Stareted tonight, car will run even after key is turned to off andlock postion-have to kill engine with clutch. Has anyone had this problem, I am guessing ign switch? fues that are supposed to be hot in Run, Bulb Test and Strat poitions-ERLS, PCM/IGN, F/P Inj, IGN are hot all the time, and the CLS/PCM fuse that is supposed to be hot in Off, Run, Bulb Test and Start is hot in Run and Start only-from looks of schematic in my Haynes that shutting off power to the ign and fuel pump when the key is turned to off is not happening in my car.
Has anyone had this happen? I am thinking Ign switch, or (hope not) a short in the arness somewhere.
96 sunfire convertible, 2.4L, 5 spd
Thanks
1st off, do you have any aftermarket equipment.....remote start, alarm, or turbo timer?
Thanks for the response, no aftermarket equipment at all, radio is even still stock. Am going to pull IGN swith tonight and go from there. Thanks
OK, pulled ign switch and compared against new one-no difference with ohmeter. Now even with the switch removed entirly there is poer at the fuses mentioned above-retithe schmatic is wrong or there is a short in the wiring or PCM. Does anyone have a DETAILED schematic of the IGN switch and primary poer feed from battery through fuseblocks? Will be much appreciated
not sure how different the diy.alldatapro.com is from a hayes /chilton manual
only help is to start tracing
More info-it looks as if the PCM/IGN fuse has 12V on it all the time on the "downstream" side as long as the PCM fuse(10A in engine compartment) is installed, that backfeeds thru the fuse panel to power things with the key off. Pulling PCM/IGN will kill the engine, as well as kill the turn signals that now operate with the key off also. So it would seem that the power is feeding into the PCM via the "battery" terminal that is hot all the time(thru the PCM fuse), and backout thru the "ign" terminal that goes to the PCM/IGN fuse. i don't see anything on my schmatic connected to this circuit, so either a short in the wiring or an internal short in the PCM-will investigate further, not sure which I'm hoping for.
Any input welcome, I'll keep you posted on outcome
OK is solved first suspect was IGN switch, found replacement and pulled out old one, ohmed side by side no difference. Then poked around and determined had power in a number of places that shouldn't with key off...even with ign switch totolly removed. Isolated down to one circuit in fuse box that was backfeeding many others-fuse ran straight to PCM-"powertrain control module" or ECU or "computer". And power on the "downstream" side of fuse died when pulled fuse for the main feed to PCM, that is hot all the time. Also had about 1.5 A steady state drain on battery, maybe explaining prematue rundown of battery from time to time.
Was finally able to find pin-outs for PCM, and then removed fender skirt and headlight to get access to it....pulled connectors and short went away-the 2 circuits taht were shorted were 1 pin away from each other, and the pin had been misaligned in the removableve(clear) housing cover so was able to see problem, and then carefully bent pin and re-attache connector to PCM-problem solved.
Firmly convinced if taken to shop would have bought Ign switch(50 bucks) and PCM(140 plus reflash fee to custome program EEprom-guy at auto parts store saidhe would so for 80 bucks-hundreads cheaper than dealer or ind. shop.
