Got the clutch changed, eventually I couldn't shift it into gear so I took it back and got them to bleed the clutch (would have done it myself but didn't have the right size wrench) They didn't do the whole "hose on the end and put the other end in a cup of brake fluid" thing, they just used a socket to turn the valve while someone depressed the clutch. Anyways, clutch felt great after that and she was shifting fine with the engagment point much higher up the pedal instead of being right next to the floor. BUT just a few days later the engagement point is getting closer and closer to the floor and I don't have that much pressure in the clutch, as in the first few inches not having any pressure at all.
Myquestions are>..
1. By not putting the hose on the end of the valve and submerging it in fluid while bleeding the clutch, will that allow air to be suck back into the system?
2. About how many times after you change your clutch does it have to be bleed before it will finally get to a normal setting? This is the second time and it's fixing to go back and get a third cause I'm losing pressure again.
First time took about two weeks to lose all its pressure and not allow me to shift, took it back to be bleed and now it's only been a couple of days and I'm having trouble again....
Please help, lol.
It sounds like to me that your complaining that your clutch engauges close to the floor. Thats the way its suppose to be.
the fact that bleeding the system fixes the clutch operation means there is an hydraulic leak in the circuit.The usual culprits are the clutch slave cylinder or the master cylinder or a long shot would be a leaking line or bleed nipple.If the clutch assembly has just been replaced including a new slave cylinder (integal with release bearing) then you should inspect the clutch master cylinder where the pushrod from the pedal joins that piece at the firewall inside the car.If there is a hint of dampness in that area it means where fluid leaks out ,air will also be drawn in and cause a mushy pedal and clutch action loss. If you have a new slave cylinder then possibly a tired master cylinder internal seal or small external leak at the same spot means the master must be changed (approx.$300).Good luck.
Read the thread title tinkles, I slowly loose pressure until it gets to the point of not being able to put it into gear at all. One symptom is that as the pressure starts to go, the engagement point gets closer and closer to the floor until it gets so low that it wont disengage the clutch anymore....... only thing I'm complaining about is that I spent the money to fix one problem and ended up with another as it seems. Unfortunetly thats what owning a car is about....
To Mr. Hamilton, thanks for the great response. The slave was replaced and as you suggested I'm suspecting the master having a leak somewhere. Once it's daylight I'll do some investigating .......
You or someone else change it? Take that S*** back and tell them that
check the hydraulic system, you more likely than not have a leak.
I have the same problem.. I'm just too lazy to fix it (replacing the entire hydraulic system in one shot)
if it gets mushy, just keep bleeding it until you can find the exact problem. but there is air getting in there somehow.
No I live in an apartment with the head office lady living in my building, so I basically can't even change my oil without getting b!tched at for it. Otherwise I would've tried to tackle this project on my own. I took it to a shop (friend of a friend type deal for a great price) and had it done there. He knows what's going on and I'm headed there again tomorrow to put it on the lift so we can bleed it again and see what else may be going on.
1> Can anyone confirm that you HAVE TO use the "hose on the end of the valve with the other end submerged" technique otherwise you'll get air in the system when bleeding? I've been told by several people that you don't really have to do this and that it's only really done just to prevent spillage of brakefluid everywhere, but I would think that it's necessary to prevent air from re-entering.
2>What the hell size is the fitting on the bleed valve! I've heard 1/4 but mine doesn't fit snug for some reason. Valve reverse thread or not?
Thank you!
1) Nope. That's mostly for one-man ops.
2) I heard 1/4 as well, are you sure it hasn't been cross-threaded?
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
tampaGT wrote: only thing I'm complaining about is that I spent the money to fix one problem and ended up with another as it seems. Unfortunetly thats what owning a car is about....
No thats what happens when you take it to @!#$ty mechanics. I know, thats the reason i do all my own work and never let my local dip@!#$s touch my car. Any good mechanic will fix it right the 1st time.
And for not completely understanding your thread, I was working my ass off between work, fixing my car, and cutting wood. I was tired and sore.
