil seal fail.
The ester is known for keeping seals and gaskets from shrinking and hardening.
The only oil i've ever used that was immediately noticeable has been Eneos. The stuff is freakin' killer. Very noticeable reduction in engine noises. Once you get to 5/40 and up it's the only oil available that is 100% synthetic created in a lab. All other synthetics start out as regular oil.
Well I will keep it short.On my 21 yr old mazda trk (bought new) always ran valvoline 10/30 or 40 and just a simple fram filter.Trk ran fine no problems and tried the high mileage oil no change,used lucas no change or benefit.I stay away from additives unless u have a bad leak,ring issues etc.Now my 23 yr cav just poured some royal purple into it, after doing a eng resto job paint new valve cover and oil pan gaskets and yeah norm fram filter.I always use valvoline5/30 norm have not started the cav yet ,due to starter issues.So I do not know how royal will be but,it is a great product! I use it in my differential on my truck and omg it is the BEST over any thing I ever used in my trans (manual) on the trk and rear end.Bottom line stick with norm oil any brand u prefer and recom weight.Filters vary but,fram has never been a problem here on any veh in my garage and it boils down to choice and what ur car seems to do better with overall,like leaks,oil burn,etc.I sometimes use seafoam in the crankcase to clean things b4 I do a oil change to clean things up(good).That's my take.
The best thing you could do is get a Used Oil Analysis. It will tell you what's in the oil, and how much life it has left in it. That way you can extend the drain intervals longer if you want. As mentioned before, Bob Is the Oil Guy is an awesome website. I've switch my Sunfire over to Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 based on that UOA's I found on the product and what other people recommend. The conclusion I came to is this. Any oil will do if you have a daily driver. Just make sure you change it before the additives wear out. Synthetics are good for people that want extended drain intervals and who do more than just daily drive a car.
I had the same question as you but also had trouble finding any 3rd party info as to how good Amsoil is. It kind of sounds like the Avon of motor oils to me.
i switched from mobil1 fully synthetic to royal purple and will never look back again.
I am switching from castrol 5w 30 to Mobil 1 new 0w30 synthetic about an hour from now.
2004 Cavalier. Razzi. (Sold)
1998 Corvette. Some mods.
1992 Typhoon. Lots of mods.
1994 Civic VX 44MPG
I used to use Mobil 1 full synthetic 0-30 (for my Rodeo) and have since switched to Shell Rottel 0-30 which is common amung desiel engines, but works well in cars and trucks too.
I also switched from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple - that sh*t is awesome!
AMS Oil does make a difference in cold/warm starts, which is the time when much engine wear occurs.
Mobil 1 in both cars.
5w-30 for the wifes daily driver
15w-40 for the sunfire I've put too much money into.
-Chris
Synthetic of any kind is better PERIOD. There are all sorts of facts and myths about each brand out there.
There are at least 2 people IN THIS POST ALONE that went from M1 to RP and won't go back. I went to RP from M1 and lost a turbo to coking because RP street oils break down badly under high heat like a turbo application. I went back to M1 and haven't had another issue.
The only other type I'd ever think about using is a straight racing oil that I won't mention because people will say I'm stupid once they read of it's equivalent viscosity ratings
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
I heard oil never breaks down, it just gets dirty. And the "dirt" is what is harmful to your engine. Is I use what ever is on hand in my garage, I never use synthetic and regular oil together, but in my honest opinion oil is just that...oil. change the sheit when it gets dirty or every 3k miles.
I believe dyno oil chunks up and becomes useless around 300 degrees and never returns to it's lubricating state.
MiniTransAm/02WS6TA wrote:I religiously used mobil one until my last oil change. All of the cars that I had it in, suddenly started using oil. After further research I found that mobil one 5w30 has been "thinned out" according to some people. They also have the UOA to back it up. Many of them came back saying that the oil had actually sheered down to a 20W oil. If you want to use Mobil 1 go for it but if your looking for a 30w oil get something like 5w40 or 10w40. Or do what I did and switch to valvoline 
When did you notice you started burning the "thin" mobil 1? I have also noticed mine is now randomly burning oil.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I have been using Royal Purple 5W-30 on my 1998 2.2L Sunfire for about 5 years and leave it in for about 10K miles. The oil is dark by then, but it is still viscous. I do change AC Delco oil filters every 3K miles, though. My engine has over 244,000 miles. Only rebuilt head once (worn valve seals) and timing chain 3 times. I probably started using RP when car had 112,000 miles. I will be using Amsoil on next oil change to see if it cuts the mustard. I will update post then.
Wife's Cav has been running Mobil 1 for over 40k now. I think around 70ishK I'll switch over to the Mobil 1 HM oil......Car still runs great.
I'm running Napa syn 5w30 in the 04, until the stash I have now runs out. Since the car does not drive as much (maybe 7k a year, tops), changing to Amsoil for a once a year oil change should work out well.....
Amsoil is good stuff, but the question would be are you willing to shell out the money?
Amsoil was called the "amway" of oil companies a few years ago.. did you know they make a bunch of other stuff, aside from motor oil? I wouldn't bother paying for it... it's not like most of us here are running seriously modified cars that need anything more than basic oiling. Keeping it filled up is better than most people here can manage.
I use walmart brand synthetic in the L67-powered 'vert... only because it's cheap and I like to drive it hard. I used to use Mobil 1, but there's not really a point in my mind as long as it's changed on a regular basis, with the filter. And I use whatever's on sale, conventional dino oil, in the DD. No point in spending money on it... it's a piece.. it hardly ever sees over 3k rpms.
I won't touch Royal Purple after it turned a friend's oil pan permanently purple. No f'n way!
MY 85 Honda Civic,Running Mobil1 Never had anthing touched in the motor,was still going at 410 Thousand KM.
My 91 3.1 Z24,Running Mobil1 Never had a thing touched in the motor went till 390 Thousand KM,Till a cracked head packed in the motor,Had to install a new oil pan at 240 thousand KM,Draind the oil and the inside bottom of the pan was spotless..
My 2004 Sunfire 2.2 eco,Running Royal Purple,Motor ended up having somthing go wrong,I think it was a timming chain guide,motor filled full of shaving so new motor had to be installed,at 170 thosand KM..I am not pointing the Finger at RP..
I pulled the oil pan to reinstall on my new motor,And was shocked to find a thick layer of sluge in a purple color on the bottom of the oil pan...When the motor was draind of oil it was done hot so all of this should not be in there,You should note Royal Purple adds a Dye to the oil,Well I now found out where it all goes to and why they may claim to run the motor cooler it is due to the free sluge deposit the give you with there oil..
New 2.2 Is back on Mobil1 5/30,And so far all is well with it,And I will stay with Mobil1 product..Just my 2 Cents.
