Loud POP! when starting. Please help - Maintenance and Repair Forum
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I have a 2005 Sunfire 2.2 Ecotec with recently installed Tsudo Headers. Ever since I installed the headers I get a very loud POP! coming from the engine when I start the car. I have checked the header bolts and everything seems to tightened correctly. I have also noticed that the car with make this popping sound if I am sitting in traffic and I accelerate very rapidly.
Has anyone else run into theis problem?
Could this be because the header collector is so close to the frame?(I noticed it only has a quarter inch or so clearance) I also thought it may be something to do with the motor mounts (Idid have to unmount the engine to install the headers)
I'd say tighten your lower mount. Does it pop when you first start out in reverse too?
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
if its not the exhaust check your spark plugs, my car did the same thing and my plugs were bad, hasn't done it since may just be a coincidence that it started after you put the header on
It does not pop when I put it in reverse (or I have not noticed it yet).
I have discovered today that it makes the sound when the car is on a level surface or more so when the front is pointed up hill. I have not noticed it popping when I start it and the front is pointed down hill.
Any further suggestions would be appreciated.
Can you feel it "pop" or just hear it. I have the rk sport header and mine hits off the steering line that runs on top of the rack. When i put poly mounts in , it helped alot. I also put a couple washers under the top motor mount to raise it about an 1/8 of an inch
I can actually feel the "pop" so it very well may be the headers hitting something. Where did you get the Poly mounts? If it is the headers hitting the rack or lines dod you think it will cause serious damage to them?
I'd try holding the brake, alternating between Drive and Reverse, and giving it some gas each time. This will reproduce engine torque movement and should reveal if the pop is cause by contact in the engine bay. I was able to use this technique to diagnose a clearance problem I had with an aftermarket strut brace bar -- it looked fine at rest, but I'd get a metallic "pop/clunk" whenever I pulled away from a stop with any finesse.
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Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
turbo tech racing sells them. i would get the top insert and dog bone.
also make sure that whoever did the exhaust made use of the factory hanger right behind the subframe (the shop that did mine left it off)
Mine did quite a bit of rubbing and nothing happened. At the worst it would brake your power steering line, but it wont happen overnight.
or u can just put the car in park, pop the hood and hit the throttle urself to see if the engine is moving back and fourth.. it would have to be pretty damn bad mount to pop just when u start it
J body mounts are horrible from the factory. brand new you can open the hood, hit the throttle , and watch the engine move significantly. personally i think its the first mod you should do.
very simple, you need engine mounts. without them, you risk cracking your header.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
they are all good. I would just find the cheapest ones.
I have been checking all of the posts on installing the poly motor mounts and I'm not sure I want to swap a "popping" sound that happens two or three times while I'm driving with a constant vibration that everyone is reporting with the poly engine mounts.
If anyone has further suggestion please let me know.
I didn't have any vibration with my lower mount other than from my exhaust.
Should I just go with the lower mounts only? I really dont want any sort of vibration other than the normal type.
I dont know about all these people with "unbearable" vibrations that ive read about also.
yes it vibrates more than stock but i barely notice it. I'm sure its better than rplacing the header or or steering line.
suck it up and get BOTH motor mounts....getting one or the other will not help you.
you always open up a can of worms when you start modifying any car
Has anyone tried to have the downpipe dent or shaped to allow more clearance for the frame brace and steering line?
I have a really good Custom Exhaust technician in my area and I had this idea floating around as a possible fix. Not sure if it if feasable but it may work, what do you think?
Im not sure about the Tsudo but my RK header is the actual piece thats hitting the line not the down pipe
Turbo Tech Racing has awesome mounts
Much better the rksport in my opinion
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