Well, my brilliant idea tonight was to use Advance Auto parts Master hub puller set to remove my front drive shafts. In the kit is supplied a box which attaches to the end of a slide hammer and spot to attach to your CV shaft with the end nut. I had my doubts about it which i should have used better judgement and not done this. ( However they are drive shafts i got from them under a lifetime warranty so they will be getting these back and me getting a new pair) So i gave the slide weight a nice thrust backwards and it ended up yanking the half shaft right out of its socket leaving the CV shaft still in my transmission. Nice right? Selling a part that only breaks your Cv shafts...
Now, does anyone know the proper way of remove drive shafts besides a pry bar? I don't think this is the correct way because i've done it this way before out of my 4t40e, i ended up with 2 shafts. One with a female end and one with a male end from the passenger side of the transmission. But when i did the same method to my eco 4t40e, i did not get a male portion out of the passenger side. Leave me with 2 drive shafts with female ends?
Can anyone confirm the proper way to remove them?
thanks..
or does anyone know where to get those tools shown?
found that same end at autozone for 10 bucks, and the slide hammer from advance fits them. We'll see how it works in a little bit.
Never needed them.
Basically, I've just detached them from everything at the hub end, grammed the inner cv joint, pulled, and twistes back and forth for awhile and they just popped out. if you have 2 people, it works easter--one pulling the shaft, the other pulling and turning the ineer CV joint.
Any questions on swapping the CV's let me know, I've done quite a few of them.
Goodbye Callisto & Skaši, Hello Ishara:
2022 Kia Stinger GT2 AWD
The only thing every single person from every single walk of life on earth can truly say
they have in common is that their country is run by a bunch of fargin iceholes.
We always use a tuning fork. Works great!!!!!
FU Tuning
So, if you have done this often, what approximate mileage do these babies break at? Or how much abuse before they do approximately? I know when I had my Civic it took a week of carrying over 100 phone books 150 miles per day to make them break, and that was at 130,000 miles! I haven't over loaded the Cavalier like so, so I don't know if it will die just from normal driving abuse in the next 40,000 miles or so, or if for the first time I have bought this car I can finally say something on the car is like a rock...
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We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
On my car, specifically:
The first one was an OEM shaft that i snapped at the dragstrip (metal defect) the actualsplied part that fits into the hub snapped. looking at the carbon nodlues in the metal, it was clear that this was an abnormal defect, as has been said before, a 15.6 car should not snap an axle. However, i think whell-hop contributed to it.
I simply replaced *just* the driver's side with a standard rebuilt axle that you can get from autozone. That one almost immediately started leaking crease from the outboard boot seal, but amazingly never let water in--the joint was clean when pulled it.
That one, and the factory passenger's side, lasted me, though on and off dragging and general driiving, until about....80k miles. I replaced them with DSS stage 1 axles. expensive as hell, but they turned out a bit lighter than stockers.
Technically, I've never had a joint break--at least on my Sunfire.
I would say this, assuming normal wear and tear as long as the boot doen't break or leak you should be good to go. Thus, check yyour boots and joints, if they seem stiffere than usual, i'd recommend changing.
Cody: what I would do is if you didn't get the right parts, take a picture of what came out of your car, and give some specs--like for the male one, how long the male part with the splines is, thickness of the male connector, and spline count, and ask Advance or wherever you procure them from to let you know who their supplier is, then contact the supplier with the proper information on it and ask for a part reference.
I know when i had to change the borken axle first time, i orderd from Schucks AND autozone the "2000 Sunfire GT driver's CV axle--manual" and they sent me the one for an automatic WITHOUT the exciter ring. After sending the supplier pics (and forgive me for not knowing, this was about 5 years ago), it was determined that I would need 1999 manual axles (apparently the getrag and isuzu tranny change didn't change the axle connection).
Goodbye Callisto & Skaši, Hello Ishara:
2022 Kia Stinger GT2 AWD
The only thing every single person from every single walk of life on earth can truly say
they have in common is that their country is run by a bunch of fargin iceholes.
I killed my stockers with being lowered on dropzone springs and blown struts. ( i had no idea what i was doing in 2004) thus when i joined the .org) The angle of rotation was too harsh and bounced waaay to much. Other it depends on your climate and if your boots get torn somehow. I am doing a motor swap and need to get the motor out. Last time i yanked mine on a lift and now its in the garage at home. But the results of that little tool from Auto Zone.... For $10, its worth its weight in gold because you don't tear the seals and i only needed one tap from the slide hammer to pop either side out now....
pic for those who are visual learners like me....
yea i jsut used teh tire iron form teh trunk to get between the housing and the shaft, plus i pull on the shaft itself. takes some force but it will eventually pop off the clip.
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
The tools in your picture are J-tools I work in the dealership and i can tell you they are expensive just check with the dealer give the those j numbers ,but i was having a problem with the axle seals on my getrag and the jtool with my discount was $64. So i can only imagine what the cv joint one cost. Im pretty sure those j tools are made by otc so check there site to.
I found that U-shaped slide hammer adaptor at Autozone for $10. Man, did i work like a charm and I was also able to get the male portion i had stuck in my eco tranny out tonight as well with this tool over the pry bar method. No torn seals or anything. I am going to pick up a slide hammer for harbor freight and return this one with the rental tool kit to advance auto parts.
I just didn't feel like breaking things.
i used a pry bar and it was a bad experience. needless to say i wont be using 1 again.
