A while back I had installed some new shocks in my car. Well I was testing themout one night and gave it some gas to get around a sharp bend in the road. in doing so I forgot that the car burned oil and I guess I ran the motor dry for a second. I now have a tick in a lifter it sounds like. I dont hear a knock, just a tick. I have straight 30W oil in it but the noise come back after about 2 monutes of driving. I am getting around 50-60psi of oil at start up and 25 at idle. Is there anything I can do to prevent the car from blowing up. I know that I am rebuilding it soon, just did not know if I could get another 6 months out of it? Can I use some gear lube on the motor or STP??
M
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
The car burning oil has nothing to do with running it dry in a corner. Was it low on oil? Did you check the oil? Dang 30w. Wow.
FU Tuning
yeah, dont use lawnmower oil anymore, there's a reason the car calls for 5w30. look for wet spots, dirt deposits, anything strange. pull the starter, see if it's nose is oily. and finally...
DONT DRIVE LIKE AN ASSHAT ON PUBLIC STREETS.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
Your valve guides and seals may be the cause of oil burning.
Being 2 quarts low on a 2.4 and getting on it (corner or no corner) is asking for a spun rod bearing. I'm beting that is what is wrong.
FU Tuning
I am still driving it. The tick goes away when I let off the gas. Its not a rod knock, its a loud tick like a lifter or somthing. I guess now I should start looking into parts for motor.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
FAST2.4 P wrote:I am still driving it. The tick goes away when I let off the gas. Its not a rod knock, its a loud tick like a lifter or somthing. I guess now I should start looking into parts for motor.
Never say never. I have seen many 2.4's with spun bearings. They all sounded a little different. My ex wifes grand am with a 2.4 did not make a noise at idle, only at cruising speeds. You could get into it WOT and soundsed normal. We took it to 3 different people (who work on cars), they all said not rod bearing. After trying many things (including timing chain guides), we pulled the pan no signs of anything, nothing in the oil. Finally pulled the motor out and stripped it down what did we find a spun rod bearing. Even with driving it for 3 and half weeks like this crank only needed polished.
My point is you spun a rod bearing. With what you esrcibe it would make no sense to have a bad lifter, or valve.
FU Tuning
Bagging on a low-oil 2.4L is certain death. Seen it many, many times.... Usually #3 rod bearing.. but just saw a #4 the other day...
yea im in the same boat. spun #3 and have to do a rebuild.
go to importperformanceparts.com and they have a rebuild kit for our engine and its at a pretty damn unbeatable price. comes with everything except new valve assembly, cams, water pump and crank.
if i were you id get a new water pump though. and if youve spun a bearing youre going to need a crank kit also.
z24 - CAI - Magnaflow Cat - PaceSetters
--exhaust and unorthadox pulley soon
The fact that the noise changes with throttle opening tells me that it's something in the bottom end. Anything up top will only vary with engine speed - not load.
If you're trying to run a heavier oil, I still wouldn't use straight 30 weight myself. I've had some success trying to quiet an engine with excessive clearances using 15W40, or 20W50 - but those were older "looser" engines. I would probably stick to either a 10W40 or 15W40 - that 30 is going to be nasty for it to flow when it's not fully warmed up. You're probably causing more damage running that stuff, IMHO.
John