i just need to know what tools/parts i need to replace the head gasket. ive been driving around on a bad one for some time now thinking i was going to get a 2.2 Eco put in but i couldnt find a tranny by the time the guy could do it so im stuck for now with my 2.2. my ex-roomate is a former BMW tech and wants to know if theres anything out of the ordinary he will be doing with my car since hes not familiar with our j bodys.

if someone could write me a quick "how to" on this it would be great.
will i have to drop the engine a little to get to the timing chain?

P.S. a friend is offering me a 2.3 head, just wonderin if it would be worth it to put it on my 96 2.2. and i heard our heads might need machining before replacing a head gasket, is this true?

first, the 2.3 head wont do a damn thing for you, you cant use it, put it out of your mind.

second, if you know what you're doing, you can do a head gasket with just a metric socket set, an normal rachet, a torque bar, a pair of pliers, and possibly a decent sized pair of screwdriver.

third, get yourself a chiltons manual. it will be better than any writeup anyone could provide on here, in a post at least. our heads only need machining if they are warped. this is difficult for the average D.I.Y. home garage to tell, unless you happen to have a machined flat edge tool (looks like a bar, and is purpose built for checking flatness), and a set of gap gaugers (looks like a whole bunch of strips of metal in a little hoop, each one is a machined piece of different thickness). but yeah, but the manual.



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If you got a 2.2L its a pretty easy swap out swap in. I would recommend getting a completely rebuilt cyl head, Even with it machined could have a small crack, Unless you dont mind doing the work over again. Long as you got deep sockets ranging from 8mm to 24mm you should be fine. Like you said youre ex roomate is a tech with bmw, He shouldn't have problem with cavalier cyl head job,

You gonna need these parts though:

1). Remanfacture cyl head.
2). New head bolts kit.
3). HD gasket Felpro should work just fine.
4). Valve cover gasket as well, I am pretty sure they a complete kit package of gaskets with cyl head kit.
5). coolant dexcool. Add a flush kit as well.
6). New Oil / Filter.

Everything, Should be installed back together, Should be done.

so i shouldnt have to worry about taking off the passenger side motor mount, and lowering the motor on a jack like i was told? is there timing involved, i have no idea when it comes to the 2.2 motor out of a 96...???

I would Also reccomend, Using a haynes manual for refferance, I will give you a quick run through whats involved on the tear-down,

1. relief pressure from fuel system
2. Disconnect Battery
3. Remove alternator & bracket Also pwoer steering pump leave the lines attached to the pump, Also use rope or tie wire to hold it in place.
4. Remove the intake manifold ( This is a option U can leave it attached) Remove it after the cyl head is removed.
5. Remove the exhaust manifold.
6. unbolt the belt tensioner.
7.Support engine with a floor jack, Use a block of wood (2x4) on the floor jack underneath the oil pan, Youre gonna need to remove the upper motor mount.
8.There should be an accessory bracket that has to be removed.
9.Also disconnect any remaining wires like hoses fuel and Vacuum lines, from cyl head. (if unsure lable each item with AA /AA & BB/BB I use masking tape with black felt pen for example.
10.Also masking tape with felt pen on plug wires, To insure firing order. ( 1-3-4-2) 2.2L.
11. Remove Valve cover.
12.Then Remove each rocker arms and push rods if equipped.
13. Remove the igintion coil assembly.
14. Now using the new cyl head gasket Grab a spare piece of carboard, Outline the cylinders, And bolt pattern to use as a referance.
Make sure you indicate front & back of the layout.
15.This gets real important details, Dont just crank fast with cyl head bolts, Undo each head bolt 1/4 turns until you can loosen each bolt with youre fingers, ( Threads on cyl head could get stripped).
16. Now its time for cyl head to be removed, Dont pry on the seal where hd meets the H/G, Just have a piece of wood or rubber hammer tap the cyl head, It should break free.
17.Afterwards place the cyl in a clean area ( box or clean shop rag).
18. With a putty scraper just remove the H/G carefully.
19.Make sure the head & block threads are clean, Then place the H/G over the block dowel pins, Also make sure the H/G is installed properly, As the carboard template in column #14.
20.Then install all bolts on cyl head finger tight,
21. This is the tricky part tightening sequence, first bolts that get 1/4 turns are the middle be #1 head bolt & then the outter bolt on the bottom will #2 / Then on the next set of #1 / #2 , left of those it will be outter bolt #3 / inner head bolt #4, Then Next set bolts on the right side of #1 / #2 bolts, Will be Inner #5 / outter bolt #5, Then on left side last bolts inner bolt #8 / outter bolt #7, Far right bolts inner #9 / Outter bolt #10. all bolts are getting 1/4 turns in that sequence. until tight, I would reccomending using a torque wrench or Rent one from Autozone, Ok heres the torque spec's short bolts 43 ft lbs / long bolts 46ft lbs.

22. Once all those bolts are tight, Everything gets installed the same way it was disconnected, Add youre coolant, New oil & filter, Fire the motor up check for leaks, Then Run it for 30-45 mins No leaks she should be good to go.

Good Luck.