ok well i have not been on here for a very long time.

Well here is my problem
I just replaced a head, head gasket set, timing chain and gears on my 96 cavalier 2.2 ohv engine.
Well it won''t run.
Did the compression check and is as follows
#1-0psi
#2-60psi
#3-60psi
#4-0psi
I have done all this before on my old sunfire and no problems i am wondering if i didnt get the timing chain and gears on right would this cause that??? i am 100% positive i did the head and everything else correct i am a bit iffy about the timing set. could some one give me some insight on this??? Thanks

Wrong forum, but yeah either valves are open when they shouldn't be or you have a serious head gasket issue.


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was your distributor and wires in the correct firing order? if its equipped with that stuff i'm a little off on that year engine

sorry about it being in the wrong forum.

No distributor and yes the wires are in the correct order. i just think i am going to tear her back down and start over. it is such a pain working on the timing chain with the head on the car and i am sure that may be my problem but i guess we will see. if anyone else has any other options feel free to let me know.

Even if your cam timing is way off... all your cylinders should be showing some compression because it's almost imposible that the pistons wouln't ever be moving up with the valves closed if even for a second...... if the head gasket is in there good.... it almost has to be a valvetrain issue..... I would take the valve cover off.. and watch the rockers close when someone else turns over the engine.

Quote:

Even if your cam timing is way off... all your cylinders should be showing some compression because it's almost imposible that the pistons wouln't ever be moving up with the valves closed if even for a second...... if the head gasket is in there good.... it almost has to be a valvetrain issue..... I would take the valve cover off.. and watch the rockers close when someone else turns over the engine.

x2 Sounds like you need to retime your motor.


DiamlerChrysler Certified Technician
ASE Certified Technician
Option D Racing Member

well i did check to see if the valves and everything was working before i put the valve cover back on, everything seemed good. i really am not sure what is going on here. i have never had any problems like this before so there for i am confused.

ok i got her tore back down and the marks did not line up. So here is my next question. With the head off, when you line up the marks how do you know it's on a compression stroke??? i really don't want to get this back together and than have to tear back into it for the third time. i know i didn't have to remove the head again but i did anyways and i have a new headgasket and bolts. I did cause i wanted to check a few other things also which checked out good. So again the question is how do you know if it's a compression stroke with out the head being on???

Does no one have any info???? This makes me sad Someone has to have some know how on this

I just rebuilt a 96 myself., including a new camshaft.
-Both chain gear sprockets are keyed to ensure they are fit on correctly.
-The chain tensioner has 2 tab marks on it that are used for timing.-
-Each gear has a mark on it used for timing.
-It actually does not matter about the #1 compression stroke when timing, as this is determined by cam position, relative to crank position.
-When #1 piston is at TDC, the crank gear mark should line up with the lower tab on the tensioner (compression and exhaust).
-The cam gear is twice the diameter of the crank gear, and thus rotates at 1/2 the revolutions. This determines your compression or exhaust stroke.
-When you align the cam gear timing mark with the upper tensioner tab, the cam is positioned for the #1 compression (#4 exhaust).
-Thus it takes 2 revolutions of the crank gear passing the timing tab, in order for the cam gear timing mark to come back to alignment. Once for compression and again for exhaust.

You need to make sure that on each 2nd revolution that the timing marks all line up.
You need to make sure that all the lifters seated all the way onto the cam and the anti rotation flats are correctly aligned.
You need to make sure the anti rotation brackets are both seated correctly and fully.
You need to make sure the push rods seated fully into the lifter recess.
You need to make sure that all the lifters, push rods, rockers and brackets, if reused from the original build, are in the same locations.
You need to make sure the push rods are correctly aligned through the guides in the head.
You need to make sure the rockers arms are seated correctly on the push rods and over the valves.
You need to make sure the rocker arm balls are fitting correctly into the rocker arms.
Make sure the tensioners 2 bolts are in the correct locations - one normal head, and one low clearance head so as not to interfere with chain movement.

If the timing marks never realign correctly as you hand crank the engine, then it is definitely set wrong. Make sure when you set the timing, that the tensioner lock out pin has been removed. i.e the chain has full tension on it.

You certainly have some major problem, as even the two cylinders you have compression on, are way too low. If your timing marks are not aligning at all any more, then certainly it was not set right to start with. Set the timing with the tensioner giving normal tension (lock pin out), and with the valve spring tension released off the cam (rockers removed) so they don't tend to rotate the camshaft. You normally need to fiddle a couple of times getting the chain and gears on, while keeping the timing marks lined up. At least that is what I found. Once you think you have it, rotate the engine several times by hand and watch the timing marks. Every 2nd rev they should line up perfectly - if not, try again.

The PCM knows when #1 is on compression (as opposed to exhaust) to set ignition, by way of the cam position sensor. It determines advance by way crank position sensor.

Double check your ignition leads - as the soils are, as you must know by now) very hard to see when the engine is installed.
Cylinder 1 is nearest the timing chain, leaving #4 nearest the battery.
Coils on the back have the 2/3 coil on top, and if looking at it from lying under the car looking forward at it - cyl 2 on the top left and #2 lower to the right.
Then the 1/4 coil is below and to the right, with the #1 cyl on the upper left, and #4 being the lowest and to the right.
2 /
3/
/ 1
/ 4

Like I said - these are soooo easy to mix up because they are so hard to see once the engine is in the car. Even when I have tape marked them, I have still ended up with then crossed, only to have to unplug them all and start again.

You're right - this is all much easier with the engine out of the car.

Good luck.

Well i will try all this tomarrow and see if it helps. i still don't understand not getting any compression. I know the valves must still open causing this but i know the rings are not bad cause the car ran before i did all this but with 180,000 miles and a blown headgasket and cracked head i figured while i was in there to change the timing set. Thank you for your help and i hope your instructions work. tho i have pretty much done it to the t with what you are saying besides the two revs i never removed the lifters or anti roll bracket so i assuming those are still in the correct placement. i did however replace the pushrods cause the guy that helped me remove the head got them mixed up and dropped a few. again thank you for your help and i hope it works

well i tried everything said to do and still same thing. i checked and rechecked than double double checked and everything checked out correct. i have no idea where to go from here.