Hey everyone,
I've got a '99 2.2 Sunfire with about 85,000 KMs that I'm about to smash into pieces. Here's the scenario in detail:
1) I start the car
2) 1-3 minutes after running at idle, the car dies
"
the car dies" defined is: the motor cuts out smoothly without a sputter or clunk and all power stays on, including the dash lights
3) the car's dash then lights up as though it would/should when the key is in the run position
4) I then disconnect the battery for around 10 minutes
5) Then, I reconnect the battery, and if I'm lucky, the car will turn over
(If the car
does not turn over, it will sit there and crank, and power is present, but, it just won't catch and turn over.)
6) The entire process repeats again from step 1
I've checked the following:
Fuel pump relay and fuse: must be working, or the car wouldn't turn over when it does
Fuel pump: when last audibly checked, it was priming
All fuse panel and fuse block fuses: all are in tact
All sensors: I have not tested these yet, but, they are all connected and not loose
Vacuum leaks: I don't hear any, but that doesn't mean they don't exist
Starter: just put a new one in
In addition:
-I'm getting no DTC codes/check engine lights.
-About a month ago, a code would intermittently appear for an 02 sensor error, but it had been off permanently for quite some time now
-The "anti-theft" light never appears
So this is where I'm at. I think I'm going to switch out the ignition switch, as maybe there's a loose connection or bad contact there causing the ignition power to die out. Other than that, I think I'm stumped. It seems like a pretty specific/consistent problem, with the motor cutting out in the same time frame after it starts, and with all the same circumstances during each instance. With that said, if
anybody has
any ideas, I'm here to listen to what you have to say.
Thanks to everyone for their time.
Chad
Fuel filter--Fuel Pressure regulator-can you check the fuel pressure?
If you take the vacuum line off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator, is there fuel present, indicating the Diaphragm has failed?
Alont
Possible the fuel pump is going bad, causing it to overheat and shutdown which is why it'll run a few minutes then die. I don't know an easy way to check that except process of elimination from other fuel related-checks, making this the last possibility. The ignition switch is likely not the culprit, or it would not crank when the key is turned. Might also have the coilpacks and ignition module mounted beneath them checked also. An overheating coil or bad module MIGHT exhibit these symptoms, but I am personally leaning toward an overheating fuel pump.
test the ignition module
it may be getting hot and dying
thats where i would go with it
if not then replace the crank sensor
they commonly fail, very commonly
good luck
-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles
change the fuel filter. I had a toyota truck with simular symptoms. It would go for about ten miles or so then die out. After sitting for a while it would crank up and run for a little longer. Had the fuel filter changed and it fixed the problem. That is a good place to start reference inexpensive and easy to change.
Have you tried the Idle Air Control Valve, that will also allow it to stall out.
alont wrote:Fuel filter--Fuel Pressure regulator-can you check the fuel pressure?
If you take the vacuum line off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator, is there fuel present, indicating the Diaphragm has failed?
Alont
Alont,
The fuel filter is maybe 2 months at the most, so that's out. I'm going to check the fuel pressure on Friday though (my day off), and I'll take it from there.
Thanks,
Chad
Greg Z. wrote:Possible the fuel pump is going bad, causing it to overheat and shutdown which is why it'll run a few minutes then die.
Greg Z,
As far as the fuel pump, yeah, right now I'm concentrating on that and the ignition switch (for clarification in this post too, by ignition switch, I mean the actual electrical "ignition switch" where the ignition harness clips into on the left of the steering column, not the key/barrel assembly like the idiots at the parts store around here quote me prices on for new ones...).
Greg Z. wrote:The ignition switch is likely not the culprit, or it would not crank when the key is turned.
Just to offer another point of view here:
On my '97 Jimmy, the ignition switch died, and it still cranked. In fact, that was all the P.O.S. did when there was no contact. The thing for me though that might rule out the ignition switch on the Sunfire, is that on my Jimmy, I could instantly tell when the I.S. wasn't making proper contact because none of the dash lights would illuminate. After figuring this out, I could either sit and wait with the key in the "run" position, as eventually it would kick in and the dash lights would come on, then I could start it fine, or, I could smack the switch/harness with my big-arse screwdriver and "force" it to make contact. However, the Sunfire's dash-wiring interface may be different than the Jimmy, and they may still light even with a messed ignition switch.
I might grab a fuel pump on Friday just to rule that out if my testing gives me no solutions.
Thanks,
Chad
mr wabbit wrote:test the ignition module
it may be getting hot and dying
mr wabbit,
Do you mean the ignition module or ignition switch?
mr wabbit wrote:
if not then replace the crank sensor
they commonly fail, very commonly
I'm going to dig out some parts on Friday, and I'm going to try to nab every sensor that I can in the process.
Thanks,
Chad
sirmeza wrote:Have you tried the Idle Air Control Valve, that will also allow it to stall out.
sirmeza.
That's my mission for Friday. Basically, to grab everything I can think of off a scrap car, including every sensor, and hopefully the IAC.
Thanks,
Chad
