I have a 97 sunfire with a 2.4l quad 4. I have exhaust intake and header. Ok this is been happening for a while now and I cant seem to find the problem. When I first start the car up the idle sucks. It does not run very well. Then when I put it in 1st gear and try to start going it will bog, untill I push on the gas so much it will go to around 5 grand and then while holding the gas and releasing the clutch a little at a time it will go. Now It does go away after about 20 sec or if you get the car moving and dont stop at all. Now I did switch out the iacv with one from a working 2.4 and it seemed to fix the problem but I had to return it( it was my sisters). So I bought a brand new one and now it is doing the same thing. Now I did get a code but I cleared it and it went away and has not come back yet, but if it does I will let you know. But Is there a learn procedure that I am supposed to do or is this a common problem. PLease let me know as my clutch is going to blow soon.
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first of all,before someone else reams you.,you have a 2.4L DOHC or twin cam not a quad 4,get yourself a Chiltons manual it has a process for resetting the iac valve and check your fuel filter,plugs,boots,etc: plus the manual is helpful with many things
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15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
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as far as the engine is conserened it says on the motor- 2.4 quad 4
first of all there is no such thing as 2.4 quad4 ..it either says 2.4 twin cam or it says 2.3 quad4 ..simply by telling me the year of the car i can tell which you have...but to address the problem..it sounds like a symptom of a bad 02 sensor...have you changed one lately? how many miles on the car? if you DO change one make sure it is an AC DELCO ONLY! or it will give you that exact problem
Well I did look and its a twin cam. sorry. Anyways i did replace both sensors but I am leaking exhaust out at the midpipe section. Would that do anything. I thought that sensor was only to make sure the cat was working. In that case I do have a test pipe, but did make the o2 sim. So should I try tighting that first and then see?
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Ok guys i can not find this problem and i really could use any help that I can get. I did fix both leaks at the exhaust and it still has a very bad hesitation at start up. When I try to go from initial start up the car shudders,stalls basically dies until i lay the pedal down to the floor. Now after I get it going its fine untill I shut the car off again. What should be the first things I should look for?
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
96 cav wrote:FAST2.4 P wrote:That is for code p-0113 I have code p-0133
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Yeah, 133 is definetely a different number than 113
DTC P0133 HO2S Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1 -- IS what he has
DTC P0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage -- NOT what he has
I'm guessing a bad oxygen sensor?
check your spark plugs
my OHV did the same thing way back in the day when I had a blown headgasket
i bet its leaking when the engine is cool, and when it warms up it seals the leak and runs ok.. check your oil too make sure it isn't getting milky
It has been buring oil like crazy, but I dont know if thats just from cheap oil. As far as the o2 sensors I have replaced both. I did replace the plugs but they might be fowled from having the engine running so rich. i will check everything today.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Unbalanced injectors: One of your injectors may be spraying much less fuel than the other three which will cause unburned O2 to be picked up by the O2 sensor, which will enrich all four cylinders. Unbalanced injectors will cause a drop in fuel economy and power.
Open loop sensors: When the engine is started cold, the ECU can't get a reading from the O2 sensor so it relies on other sensors (IAT/TPS/MAP) to determine how much fuel to inject. If one of these are bad, it could explain the problem. The ECU constantly checks its estimates of how much fuel it should inject against the O2 sensor once it's warmed up. If your car has been running for a while with a bad O2 sensor, it has trained itself against bad data which would explain the rough open loop operation. Try clearing the ECU by unplugging the battery. Also try forcing the car into open loop mode by running with the first O2 sensor unplugged, does it run better or worse?
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
Ok I will try that right now. As far as other engine codes go, I keep getting a crank and cam sensor malfunction, I dont know if this is just because of something else that is wrong or what. I will try diconnectiong it and hopefully it will run better. Thansk for the help man.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
What fixed the problem, running without the O2 sensor or resetting the computer?
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
Does your car have a 1-wire or 4-wire sensor?
One possibility is that the sensor impedance is too low when cold. This will cause the ECU to think the sensor is ready and providing valid (lean) signals when it is not. Is the exposed ceramic on the outside clean?
What that code means is that when the sensor gets old, it doesn't react as quickly to changes in the exhaust mixture and the ECU can detect this. If this happens with a brand new sensor, I'd question its quality.
What brand of sensor did you buy? My '98 2200 had the same exact code your car did, so I installed a 1-wire Bosch sensor (~$22) and it runs perfectly now. You might try a Bosch sensor.
Try starting the car cold without the sensor plugged in, and after about 5 minutes of idling, plug the sensor in. Does it continue to run well? If so, drive it around a little, then turn it off, let it cool and start it with the sensor still plugged in.
If your crank or cam sensors are bad, it could cause the problem as well. The O2 sensor might be reporting correctly, but it doesn't do any good when fuel and spark come at the wrong times. Since you said the car runs fine in open-loop mode, I don't know why the ECU would throw those codes.
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd
OK on the header its a 1 wire sensor and a 4 wire behind where the cat was. On the one wire sensor its got a little thing of white showing is that the ceramic? If so then yes its clean. The brands of both sensors are bosch, both have less than 5k miles on them. I will try that with the sensor as far as plugging it in after the car has been running. And I do have a bad crank and bad cam sensor as that as what the computer is telling me, but I have not seen it come back yet so I am wondering if they were even bad. OK as far as fixing this problem, I will try that test and if it works, then I will try a new crank sensor. But this is really starting to get to me. But yeah man thanks for the help and I will get back to you asap.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
OK I ran the car and drove it for about 5 min with it disconnected and then stoped but did not shut the car off and drove and it ran fine. So then i pulled in to get gas and turned the car off and when I started it back up it ran bad again.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
You're using quality O2 sensors, so I wouldn't worry about them. I'd look at the crank and camshaft sensors. I've never had to replace either on any of my J's so I can't give too much advice on it. Is there any possibility that they're misaligned somehow? If they're off by so many degrees, I can imagine why the engine would run badly.
2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd