well to start with my car wouldnt start for the longest. then i figured out it was the head. but before i figured out it was the head i switched out the cluster with my old one(swapped old one for one with tach.). i thought maybe it was the theft lock stopping me from starting my car. well it wasnt. so i know that when you swap out the cluster you have to start it and then it dies and wait for like 10 to 15 minutes with the key on. it does the same thing after trying to start it like 3 times.
my head was missing a piece of it right by one of the valves. and i had a major head gasket failur. so it wasnt building up enough compression. so i replaced the head. it now starts then shuts off after like 10 seconds.
i dont know what it is now. it seems like the theft lock.
i also put in a pcm from a car from the junk yard but it didnt start so i put my old one back in. this was before i figured out it was the head.
help please
Still sounds like the theft lock system to me. Search for the procedure to reset it. It's more than just starting and restarting you car a few times.
ya the theft lock seems like the problem. ive followed the procedures that are posted in the faq section. i even did a search. the theft light flashes for like 10 seconds then just stays lit up. its starting to drive me crazy.
help please
turn the key to the on position and leave it for 30 minutes in the on position then start the car dont open any doors during this time
Sorry for the thread hackjack but I've a very indenticial problem. I bought a fixer 96 Z24 5sp recently. The engine crank but won't start. Try and replace a couple of things; starter, ICM and PCM. But the car still don't start. I inspect the engine and it doesn't have any broken parts. The previous owner said one day when he warm up the car and then suddenly it just die. After that he won't be able to start it again, just crank. The engine never overheat or anything according to previous owner. Everytime when I test something, it'll start the very first time for less then 5 seconds then die.
I did the following tests:
1) Replace starter and won't start at all. Then I put back the old one.
2) Check for spark on the coil. #1 and #4 has spark but no spark on #2 & #3.
3) Replace ICM. It starts and then die right away and no code set so put back the old one.
4) Test injector voltage. It has 1.5-2v reading so injectors are good.
5) Replace junkyard PCM. Again, it starts and then die right away. But this time a P1629 code set.
6) Clear P1629 code and still don't start. And the THEFT SYSTEM light never flash.
7) Check all spark plugs. It has very strong gas smell and all spark plugs are wet.
8) Dry out all spark plugs, reinstall and try again. Same thing it starts and then die right away and no code set.
I read the GM SPO over and over again. The thing that related to "crank but no start" is ignition component or fuel problem. But since in test 4 & 7 all spark plugs are wet so I assume there's fuel coming from the injectors and fuel pump. My last thing to replace and test will be the coil. But according to test 2, I get spark on #1 & #4. So I don't know how possible the two coils were dead at the same time. Also, from test 6 the THEFT SYSTEM light never flash at all time. So I don't know if the problem is the PASSlock or the IPC fail. The GM SPO mention something about the crank senor. Will that be the problem coz it didn't send signal back to the PCM?
What else I should look into or replace or test? Please help coz I need something to drive.
Anyone??? I really want to get it started.
lock cylinder and its wiring. passlock has a hall effect sensor that creates voltage/"password" to the IPC. if you have a lot of miles the sensor may be worn out. also check all 3 wires for shorts or opens. to save you a lot of pain, see if you cant find a wiring diagram and trouble tree.
eric o wrote:lock cylinder and its wiring. passlock has a hall effect sensor that creates voltage/"password" to the IPC. if you have a lot of miles the sensor may be worn out. also check all 3 wires for shorts or opens. to save you a lot of pain, see if you cant find a wiring diagram and trouble tree.
I've GM SPO service manual so wiring diagram should be no problem. But GM SPO didn't mention PASSlock that much. My car has 83k miles. Please clarify which senor I need to replace and which wires I need to look into? Thanx alot.
You need to locate the source of the problem. Since you said there is no spark in two cylinders, either one coil is faulty or the coil housing which is a cursed part in Z-24īs you may look into that also.Good luck.
I've GM SPO service manual so wiring diagram should be no problem. But GM SPO didn't mention PASSlock that much. My car has 83k miles. Please clarify which senor I need to replace and which wires I need to look into? Thanx alot.
I was talking about the sensor in the lock cylinder. Passlock has a hall effect sensor that is actually built in to the lock cylinder. From the cylinder there are 3 wires B+, B- and sense/ password wire. Try and take the plastic cover off around the columb and see if there are wires attatched to your lock cylinder, trace them to a connector. Makesure that you have B+ and continuity to your ground wire source. now as far as a correct voltage that you will see on the source wire, im not sure because they are all diffrent. Every time i have diagnosed GM body problems i was using a TECH 2... it gives you voltages and can read trouble codes stored. I dont know if that was much help but i hope that helped
Didn't someone also mention there is a single white wire on the cluster that needs to get plugged in also? It is sometimes overlooked since it is not part of the large plug. I think I read that if that wire is forgotten you will also have problems with theft lock. Another simple thing to check.
Quote:
You need to locate the source of the problem. Since you said there is no spark in two cylinders, either one coil is faulty or the coil housing which is a cursed part in Z-24īs you may look into that also.Good luck.
I'm trying to look for the real problem. GM SPO point out two different problem area with "Crank but no start", one is ignition and other is fuel. Now since I've fuel from fuel pump and injector so it almost clear the problem is not about fuel. About the coil, it's number #2 & #3 with no spark. #2 & #3 related to two different coil. So it's either both coils were dead or something else. Is the coil housing is a common fault item?
Quote:
I was talking about the sensor in the lock cylinder. Passlock has a hall effect sensor that is actually built in to the lock cylinder. From the cylinder there are 3 wires B+, B- and sense/ password wire. Try and take the plastic cover off around the columb and see if there are wires attatched to your lock cylinder, trace them to a connector. Makesure that you have B+ and continuity to your ground wire source.
So it's a possibility that the lock cylinder didn't send the signal to the PCM to fire the spark? I read GM SPO PASSlock is to kill the fuel. And according to previous owner, the car was die suddenly when it's warming up. So how possible it'll trip the PASSlock? I guess I get P1629 is bcoz of the junkyard PCM.
Quote:
Didn't someone also mention there is a single white wire on the cluster that needs to get plugged in also? It is sometimes overlooked since it is not part of the large plug. I think I read that if that wire is forgotten you will also have problems with theft lock. Another simple thing to check.
I didn't take off the dash at all so the missing wire in the cluster is no really possible. Maybe 2tyt4u should look into this.
I started the car this morning and again, it started and then dead right away. Right after it start, I step on the gas and it didn't rev at all then die. At some point, I'm not really sure the problem lies on ignition. Cuz everytime when it starts, I step on the gas and it just didn't rev and die. Not sure it's bcoz it didn't get spark to ignition the gas or it just have no gas at all. Did you guy ever have a problem with the crank senor? Should I replace it and try?
