Hi guys,
My Cavy 1998 Z24 has been easy to diagnose and repair until now. I've got no heat but that's not what concerns me, it's the fact that the engine won't take it's normal temperature. I've just finished pulling the termostat and it's 100% ok. Now, I've read about clogged heater cores and clogged cooling tubes. All that is nice but I believe if any of those things were the problem, I would have overheating issues on my hands instead of engine too cool problems.
Now the haynes book says the next possible issue avec termostat is the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor but nowhere does it explain how you can test the part.
Is there an easy test that can be done at home for the ECT sensor?
Thanks guys!
SoupMan
- and no, 'Soup' in SoupMan does not stand for Soup Up but for 'Soup' as in Lipton 'Soup'. -
On my '93 2.2 the Coolant temp sensor has:-
1. Pin A Sensor ground (For ECM signal) Black wire
2. Pin B Temp output for ECM to Pin B4 on ECM (Approx 1.5-2.0 Volts, at normal operating temp)
Approx 7280 ohms at +5 deg C, 9420 ohms at 0 deg C, 12300 at -5 deg C and 16180 at -10 deg C
3. Pin C This is the output to the temp Gauge, using the sensor body as the ground return---Resistance here should be 1365 ohms at 40 deg ,94 ohms at 100 deg C and 63 ohms at 140 deg C
If this is any help
Alont
SoupMan
You are sure the system has no air that needs burping
Alont
Alont,
Air that needs burping?
Is there a bleeding on the cooling system? If so first I hear of it.
Usually if the coolant runs low, the light in the daskboard lights up... And when I drained the coolant, there was about 8L which is what I believe to be full.
Can the sensor cause low engine temps?
SoupMan
- and no, 'Soup' in SoupMan does not stand for Soup Up but for 'Soup' as in Lipton 'Soup'. -
Just a thought that if you have air in the coolant it may/can make it's way to the heater core and result in no heat.
I always remove the radiator cap (as well as the reservoir cap and run the engine until it is at operating temp.
You can see there is a movement of coolant, through the radiator cap hole, when the thermostat opens.[This is the shop manual('93 2.2) way to check a thermostat operation. If this test is OK any coolant fault is not the thermostat!]
When this happens if there is air in there it will bubble out of the rad.
When all the bubbles stop, top off the coolant and replace the rad/reservoir caps. Some later j's have a bleed screw/cap on the hose.
You said
Can the sensor cause low engine temps?]
3. Pin C This is the output to the temp Gauge, using the sensor body as the ground return---Resistance here should be 1365 ohms at 40 deg ,94 ohms at 100 deg C and 63 ohms at 140 deg C
If these resistances are out of tolerance THE TEMP GAUGE INDICATION could be low--but it would not CAUSE low engine temps.
This is a link to a shop owner who has dealt with a few cars showing you symptoms, I think:-
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070129231229AAyDOu0
Hope it helps
Alont
Makes sense. I'll put it back together tomorrow and bleed it from the air and then see if I have the same issue. The weather is cold so this is a perfect opportunity.
I'll let you all know the outcome.
SoupMan
- and no, 'Soup' in SoupMan does not stand for Soup Up but for 'Soup' as in Lipton 'Soup'. -
