Well tuning is finally going to happen this up coming friday after a few set backs (not to do with the cars performance) just other personal ones... But i was talking to the guy who does my tuning about how i was getting what i think is abnormal amounts of oil pooling in my charged pipes and in my filter. I have the gm supercharger blow by adapter) So he asked me to do a compression test on my car and these are the numbers i got
Drivers Side Passenger Side
Dry test: 210psi 211psi 212psi 195psi
Wet test: 300psi 290psi 240psi 284psi
do these numbers seem reasonable?? they don't seem all bad to me and i cant figure out where else i would be getting all this oil pooling in my charge pipes from.. i thought maybe it could be the turbo but when i took it off the shaft has 0 play in it (as its still pretty new) and if I am correct if it was the turbo it would be coming out my exhaust...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
try posting in the boost forum
I have never done a wet test before, but I have done numerous dry tests on my previous motor. It has 110K on it, and I was ranging between 180-195 across all four cylinders. I haven't done a compression test on my newly built motor, so I'm not sure how much higher it would be. I would be somewhat worried about the last cylinder with 195 though. That is out of the range of the other cylinders. I believe a 5% difference is acceptable, however 195 is more than 5% difference. That could account for some blow-by.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
use some seafoam.. it will clean up your piston rings a bit.. hopefully restore some of your lost compression.. did it on my cav and it made a huge differance at 30k
and i hope your not pushing your car when its cold...........................
"Z24 Dustbunny"
Seafoam does do an excellent job at cleaning, but its not going to fix blow-by from a bad piston ring.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
i will fix up a gummed up piston ring
"Z24 Dustbunny"
A gummed up piston ring isn't going to cause that cylinder to lose compression.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Plus, in all likelihood, all the pistons would be gummed up equally which doesn't account for the difference in one cylinder.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
ya im kind of worried about the last one at 195psi.... and no i hardly push it when its cold....at very least i let it warm up half way up to the 90 degree marker..as im sure the engine is warm enough when its in that range..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
sea foam is great! i had bad hesitation at 104k and ran some sea foam and it help a lot!
2004 Cavalier, 2.2 ecotec, 5spd getrag
do you ever notice that the ones who talk the loudest have the least to talk about?
Something is wrong with your test. Your wet and dry numbers are not proportional at all. I'd do a few dry test and average the numbers.
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
Solid Snake wrote:Something is wrong with your test. Your wet and dry numbers are not proportional at all. I'd do a few dry test and average the numbers.
What's wrong with his test? A wet test will only show you if it's the piston rings or the valve seals that are causing a cylinder to be down. Just because the results don't follow the same pattern as the dry test doesn't mean the test is wrong.
A couple of things:
-do the compression test on a warm engine
-make sure you pull the fuse for the fuel pump
-hold the throttle wide open when cranking over
Otherwise your dry test gives results that are all within 10%, which is good, and the wet test shows the one cylinder out by 20%, which could indicate a bad valve seal on cyl. #3 (in order from the left). I'd make sure you were doing the test correctly as per my suggestions above, and retest before I'd freak out about that one cylinder, as it showed fine on the dry test.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
190 and above seems like the norm for a LD9. Mine were 208-195.....and 160 some.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Ian Brydon wrote:Solid Snake wrote:Something is wrong with your test. Your wet and dry numbers are not proportional at all. I'd do a few dry test and average the numbers.
What's wrong with his test? A wet test will only show you if it's the piston rings or the valve seals that are causing a cylinder to be down. Just because the results don't follow the same pattern as the dry test doesn't mean the test is wrong.
