I just switched from stock plugs to Borche(Spelling?) Platinum +2 spark plugs.
And now I have a problem.
I've had the actually plugs in the motor for about 2 weeks.
Ever since I changed them from stock there has been a ever so slight problem while accelerating.
Every so often it would 'pop' and the car would fall back, and then it'd catch and keep going forward.
I was told the gap was off, so I set the gap(I was told .21).
When I first put the plugs in there was a loud knocking sound(sounded like a blown push rod, like in my old motor)
But after running for a little while the noise stopped, I think something fell into the plug hole and burned up.
But now I have a new problem.
There is a slight pinging/thumping sound. it was always there, but now its a little bit louder than before.
And when under power and clutch, the motor sounds like its going to stall.
And you can here the exhaust faint in and out in a set rhythm(you can follow the drops of tone).
Is the motor missing?
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Well I set the gap at .41(correct gap)
It was running great for a while.. then about 4 minutes it started to knock again.
Got home, let it cool off, pulled all the plugs and #3 was smashed in.
Whats going on here?
How does changing the gap in a spark plug cause a cylinder to hit a plug?
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I just pulled out the +2 plugs and put back in the original stock plugs.
And its still knocking....
is it possible that something fell into the plug opening and is stuck inside the cylinder/s?
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Also, this time none of the plugs were pushed back or anything.
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Something else I noticed.
If you let it run, it'll run fine(aside from the knocking sound).
The knocking comes and goes, sometimes quietly, others louder.
It varies in timing, sometimes its rapid back-to-back, other times its slower.
like..
Knock .. .. knock.. .. knock-knock-knock .. knock .. .. .. .. knock-knock .. knock.. ect
Also, after it runs for a while, it'll slow and finally stall out.
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Have u checked ur wires? I know i accidentally pulled a wire apart inside the boot when i changed plugs before and did not know it. Took me a while to figure out that miss.
Does missing really cause a loud knocking sound like something was inside the cylinder?
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anyone else?
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its most likely coincidental, the knocking sounds and the plugs. BUT, bosch plugs are the most expensive pieces of crap you can buy. seriously, junk. as for the noise, do a compression test, check your wires, get a screwdriver and find exactly where its coming from.
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Ok.. maybe this is a dumb queston.
But how do you find the knocking sound with a screwdriver?
Also, earlier this week I pulled drained the AC lines, then pulled the core from in front of the radiator,
And removed all the AC lines except for the ends of the two lines going into the compressor.
I haven't had a chance to remove the compressor yet, could the compressor be locking up or something without any freon in it?
Could it be knocking the timing off or something?
If you leave it running, after a minute or two it'll finally stall of and die.
Like if you dropped the clutch in gear with out giving it gas.
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Well looks like my motor is shot.
I changed the oil.
And it won't even keep running.
Runs very rough, knocks and then finally dies.
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Quote:
Ok.. maybe this is a dumb queston.
But how do you find the knocking sound with a screwdriver?
Its an old trick, put the head of the screwdriver against what you want to listen to and put your ear on the handle. It works like a stethascope(heart hearing thingys that doctors use and are always cold).
Are the metal shavings in the oil? You could also pull a plug and peak inside the cylinder with a flashlight.
I pulled the plugs.
They all have alot of carbon on them, so its burning very, very rich(only ran those plugs for maybe 10-15 minutes total time).
The 4th plug is from the #3 cylinder, which as you can see is/had made contact with the piston(or something inside the cylinder).
#2 plug had a chip on the ceramic around the tip(couldn't get a clean shot of it).
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Also, there was no metal shavings in the oil(that I could see).
But its running even rougher than before now.
If you rev it up, the knocking stops completely but it smokes a little and still runs very rough.
If you let it idle, it dies after a few seconds.
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Bosch plugs are CRAP in our cars. Absolute garbage.
Go to a dealer, buy a set of stock $3 plugs and put them in. It'll probably be just fine.
Yes, those were the stock plugs. I also had a set of autolite Platinum plugs, they did the same thing.
Everyone says its misfiring or somethings not firing at all.
But does a mis-fire cause the metallic knocking sound that comes and goes(which really seems like its from it hitting the spark plug)?
What about the #3 cylinder hitting the plugs?
Would a non-firing chamber cause the cylinder to hit the plug?
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And if you keep it at a higher than idle RPM the knocking stops, but the motor shakes violently and sounds like complete crap(honestly sounds like a weed eater on crack).
But as soon as you let off the gas, it knocks and finally stalls.
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A misfire could cause the knock sound, really rough idle, etc. but I'm not sure what's going on with the contact issue on that plug. Generally speaking the spark plug should have plenty of clearance from the top of your piston (since it doesn't move during the cycle of the engine unlike the valves). Did the Bosch plug of the same cylinder get banged up in the same fashion?
Do you have a CEL on?
It seems funny that you would have a problem with cylinders coming from the same coil pack (the one closer to the block) are you sure you've got the wires in the right spot?
That is a good point., Could the coil pack be bad?
When the other coil pack(1-4) fire, 2-3 raise to high, since #3 doesn't seem to fire at all, and #2 is misfiring, and causing those pistons(esp #3) to contact with the plug/s?
#3 is hit the hardest, which is also the one that has the black marking on the plug wire prong, #2 may be firing, but missing, which is why it only has little damage on it.
Perhaps when the motor is reved up, #2 fires just enough to keep the pistons from hitting the plugs?
Either the coil pack is gone, the prong for #3 cylinder is bad, or maybe the plug wires got damaged when I set the plug gaps?
I know I had the SeaFoam in the oil for longer than it should of been in there(less than 100 miles, changed out for Mobil1 Synthetic).
I just don't see how setting the gap in a spark plug would of suddenly caused a rod or bearing to break.
When the motor was running fine just less than 2 hours before I pulled the plugs to set the gap.
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The check engine light hasn't come on.
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Tomorrow I will post a video up.
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#3 bearing have anything to do with this? I know thats an infamous problem among 2.4's.
Just my $.02
A video will help.
It's not a 2.4.
Its a 2200.
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Well.. I was reading my new haynes manual...
And I always thought it went(from passenger side) 4-3-2-1, the first cylinder being on the drivers side.
But its the other way around, its been like that since I dont know when.
Would that just now effect the engine?
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