Ok, I read all the posts I could find regarding timing chains, a lot of good info. Mine went the other day, and the car has been sitting ever since.
I was driving down the road (96 Cavy 2.2 auto, 135K miles), and the car just quit. No noises, no drama, it just shut down. What are the odds that it DIDN'T ping the valves? And is there any easy way to check that without pulling the head? I pulled the valve cover and nothing moves when I crank the engine (which spins fine and doesn't clatter or anything when I crank it over). My situation is money-less, as I just got back to work, and have a lot of bills to catch up on, but I kinda need my car too. I'm gonna do the work myself, with the help of a few friends, over a couple days after working hours, I imagine.
As for getting the old one out, I read that I can do it without dropping the whole motor out of the car (and if so, a HUGE relief). As I also have to replace my belt tensioner at the same time (it's noisy, so I figure I might as well).
I'd hate to have to pull the motor apart to see if it's gonna bust up when I get the new chain on and buy even more gaskets, but I don't wanna throw 150 bucks at it, only to have to replace the valves/head/whole motor or whatever it may need after breaking. Though the more I think of it, I'll probably have to pull the head to see if the valves got squished.
Also, anyone have a basic parts list as to what else I might need, other than the timing set/cover gasket? I'll only have a few bucks extra cash once, before I have to wait a couple weeks to get more available for the car, so I'm trying to budget everything at once.
Thanks a lot, in advance, for ANY help
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I tell you how to get to the tensioner and all without having to drop the motor. I would tear it apart before I bought any parts. Pull the head and make sure you didn't damage your valves. Replace the timing chain, tensioner, and sprockets. You might also want to drop your oil pan so you can get any shavings that may be cought in there out.
Just a follow-up on this, is the GM timing chain really any better than Melling or Cloyes? I've read a lot of comments on this where people say the GM chain is the only one that lasts. Considering the amount of work involved, i don't want to get chincy on the parts.
Also, the tensioner & sprockets. Again, does it make that much difference?
Has anyone come out with a re-design of the tensioner so it won't end up making that ticking sound?
Jeff E. wrote:Just a follow-up on this, is the GM timing chain really any better than Melling or Cloyes? I've read a lot of comments on this where people say the GM chain is the only one that lasts. Considering the amount of work involved, i don't want to get chincy on the parts.
Also, the tensioner & sprockets. Again, does it make that much difference?
Has anyone come out with a re-design of the tensioner so it won't end up making that ticking sound?
There are two things to keep that ticking sound from occuring. Regular oil changes with quality oil, or an Ecotec. I've got over 100,000 miles on my 2000 Cav with the 2200 engine, and it makes zero ticking noise apart from the damn mis-adjusted Crane roller rocker on #1 cyl. My secret? 4.5 qts of Valvoline Durablend every 3000-3500 miles, and either Wix oil filter (from O'reillys using my sister's employee discount $2.50) or if shes not around, a Purolator L24011 from Pep-boys.
I'm on my third cloyes "tensioner". The chain I replaced once just for fun, but it's the tensioner that keeps going bad. I'd recommend trying the GM tensioner. I know I will next time.
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