A couple of things:
-do the compression test on a warm engine
-make sure you pull the fuse for the fuel pump
-hold the throttle wide open when cranking over
Otherwise your dry test gives results that are all within 10%, which is good, and the wet test shows the one cylinder out by 20%, which could indicate a bad valve seal on cyl. #3 (in order from the left). I'd make sure you were doing the test correctly as per my suggestions above, and retest before I'd freak out about that one cylinder, as it showed fine on the dry test.
thank you... ill try your way if i get time before tuning... and what about this sea foam every one is talking about...do you suggest it at all?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Seafoam will clean the engine out nicely, but its not going to fix a bad piston ring or anything like that. Unless the engine is super old and hasn't had the oil changed regularly, it shouldn't be that dirty. Everyone thinks it's some kind of miracle cure for everything, but it's not. Just does a good job at cleaning.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Luke Heier wrote:Seafoam will clean the engine out nicely, but its not going to fix a bad piston ring or anything like that. Unless the engine is super old and hasn't had the oil changed regularly, it shouldn't be that dirty. Everyone thinks it's some kind of miracle cure for everything, but it's not. Just does a good job at cleaning.
Yup, I used to run it every spring, it gets rid of any deposits in the combustion chamber that may have caused "hot spots" for detonation, and any buildup in the intake tract, but it won't fix things that are actually worn or broken. It's not a bad idea before tuning though.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
Luke Heier wrote:Seafoam will clean the engine out nicely, but its not going to fix a bad piston ring or anything like that. Unless the engine is super old and hasn't had the oil changed regularly, it shouldn't be that dirty. Everyone thinks it's some kind of miracle cure for everything, but it's not. Just does a good job at cleaning.
ok so then it wont do much for me... the engine only has 70,000kms and i have run alcohol injection for a while which i have seen first hand how well it cleans the engine out as well as help performance... and it gets its regular 5000km synthetic oil change
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
If you are running synthetic and have been spraying alky, it will definitely be clean. No need for Seafoam.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Luke Heier wrote:If you are running synthetic and have been spraying alky, it will definitely be clean. No need for Seafoam.
yea thats kinda what i thought... I am guessing from the numbers and such its just the rings in the one cyl. are warn a bit more then the others... so I am hopping that its in good enough shape to hold 8-9psi (boost) or 250hp max (which ever comes first) which i plan to get it up to after friday's tuning.. I made 240 with 7.5psi so I am hopping i can hit the 250whp with 8-9psi
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Awesome :-) You still twin charged?
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Luke Heier wrote:Awesome :-) You still twin charged?
yep
and runs so smooth
its my winter/daily driver... but its in its finished state now... maybe small things here and there but i got a 02 WS6 with a Twin turbo 403 LS2 as my new toy
250hp isnt enough.. i need in the 650-700hp
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Josh F wrote:Luke Heier wrote:If you are running synthetic and have been spraying alky, it will definitely be clean. No need for Seafoam.
yea thats kinda what i thought... I am guessing from the numbers and such its just the rings in the one cyl. are warn a bit more then the others... so I am hopping that its in good enough shape to hold 8-9psi (boost) or 250hp max (which ever comes first) which i plan to get it up to after friday's tuning.. I made 240 with 7.5psi so I am hopping i can hit the 250whp with 8-9psi
The dry test looked fine, and the wet test would indicate (if anything, I'd seriously redo the test just for piece of mind) that a valve seal, not a piston ring is on it's way out. The wet test works by sealing the piston rings with oil, so if there's still a problem, the rings are ruled out, leaving valve seals, chipped piston (too much for the oil to seal), or a blown head gasket as the culprits. FWIW, boost can help seal a worn piston ring, lol.
You should post pics of the LS2 twin turbo, sounds badass!
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
lol boost sealing a worn ring? im not calling you a lier.. just wondering how that works?... yea if i get time today im going to re-do it all
yea ill post pictures for sure.. right now she is in storage for the winter so ill have to get some when i get it out... we just have way to many cars at our place to keep it here all year
which sucks as i cant play with it and add things here and there during the winter
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Josh F wrote:lol boost sealing a worn ring? im not calling you a lier.. just wondering how that works?... yea if i get time today im going to re-do it all
yea ill post pictures for sure.. right now she is in storage for the winter so ill have to get some when i get it out... we just have way to many cars at our place to keep it here all year which sucks as i cant play with it and add things here and there during the winter
The extra cylinder pressure from boost CAN force the rings to make a better seal against the cylinder wall, it was a joke, lol.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
