Ok, so I spun a rod bearing on my Z24 and have a couple questions. First, should I be able to get access to replace the rod bearings by simply removing my oil pan? Or is this going to be a much bigger job than I thought? I had planned on doing this is a day, I hope that's not too unreasonable...

The next question I had is since I'm going to be replacing all the bearings with new, standard size bearings, is there anything else I should do to the car while I'll have it down like that? Or is this just a get in, replace the bearings, get out kind of job?

Any other advise/thoughts/suggestions or anything like that anyone might have for this job would be appreciated.

Thanks all
-Ryan


15.448 @ 89.7

Well I would make sure that the nothing was bent and/or damage. Also I am sure a little machining will have to be done to clean up the mating surfaces, so I think it is more than a one day job... for sure.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Here is a simple explination. OK, if you got a bearing bad enough taht it spun, what do you think that bearing is going to look like when you take it off? Its going to look like the scratches your girlfriend left on my back last night (joke) haha. Now your crank is going to look exactly like that bearing looks. The crank will need some machining, and undersized bearings will now be needed. You can take your chance, put in the bearings, and hope it lasts the rest of the summer.

Well we got the bearing installed and the car ran fine for about 20 minutes. But once we got it out on the road, the bearing spun out, slowly, again. I talked to a guy at Autozone about the situation, and he said that the way we installed it was wrong, and most likely why the bearing spun again. For lube, we dipped the bearing in oil and then seated it. He said you should never do that, and that instead of oil, you should use installers grease and only grease the inside of the bearing. I talked to the dealer where I got the bearing and they are going to warranty it out free of charge, so do you guys think that it is worth another try on this doing it the way the Autozone guy suggested?


15.448 @ 89.7

leave it to the professionals


Ryan1

Ryan1 wrote:leave it to the professionals

Thanks for the helpful advice...


15.448 @ 89.7

no prob.


Ryan1

Quote:

leave it to the professionals

Best advice of all. The crank is most likely worn and that's why you spun the bearing again. Oil is enough if the engine is NOT dry. Grease? never used greas for the main/rods. I use a special oil that is thicker than 90 weight.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

Ryan, there are comments above that say the crankshaft is probably in worse
shape than the rod bearings...

I agree...

Soft metal of the bearings allows "grit" to imbed...

After millions of revolutions, the harder crankshaft metal gets ground by the
imbedded bearings...

(I've never seen any crankshaft of cast iron (like ours) that didn't need servicing
if the bearings were bad)

if i were you, i would replace the engine and not even fool with it again, thats the cheaper way out.

hey im in the same situation. i just spun a rod bearing lastnite. questions i have how much are a set of rod bearings? and how much for the crank to b machined. i guess just a typical price range cuz every place is different

Alwaysonurgirl247 wrote:hey im in the same situation. i just spun a rod bearing lastnite. questions i have how much are a set of rod bearings? and how much for the crank to b machined. i guess just a typical price range cuz every place is different

Rod bearings (through the dealer) are going to be about $30 per bearing. To have the crank machines, once you take the engine out and then remove the crank, I believe it is going to run you a couple hundred, at least around here I think it would...


15.448 @ 89.7

To turn the crank is not really expensive. They do it for 60-70$ where I go.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

Mfk-223 wrote:To turn the crank is not really expensive. They do it for 60-70$ where I go.

It's the labor to get the crank out, and then put it all together and back in the car again that's going to get expensive. I just spun a bearing in my honda, and I opted to grab a bottom end from the wrecker, and swap it in place of the one with the spun bearing. filled it up and ran for 1/2 hour, changed the oil and filter, ran it for a few days, then changed the oil and filter again, to make sure there was nothing left floating around in the head, etc.

Seeing as spun bearings is about the only thing that kills LD9's, you'll likely have to buy a complete engine, just make sure you get a '00+ so you have the higher compression ratio bottom end.


15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?

Ian Brydon wrote:

Mfk-223 wrote:To turn the crank is not really expensive. They do it for 60-70$ where I go.

It's the labor to get the crank out, and then put it all together and back in the car again that's going to get expensive. I just spun a bearing in my honda, and I opted to grab a bottom end from the wrecker, and swap it in place of the one with the spun bearing. filled it up and ran for 1/2 hour, changed the oil and filter, ran it for a few days, then changed the oil and filter again, to make sure there was nothing left floating around in the head, etc.

Seeing as spun bearings is about the only thing that kills LD9's, you'll likely have to buy a complete engine, just make sure you get a '00+ so you have the higher compression ratio bottom end.

Anywhere you could suggest to look for a new engine? Any sites online perhaps?

-Ryan


15.448 @ 89.7

Ryan, you don't say what engine it is so I'll just put this out there. The LN2 2.2/2200 engine is pushrod design that places oiling priority on the lifters & cam bearing, then the crank. If you have a rod knock then you might be looking at more than just a crank & bearing job w/ oil pump and pick-up (for good measure). And at 80,000-100,000 miles, it's time to replace the timing chain & tensioner for preventative safety's sake.

Go beyond the "bolt-on".

i spun a rod barring in my drive way and was thinking about doing it and go under the car and then quickly desided to take it to a mechanic so the job can be done right