Well, I got the mechanical water temp. and oil pressure gauges in. now I need to know if there is any way to get the electric fan to come on at a lower temp. I would like to keep the coolant temp. around 190-200 degrees max. I have a 180 degree thermostat installed in it also.
Thanks for any help.
search here, in general, for the fan over-ride switch.
HPtuners can do that, otherwise you're looking for some sort of override system, not really sure where to point you for that.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
this would be the way to do it, without HPT:
Wild Weasel's fan override switch
from Wild Weasel's how to site.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:00 AM
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
Thanks for all the help guys, I may go to the override switch, but I am looking at an adjustable temp. sensor that mounts in the rad. to control when the fan comes on. It's made by Flex-A-Lite, not sure if it can be made to work with the stock fan or not, I will try to get in touch with this company this week and see what they say.
Thanks again for the help. Kevin
Most of those "kits" that you can buy will work with the factory fan assuming you bypass all of the normal wiring. It just replaced the factory controls with a relay and a temp sensor. I know there were people who put a 2nd fan in which you could connect to the adj temp part and leave the original fan intact being controlled by the ECM.
FReQ Z wrote:this would be the way to do it, without HPT:
Wild Weasel's fan override switch
from Wild Weasel's how to site.
I had my car wired up that way (pre HPtuners), but forgot to shut the fan off and killed the battery a few times. It's a good fix, but not without it's flaws (user error, lol).
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
Ian Brydon wrote:FReQ Z wrote:this would be the way to do it, without HPT:
Wild Weasel's fan override switch
from Wild Weasel's how to site.
I had my car wired up that way (pre HPtuners), but forgot to shut the fan off and killed the battery a few times. It's a good fix, but not without it's flaws (user error, lol).
yeah, def a potential problem, how about adding a "ON" light of some sort while doing the wiring? or hooking it into the ignition so it cuts out automatically when you shut the car off? im no wiring expert so i couldnt tell how to do it, but im sure either should be possible.
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On another forum, I beleive it was suggested that JC Whitney has an adjustable thermo sender/sensor. Good luck, Dave
Ronin J wrote:
yeah, def a potential problem, how about adding a "ON" light of some sort while doing the wiring? or hooking it into the ignition so it cuts out automatically when you shut the car off? im no wiring expert so i couldnt tell how to do it, but im sure either should be possible.
I had mine wired to a switch that would light up when on, but it still got forgotten a few times. As for your alternate wiring scheme, I mostly used mine to run the fan while the car was off (waiting for the next run at the dragstrip, etc), so it would cool the engine/engine bay while not adding more heat from a running engine, so that's not going to work as well either.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
Ian Brydon wrote:As for your alternate wiring scheme, I mostly used mine to run the fan while the car was off (waiting for the next run at the dragstrip, etc), so it would cool the engine/engine bay while not adding more heat from a running engine, so that's not going to work as well either.
You could always just turn the engine off and then turn the ignition back on without starting the car.
Jackass wrote:Ian Brydon wrote:As for your alternate wiring scheme, I mostly used mine to run the fan while the car was off (waiting for the next run at the dragstrip, etc), so it would cool the engine/engine bay while not adding more heat from a running engine, so that's not going to work as well either.
You could always just turn the engine off and then turn the ignition back on without starting the car.
This is true, but it only took about 15min with the fan on to kill the battery, with all the other accesories powered up as well that time would be lowered, and you'd run your battery dry fairly often at the track I'd think.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
Ronin J wrote:
yeah, def a potential problem, how about adding a "ON" light of some sort while doing the wiring? or hooking it into the ignition so it cuts out automatically when you shut the car off? im no wiring expert so i couldnt tell how to do it, but im sure either should be possible.
I have wired my 2.2 Cav with an extra relay, in parallel to the OEM relay, extra relay operating coil supplied from the Gauges Fuse and then a push/pull switch mounted alongside the Fuse Panel.
I can switch the Fan ON when required, when I switch Ignition OFF this relay is de-energised.
If the coolant is hot the fan will continue to run as per OEM system and switch OFF automatically. If the coolant is at normal temperature the fan does not run.
Alont
I don't mean to bash you, but why would you want to keep your engine temps lower than GM designed? Our engines are designed to run at around 210 for emissions and fuel efficiency reasons. A warmer engine is also less likely to build up sludge and other nasty crap inside it.
You could swapp the thermostat for a 160º
Summit use to sell a Adjustable temp switch. It still allows the use of the factory set-up and it was for GM cars, trucks etc...
FU Tuning
Greg Z. wrote:I don't mean to bash you, but why would you want to keep your engine temps lower than GM designed? Our engines are designed to run at around 210 for emissions and fuel efficiency reasons. A warmer engine is also less likely to build up sludge and other nasty crap inside it.
I would want my engine to run cool,not hot, especially at the track.
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
