Never changed my front rotors or pads before and would like to attempt this on my own. I will have to purchase the necessary tools as well. I was told a hex and C-clamp tool?
Any guides would be very beneficial. I'm a visual learner!
Thanks
Your tools are correct. Sorry, I cant remeber what size hex it is, and as far as the c-clamp goes, I have bent many tightening bars on them trying to change brakes, I use a big set of vice grips now. It is probably best if you are a visual learner to try to google this subject or pay someone a 6 pack and help them change them that way you can know how to do it from that point on.
98z24, lowered 2", aem intake, cat-back striaght pipes!, cop ligths in the front and rear, 18" liquid metal's, primer black, tint, full audio and video.
you need :
3/8" allen socket
beefy screwdriver
wire brush
something to push piston back into caliper (c-clamp, channel locks, pad spreader, etc)
Brake grease
pads (obviously)
rotors (if changing)
brake clean
if changing rotors, grab a hammer and anti-seize too
When you take the wheel off, i stick my screwdriver between the caliper and the backing plate of the outer pad, and pry toward me some. This starts pushing the piston back in the caliper, and lets the pads come off the rotor easier.
Then take the allen socket to the 2 bolts in the rear of the caliper (make sure you are ratcheting in the right direction). they will seem like they are permanently unthreading, after you have loosened them quite a bit, try to pull them straight back, they will get stuck in position very easily, and just turn....but they arent actually threaded in any more.
Remove caliper (with pads attached) (this may take some wiggling)
Remove outer pad by pushing 1 outer corner in towards the piston of the caliper and sliding upward. Repeat with other corner.
With the inner pad still in place, get your tool for pushing the piston back in, and place it against the old pad, and drive the piston back.
if changing rotors, beat piss out of old rotor until it comes off, antisieze around HUB ONLY (no studs),
Take wire brush and clean ALL pad contact surfaces on spindle. both the "wings" on the top that go over the rotor, and the tabs behind (that the caliper bolts go into)
Lube those areas with brake grease
put new rotor on after sraying with brake clean and wiping with clean rag to remove any oil
Put brake grease, or disc brake quite on the backing plate of pads, and place them in the caliper, making sure to be snapped in correctly, and fully.
Place 1 or 2 lug nuts back on, and tighten lightly against rotor, to hold it in position properly.
place caliper with pads back over rotor, making sure not to twist the brake hose
CAREFULLY tighten the caliper bolts back into spindle, make SURE the rotor is straight up, this will help prevent cross threading.
remove lug nuts from rotor
replace wheel
PUMP BRAKES 1/2 PUMP UNTIL YOU GET A FIRM PEDAL BEFORE DRIVING
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, July 11, 2008 2:41 PM
John pretty much covered everything but i just want to add, make sure to support the caliper after removal when your not holding it by using either a bent coat hanger or bungee strap and hanging it from the coil spring or similar, something to support it just so it isn't hanging by the brake line because it is not a good idea to stretch brake lines.
(99 - Sunfire - Red - 2200)(95 - Cavalier z24 - Purple - 2.3 quad four)
