Alright so i got in my car today after I changed all my fluids, spark plugs, GUMOUT fuel cleaner additive, cleaned the air filter and replaced the alternator (my old ones bearing pooped out on me made a horrible sound) anyway so it starts fine and seems to idle fine maybe a little off, but nothing to noticeable, but when i am first gear going from a dead stop and start to push on the accelerator it drops in RPMS by a lot, like i mean a lot to the point where it would like to stall. If i compensate with giving it gas i will start going, and then once it starts going it seems to drive through all other gears just as it should. Although at one point when i was feeling out its stall point with the accelerator, i hit the gas it and it was like the throttle stayed open and it chilled at like 3000 RPM it corrected itself after a second or so. So it took of my intake cleaned up the throttle body, didn't seem to bad. Got it all back together didn't really help much, besides that it hasn't done the throttle type sticking action an di have put at least 20 miles on it. I had made sure to fill up new gas before adding the GUMOUT and i know its not the alternator because it was having this problem before i replaced it.
So took it to advanced, and they checked out the codes and it blew a 105 which is MAP Sensor Circuit Insufficient Activity and the 172 which is Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1. I couldn't see any vacuum hoses that were cracked, but i think i could probably take a better look tomorrow. Any one got any idea what it might be. Also i replaced the O2 sensors in the exhaust, when i did my exhaust like 15,000 miles ago, is it possible the first one burnt out. I believe that Bank 1 is refering to that first O2 sensor although i don't know that much about this. Also isn't that first O2 sensor the one that controls the change in air/fuel mixture that the ECU makes or something like that.
Anyhelp would be really appreciated.Thanks
Chance on the new o2 going out... Yes. Anything electric can go out the minute you plug it up.
However in this case. I would think its the MAP since its the code that got throw out first or something dealing with it. The other code could be a bi-product of the previous problem. Id start with the MAP, IAC, and my other guess, the TPS!
Good luck and hope it helps!
now DIE!
Ok Z-Dizzle, here's what the daignostic charts says to check on the p0105, check your tps sensor, make sure throttle is opening with the sensor, and check the map sensor, it says to make sure there is no vaccum restriction or vaccum leaks on map sensor.
On code p0172, it says to check o2 sensors parameters to make sure they are within specs which is 200-800mv, also in the chart, it says to check for split, or cracked vaccum lines, airfilter dirty, objects blocking throttle body. if not any of those then inspect the evap emissions system, check for excessive fuel in crankcase, test fuel pressure regulator for proper operation, check all injectors for proper function, may have to have a fuel injector balance test done. also according to info i have here at work, it states that an evap cansister that is saturated will cause a rich condition, fuel in vaccum line to fuel pressure regulator indicates bad regulator, the system will go rich if injectors are supplying to much fuel.
hope this helps some.
So just went out on a limb and replace all the vacuum lines connecting from my throttle body and intake manifold. I couldn't see any holes, cuts, abrasions on the old lines, but it sure as hell fixed the problem. Only rang me 5 bucks plus tax. Thanks for all the help. PEace
