Following are instructions for diagnosing whether your power window needs a new switch or a new motor. Also following are instructions for attempting to repair or (if necessary) replace a failed power window switch.
DISCLAIMER: Since I could not find information on how to fix this problem on the Internet (despite seeing many people searching for a solution), I offer these instructions to be helpful, since I have benefited from others who have posted helpful instructions. However, I don't guarantee the accuracy of these instructions nor accept responsibility for your results if you choose to follow these instructions. Personal injury and/or property injury could result from following these instructions. Be careful. And if you don't feel comfortable doing this kind of work, please hire a trained professional.
SIMPLE DIAGNOSIS: Is it a motor failure or a switch failure?
For most people, I think there are only two things that will go wrong with a power window; either the motor burns out (which is common), or the switch fails.
Motor failure symptoms: Usually when the motor fails, the window will still work a little bit. Usually when you push the button, the window will move a little before it stops. Then if you wait maybe 30 seconds and push the button again, the motor will move a little bit and stop. You may also find that if you grab the window and assist the motor that it will work. When the motor fails, you should still be able to hear some sound (like a click or a movement attempt) from the door when you push the switch in either direction. I’ve posted instructions about how to replace the power window motor on this forum at the following link.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=127755&t=127755#127755
Switch failure symptoms: If your car doesn’t exhibit the motor failure symptoms listed above, then it’s probably the switch. When the switch fails, it may work intermittently for a while, or it may just fail. The switch may actually only fail in one direction. If so, when you push the switch in one direction and you’ll hear a click from the door. But then when you push the switch in the other direction, you’ll hear nothing. That’s because the switch is delivering no power to the window. Of course, if you’ve spilled something on the switch and it stops working, then it’s probably the switch.
ATTEMTING TO FIX THE SWITCH: A simple fix worth trying.
Sometimes the switch contacts get dirty, and can be cleaned out with compressed air. (My local Chevy dealer suggested doing this, and it worked for me.) Following are instructions to fix a 1996 2-door, but these instructions should also be somewhat instructive for 4-door models and other years. (Two-door cars have a dual-switch and 4-doors have a quad switch. Of course 4-doors also have additional switches on the rear doors.) To attempt to fix the switch:
1) Remove the switch (and bezel) from the center console by prying it up with a flat-screwdriver at the tab (as shown below). Be sure to note its orientation or put a piece of tape on the front as a reminder.
2) Remove the plug by pushing down on the locking tab with your thumb and pulling loose the plug (as shown below). You may have to wiggle it off.
3) Remove the bezel from the switch by prying it off at the two tabs as shown below.
4) Remove the plastic rocker from the switch by grasping it firmly and pulling it straight up. (The rocker is the part that you touch with your finger when you’re rolling the window up or down.) Again, you should note the orientation before removing it. See picture below of dual-switch with one rocker removed and turned upside down.
5) Now that you’ve removed the rocker, blow compressed air into the outside rim of the hole where the rocker was seated, while simultaneously rocking the switch back and forth. Try doing this from a few different corners of the hole. With any luck, you’ll have removed the dirt that prevented the switch from making an electrical contact.
6) In order to quickly check if you succeeded in repairing the switch, you can reattach the plug (without replacing the whole bezel) to check whether or not you’ve fixed the switch. If so, detach the plug and reverse instructions #1-#4 above. If not, you probably have to replace the switch (as discussed below).
REPLACING THE SWITCH:
New switches are available from your local dealer or online parts store. As of May 2008, switches for 1995-1999 2-doors (part #: 22652692) are about $100 (with tax) from dealers or about $65 (with shipping) from online stores. Check to make sure you have the correct part number for your model-year and body style. To replace the switch, follow steps #1-3 above, replace the switch and reverse the instructions to replace it.
Step #1: Removing the bezel from the center console.
Step #2: Removing the plug.
Step #3: Removing the bezel from the switch.
Step #4: Bezel & switch with one rocker removed (shown upside down).
Author's addendum: If blowing air into your switch doesn't fix the switch, you can try to disassemble the switch and fix it by manually cleaning the contacts. This worked for me when air alone didn't. Here's how you do it:
1) In step 4 above, remove both rockers. You may have to pry them off with a screwdriver.
2) Insert a small screwdriver, into the bottom of the switch in order to remove the off-white cover shown in the upper left corner of the following photo. You'll see the off-white tabs that you need to release.
3) Insert a small screwdriver into the bottom of the switch and release the upper four white tabs, while pushing on the rocker sockets in order to push the switch (lower left of photo) out of its black cover (upper right of photo).
4) Slowly and gently slip your fingernail between the clear-plastic rocker sockets and the white bearing in order to remove the clear-plastic rocker sockets. There will be loose parts underneath so do this very slowly and carefully so that the parts don't go flying.
5) Remove and clean the removable metal contact (which is shown on the lower right of the photo where the screwdriver is pointing).
6) Clean the built-in copper contact at the center-point, and at the non-blackened end.
7) Re-assemble the switch (but don't reinsert the switch into the black cover yet). Make sure that the switch clicks nicely in both directions when you rock it back and forth. If not, disassemble and try again.
8) Without reassembling the switch yet, plug it into your car to see if it works. (Don't forget to turn the ignition key to enable the windows to work.) If it works, reassemble everything. If not, try again or buy a new switch.
Dissassembled switch:
Thanks, just what I needed. A little piece broke off where the bottom attaches to the switch and jammed. Button was stuck on so got a little smoked, but still works.
beautiful write-up thank you
umm... I just pull the switches out and connect or jump the terminals to see if the motor is good, and if nothing happens, I check the wires. and if they are good, I unplug the motor, and replug the harness into a known good motor and see if it works, and if it does, I replace the motor.
Thank you for this post! I had just replaced both motors in my '04 Cavalier LS 2 door, but only a couple weeks after the driver side window went down and wouldn't go back up! I followed your steps using only a flathead screwdriver to get the switch out and a can of duster to blow the dirt out of the rockers and BOOM! Window works again. Probably saved me the hundred bucks for a new one!
