I know it may seem kind of a stupid question but what kind of mileages is everyone replacing their plugs at? I'm not sure if the ecotec is a maintenace free til 100k type thing besides basic oil changes and what not or if there's a specific schedule out there. I've got just over 40k on the clock now.
Don't just change them. Pull all of them and look at them. If they look good, keep using them. If the gap has gotten bigger than spec due to wear, regap it and keep using them. If they are bad, that's when you should change them. In general, I'd say check the plugs every 10k, or if you're getting a misfire. At 40k they should still be in great shape. No need to waste money on new plugs unless it makes you feel better.
ck03bluefire wrote:I know it may seem kind of a stupid question but what kind of mileages is everyone replacing their plugs at? I'm not sure if the ecotec is a maintenace free til 100k type thing besides basic oil changes and what not or if there's a specific schedule out there. I've got just over 40k on the clock now.
ck03bluefire;
I just changed plugs in my 2004 Pontiac Sunfire, with the 2.2L Ecotec at 75,500 miles.
I agree with Rich that 100K miles is too long to wait. That was just too optimistic on GM’s part.
But - There is no reason to check the plugs every 10K miles, especially below 50K miles on the odometer. With today’s engine management systems, the spark plugs last considerably longer than ever before.
If you want to be proactive, you can check the plugs every 20K miles after 50K has rolled on your odometer. I found my OEM Delco Iridium plugs to be a little worn looking at 75,500 miles. After changing the plugs with new Delco 41-105 Iridium, the idle is definitely smoother!
Some thoughts on the plug replacement:
- You don’t want to pull the plugs too often because you have to pull the Ignition Coil Housing each time to check the plugs. I could get 5 plugs out of my LS1 V-8 Firebird in the time it took to unhook the cruise control brackets and remove the Ignition Coil Housing & 4 plugs on the Ecotec.
- The GM shop manual sez not to use anti-seize on the plugs, “to avoid over-torquing.”
I say B-llsh-t!
I had to use some
VERY LIGHT impact wrench action to free the OEM plugs, and threads were
squeaking as the plugs were removed. I feared some galling could have been starting on the factory plugs. That is just
Too Scary when dealing with an aluminum head!
{
YES - the engine was cold when I started!!}
- So I used a small spot of anti-seize on the new threads . . . good professional anti-seize
doesn’t change the torque value anyway. I recommend premium quality copper anti-seize to prevent seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist. Permatex sells such a product.
-
NEVER start spark plugs into the head with a power tool.
ALWAYS start threading by hand to avoid cross-threading!
- Always follow the GM torque limits on plugs in aluminum heads.
Good Luck!
changed them at 30k, along with the air and fuel filter
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
